Alaskan Channing Hopper seal

Alaskan Channing Hopper seal

PostBy: Boomer2298 On: Mon Oct 01, 2012 6:19 pm

Hello,

I'm new here and just purchased a used channing coal stove. My background was in power boilers so I have a basic understanding of coal fired stokers. I was checking the draft with a calibrated magnehelic gauge after cleaning the direct vent blower (which I will be replacing) and the most I could get is -.02" with an empty hopper. I noticed when I pushed down on the hopper the draft picked up to almost -.04".. I then noticed that the seal on the bottom had some daylight coming through. As it appears that two small side bolts are all that hold it in place and it sits on the rope gasket I wonder if this is ok or should be sealed? The weight of the coal will obviously press down but I can't believe this is acceptable. Thoughts or advice ? Great forum by the way.
Boomer2298
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Channing III

Re: Alaskan Channing Hopper seal

PostBy: stokerstove On: Tue Oct 02, 2012 11:16 am

I don't have a Channing but from what you describe my stove is similar. Many years ago I read that the hopper should be sealed w/ furnace cement and I tried it, pretty much just making a mess. I now use a rope gasket fastened w/ gasket adhesive and have no problems. Unless the gasket isn't positioned properly, wrong dia. gasket, or the hopper is deformed, it should seal fine, w/ the weight of the coal in the hopper also helping to seal it. I have been using this method for years with no issues. At the end of each season I totally disassemble the stove, clean it, and inspect all the gaskets.
stokerstove
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kodiak Stokerstove 1

Re: Alaskan Channing Hopper seal

PostBy: Bratkinson On: Sat Oct 13, 2012 6:33 am

From your description, it sounds like a Channing to me.

As far as seeing daylight, you MUST get a new hopper gasket for the thing and install it BEFORE you light it!

This is my 4th season with the Channing and I found that fitting the hopper into the gasket at the top of the stoker is sometimes a bit tricky. After you think you have it seated, try moving it a bit front/back and left/right, all while pressing down slightly. You might feel it 'drop in'. Sometimes I 'hit' it first try, sometimes not, so the wiggle ensures I have a good, tight fit.

I also discovered that my hoppper was at a slight angle to the back of the stove, after inserting the bolts at the top of the hopper and tightening them. I ended up putting 5 or 6 washers on each bolt, between the hopper and stove, to keep it square to the back of the stove. Keeping it square also helps the gasket at the bottom to stay 'tight' as well. My thinking is that if the hopper is slightly angled, there could be air coming in where it shouldn't, and cause a hopper fire.
Bratkinson
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska
Stove/Furnace Model: Channing III

Visit Lehigh Anthracite

Re: Alaskan Channing Hopper seal

PostBy: McGiever On: Sat Oct 13, 2012 9:29 am

Boomer2298 wrote:Hello,

I'm new here and just purchased a used channing coal stove. My background was in power boilers so I have a basic understanding of coal fired stokers. I was checking the draft with a calibrated magnehelic gauge after cleaning the direct vent blower (which I will be replacing) and the most I could get is -.02" with an empty hopper. I noticed when I pushed down on the hopper the draft picked up to almost -.04".. I then noticed that the seal on the bottom had some daylight coming through. As it appears that two small side bolts are all that hold it in place and it sits on the rope gasket I wonder if this is ok or should be sealed? The weight of the coal will obviously press down but I can't believe this is acceptable. Thoughts or advice ? Great forum by the way.



Seeing daylight is not acceptable, but an empty hopper will not give you correct draft reading. :idea:

Coal in hopper is needed to obtain an accurate draft reading...no coal in hopper is a lot of daylight. :!: ;)
McGiever
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: HARMAN MAGNUM
Hand Fed Coal Stove: RADIANT HOME AIR BLAST
Baseburners & Antiques: OUR GLENWOOD 111 BASEBURNER "1908"
Coal Size/Type: PEA / ANTHRACITE, NUT-STOVE / ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump
Stove/Furnace Make: Hydro Heat /Mega Tek

Re: Alaskan Channing Hopper seal

PostBy: Nighthawkgt21 On: Mon Nov 26, 2012 1:28 pm

Hi, I'm new here and I've been having trouble with a slight sulfur smell. I'd like to change my gaskets but the place where I bought my stove wants $170 to change the gaskets. I watched videos and read forums on changing gaskets and am fairly mechanically inclined. The only problem is I can't find anywhere what size and length of gaskets to purchase. Any help would be very much appreciated
Nighthawkgt21
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska channing 3

Re: Alaskan Channing Hopper seal

PostBy: Ed.A On: Mon Nov 26, 2012 6:31 pm

Nighthawkgt21 wrote:Hi, I'm new here and I've been having trouble with a slight sulfur smell. I'd like to change my gaskets but the place where I bought my stove wants $170 to change the gaskets. I watched videos and read forums on changing gaskets and am fairly mechanically inclined. The only problem is I can't find anywhere what size and length of gaskets to purchase. Any help would be very much appreciated


You have a CO detector correct? Pretty sure the Gasket Dia. is 3/8". You can just check with Alaska Factory too.
Ed.A
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing III/ '94 Stoker II
Coal Size/Type: Rice

Re: Alaskan Channing Hopper seal

PostBy: Nighthawkgt21 On: Mon Nov 26, 2012 9:41 pm

Yea, CO detector on every floor of the house. It might just be a flash build up issue. Cleaned it thourghly and seems to have helped. Still interested in gasket sizes and lengths for future use.
Nighthawkgt21
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Alaska channing 3

Visit Lehigh Anthracite

cron