DS Stove Heat

rberq wrote:

LsFarm wrote:... DIY foam kits like a huge 'great stuff' can ...

I heard a guy on the radio this morning say that the individual cans give you much more coverage per dollar than the big foam kits. My problem with the little cans is that the foam comes out like those pressurized cans of whipped cream, so it's very hard to a get neat, smooth layer of foam. Does anybody make a small can that come out more like spray paint?

Nope not that I've seen Bob. The stuff swells like crazy too but thats why it fills in so well I guess. Don't get any on your clothes cause it's never coming off either. DAMHIK.

One other question regarding insulation. I have thick foundation walls, around 18 inches, that my floor joists sit on. Should I insulate this area or leave it open? My only concern with insulating it was would it keep heat from getting in there and create a cold perimeter around the house ?

bucksnort wrote:One other question regarding insulation. I have thick foundation walls, around 18 inches, that my floor joists sit on. Should I insulate this area or leave it open? My only concern with insulating it was would it keep heat from getting in there and create a cold perimeter around the house ?

Doesn't the DS Machine "basement" model have duct work for directing heat up stairs? Foam insulation is good. You wouldn't need to fill in all 18 inches above your basement wall. 2 or 3 inches would do the trick.

I'm not aware of any duct work that can be attached to the #4 model, unless someone knows something I don't?

I did some work insulating under my stairs that lead to the uninsulated second floor, this redirected the heat through the first floor before going upstairs. I also disconnect all of the floor vents from my hot air duct work in hopes that it would help to circulate the heat and both changes seem to have made a significant difference!

bucksnort wrote:I'm not aware of any duct work that can be attached to the #4 model, unless someone knows something I don't?

I did some work insulating under my stairs that lead to the uninsulated second floor, this redirected the heat through the first floor before going upstairs. I also disconnect all of the floor vents from my hot air duct work in hopes that it would help to circulate the heat and both changes seem to have made a significant difference!

Excellent!

I had this plenum made to fit over the top of my #3 dasement stove. I then added a 10 " collar and ran duct work to direct the heat to my 1st floor to a 16"x16" louvered floor vent. I leave basement door open and it works as a cold air return. I was able to maintain 70 degrees easily on my 1st floor. I have a ranch home about 1000sqft.

jpd989 wrote:I had this plenum made to fit over the top of my #3 dasement stove. I then added a 10 " collar and ran duct work to direct the heat to my 1st floor to a 16"x16" louvered floor vent. I leave basement door open and it works as a cold air return. I was able to maintain 70 degrees easily on my 1st floor. I have a ranch home about 1000sqft.

Great to hear a success story like this. Nice work!!!

Box in the rear like the side heat shields...
Capture more heat...
A hood above the stove will capture the heat and allow the use of the hopper feed...

bucksnort wrote:I'm not aware of any duct work that can be attached to the #4 model, unless someone knows something I don't?

I did some work insulating under my stairs that lead to the uninsulated second floor, this redirected the heat through the first floor before going upstairs. I also disconnect all of the floor vents from my hot air duct work in hopes that it would help to circulate the heat and both changes seem to have made a significant difference!

That's why the basement models are called "Basement " models. They have sheet metal surrounds for attaching gravity feed ducts. That's how I read it anyways. Look here http://rtstoves.com/stove8.htm