Has anyone painted a Jotul 507?

Has anyone out there painted a Jotul 507 with high temp stove paint? I know it's probably not common or desired to paint them, but the one I have (I got cheap) has a 1/4" water drip mark running right down the front over the horse and everything, water rings, a little rust, and is just plain ugly in its current form. It fires like a champ and is fully functional, but you need beer goggles to think she's pretty. I've tried to find a shop that will re-glaze them, but to no avail. Ceramabryte cleaner did nothing, and I think the marks and wear are permanent abrasions/damage to the clear glazing. Rustoleum high temp enamel is rated up to 1000 degrees. Will it adhere? Anyone ever tried this?

Come on JR--PIX--I know somebody was trying/ doing paint on their jotul--I'm sure they'll jump in---I forget what his method/results were.

I'll take pix tonight and post them! Promise!

I would not recommend it. The markings you describe are beauty marks. They give it charm. That stove is from the 70's. There are not many of them that are pristine. Although one sold recently that was brand new, never used. Someone had it in their basement or garage and never burned it. A forum member bought it.

They are not painted from the factory, they are ...oohhhh, blank brain, what's it called? Oh, Porcelain! It's colored glass. I don't think any hi-temp paint is high enough. I'd bet my bottom dollar it will scorch before long.

My Jotul #3 has some permanent spots on the top from cooking on it durring an ice storm. Close examination reveals crazing (hair line cracks) in the enamel surface. I do not think any paint will adhere to the original surface. If an enamelled stove gets chipped down to cast iron there are touch-up paint from Jotul to paint those spots with. I have used the touch-up paint on mine. So, I suppose you could chip off the stained enamel and touch up the spot with Jotul paint.

I have repainted my plate steel Hitzer with regular black stove paint. That works great.

Here are the pics. Rustoleum makes a high heat clear gloss enamel. It says it's rated for temps up to 2000 degrees. Their regular high heat paint for grills is rated to 1000 degrees, and I've used that before on my cast iron cannon heater. I may get some of this clear enamel and test a spot to see if it might fill in and cover up some of the abrasions in the glazing. I agree chips in porcelain would be best filled in with touch up paint. Has anyone actually tried painting one or part of one and have some horror story to share? I'd hate to be the first!

Hell JR, try a small area--it's not like it's gonna blow up--rough it up a tad & go for it

i would go after the spots with some CLR ...calcium/lime remover first and a scotch brite pad ...see if that makes a cosmetic improvement before painting over the enamel?

Ok, so I cleaned the Jotul from top to bottom with a general painting prep cleaner/degreaser. I didn't go after the rust, maybe next year, and my rust is fairly minimal. I then coated the stove all over with Rustoleum high heat clear gloss spray enamel (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZL ... 03_s00_i00) The stuff is designed for engines (rated to 2000 degrees), but went on just like any old spray laquer. I took the doors off and sprayed them separate. So here are the results...Drum roll please.... FANTASTIC! The white drip line down the front, the rings on the top and the general white abrasion spots all filled in, coated over, or whatever, not sure. They just plain went away. The rust spots are still there of course, but the general ugliness of the worn finish was instantly restored. What a difference!

I've fired the stove at 300-350 degrees now for 2 hours and the enamel appears to be curing nicely. It stinks to high heck, but that's expected (opened all the windows down there). The directions call for stepped heat treating process, but I don't see how it's possible with a stove. That is, it says to run the "engine" for 10 minutes, let it cool, run the engine for 20 minutes, let it cool, and then run it for 30 minutes and let it cool (200, 400, 600 degrees steps basically).

I will post pics tomorrow when I can take pictures with natural light. The camera flash doesn't do the stove any justice. And, I'll report on how the finish looks on second firing. I plan to let it cool over night and then fire it up again tomorrow evening.

I have an ugly as well, someone sanded the top to remove the stains. This might be the ticket for me as well. thanks for posting, Rob ps, I had mine going 900F the other day with the thermometer on the top door. It seemed to be sop.

Good Info. JR. Glad it worked for you. I'll try to remember this.

I had mine going 900F the other day with the thermometer on the top door. It seemed to be sop.

... and that is why the world is full of 507s with buckled plates. Cast iron starts to deform at about 1100F. 450F over the top door is 700F at the base of the steel plates with my IR therm.. I'm thinkin' 600F (over top door) is absolutely the limit for a long life and even that is pushing it. If I need to run anywhere near that for a period I'm breaking out my Hitzer. Don't send a girl to do a mans job especially when this girl is sooo cute.

Jotul 507 manual says 932 f is okey dokey. Yikes! that's pretty darn hot though.

Yes and thx to you I have a copy of that manual but I bet they tested with wood and how did they evaluate, over hours or years? Single cycle or repeated cycle over months? The evidence points to many overheated 507s on anthracite coupled with the laws of common sense. I stand by how I intend to treat mine. the snowman says 600-750F with the odd firing higher - so I am not so far off from an experienced practitioner. He needed to stay very warm and I want to polish that horses little nose for many years to come and stay fairly warm. So far I have to tell you that if I heated it to 900F it would blow me out of the room in my application.