The stove is located in a living space 20x30 with 9ft. ceilling. Stove is at one courner. That courner is aprox. center of home. Other rooms on the first floor are distall of the stoves's location. Today it's 28 degrees with a 20 mph wind. The large room is 73 degrees at a stove's temp 350 degrees with the fan off. The furthest room is 69 degrees. Upstairs via stair landing is a floor vent 16 x 30 from the downstairs 25 ft. From the stove. Upstairs 2 bedrooms are. 70 degrees. I have not used the stove at it peak heating output yet. Still smelling stove oil from the factory. Coal unlike wood can vary the temperature low. Wood make creasoke. The home built in 1885 red brick 1450 sq ft. So far I am please withe this little stove. Agree that the stack is high in temps. I think the wind over the chimney is sucking excess heat out of the stove. Will pick up a Johnson Controls RC barometric damper. George
old thread but worth reviving
you don't need a manual of baro flue pipe damper with a Harman I coal stove, it's internally baffled and will control the fire right down to a simmer at 3/8 turn open on the draft control. If you look inside the stove, in the top inside, there is only a 2" opening across the upper roof, for exhaust smoke to exit. It's like having a manual flue pipe damper closed half way at all times. The smoke goes up, across the top, then DOWN, then out the back horizontally, they up the chimney. Very similar to an old baseheater, etc. system, that's why Harmans cost more and are so EFFICIENT. The draft air control on THAT particular stove is the MOST PRECISE I've seen in 45 years. It's so precise it reminds me of the idle mixture screw on a carburetor. The sweet spot for a Harman I is 3/8 open for minimum low heat, and 3/4 turn open for maximum heat. You don't need all the draft control opening there is in the knob. It turns open 6.5 turns but in 10 years, I've never had mine open more than 3/4 turn on the COLDEST days, when it was 30 below zero outside. At 3/4 turn it is really cranking. If you are burning it in the 1 turn open range, perhaps you are burning it too hot. A good setting is 1/2 turn open and just leave it there, it won't go out ever, if you have a good chimney. 1 bucket of coal a day, is not a lot, that's only 40 lbs. per day, or $4 a day at current NEPA prices of $200/ton. That's only $120 a month and that's saving a ton of money compared to oil, gas, propane, heat pump. The nice thing about the coal stove is, it's cheaper and real heat. Gas and propane heat are heat in name only, the floors in the house will still be cold.
On the subject of draft and dampers, I took the time to actually MEASURE the draft opening on my Harman I where it spends most of its time at 1/2 turn open. The opening is .025" measured with a feeler gauge, all around the knob. The knob is about 3.75" wide. That equates to an air intake area of only .3 square inches, or 3/10 of a square inch- less draft intake area than the size of a POSTAGE STAMP. That's why the Harman I gets such great COAL MILEAGE, and many using that stove can heat all winter with only 2 tons. I've already done it on one ton in a mild winter in NEPA.
There is a tendency to OVER-DRAFT a coal stove to try to get a blast of heat from it like a wood stove. Resist the temptation to fire it like a wood stove. Changes in coal stove draft must be done in increments then wait until the stove gets up to that higher burning rate, it takes some time. A newbie will tend to slam the draft wide open, it then over-fires, then slam the draft closed, then it goes out.
Make small changes in draft and see how it burns. With any knob-type draft, start at 1/2 turn open, from the complete closed position. Go from there.
You will be hard pressed to find a better free standing stove than a modern Harman. The door handles, hinges, latches, stove wall, legs, fan, etc. are all high quality and a lot better than most competing designs. To be quite honest I have never seen a better stove and have owned and fired many.
The new Harmans are also better than the best tall standing vintage stoves such as the baseheaters. The downside of any stove with a huge firepot is, they eat a lot of coal. People that say they can put 4 bags of coal in their stove, 40 lbs. each, are spending more on coal heat than it would cost to heat with gas baseboard. The whole idea should be, use as little coal as possible, to get maximum heat, and burn the longest time.
When in doubt, buy a smaller stove, because small stoves burn less coal by design. The Harman I is a perfect place to start, and most likely will be the only stove you'll ever need. Ignore the claims of "bad service" with Harman, that is laughable, because with a Harman, you won't ever need any service. Mine hasn't needed so much as a nut or bolt in 12 years. All I've ever done was feed it coal, rake it down, and take out the ashes. Once a year I clean the pipe in the back, before starting it. I burn junk mail and old bills, bank statements, etc. in it throughout the year, so paper ashes builds up there. (a coal stove can act as a replacement for a paper shredder)
There's a tendency for neophytes and newbies who live outside the NEPA coal region, to complicate and mystify the idea of burning coal for heat. There's nothing mysterious about it, and it's not rocket science. Just use trial/error and common sense, you'll be ok. If you have trouble controlling a stove, usually its leaking air from somewhere, and getting excess draft.
There's nothing wrong with air whistling into the glass vents in the door, that's what it's supposed to do. If you have a baro damper, it will be whistling into the flue pipe bypass instead. The place to add air is above the fire, to combust any methane gas and get a secondary burn. In high draft chimney conditions, just turn the main draft knob tighter, that's all. Set at 3/8 turn open it won't matter what the chimney draft is doing, the stove won't run away and overfire, because it can't, the draft is set too low and tight to overfire it.