Tjernlund AD-1 Draft Adjustments

First off, the motor has never shut down on its own from over heating, even on a 15 hour run before running outside air to it.. These are precautionary measures.

SO far I've noticed the motor is slightly cooler, just a judgment made by touch. Also I've noticed the top 2 inches or so of the soup can is warm so I conclude it is also sinking some heat from the motor. I'm sure my efforts are helping, but dunno how much. As long as I'm confident that motor won't quit, I'm happier. But I should just run it for a couple days straight to see for sure..

I'm On Fire wrote:Mine has shut off due to over heating and I've used it quite a bit this winter. How close to the stove do you have yours mounted? The instructions say a minimum of 12" but they recommended 24".

Since there doesn't seem to be any way to edit my post...RICHARD, why is there no edit button on old posts?

Let me make a correction. Mine has NOT shut off due to over heating.

*EDIT*

I made my original post via an Android Smart Phone and it has a habit of auto-correcting words and putting things in the wrong context and if I'm not paying attention...well....mishaps happen.

I shut down today and had my draft inducer running for 4 hours to pull all the dust up the chimney during clean up and the motor was really hot,I couldn't keep my hand on it,being soo hot.

I ran mine for the month of April 24/7 and it never saw temps above 148°. I cleaned tge stove out two weeks ago and only ran the inducer for 10 minutes before I brushed the pipe out. Then I disconnected the pipe took it outside vacuumed it out, disassembled the inducer cleaned it, made a plate to make the hole smallee then LPS-3'd the entire pipe, and inducer impeller.

It's been reassembled and is now sitting on my floor until it's needed next season.

I used my inducer for periods of time towards the end of the season. Usually during the daytime, 12 hours or so at a time. The cooling device I made did help keep it a little cooler. Its posted on the second page of this thread. The motor got warm, but not excessively and never shut down on its own

Lightning wrote:In a meager attempt to keep this motor cool, heres what I've come up with.. Try not to laugh at my resources lol.. I I found that a family sized soup can is exactly the same diameter as the motor. SO, I made a 2 inch slice down the side so it would fit snuggly onto the bottom of the motor. I also made a one inch hole in the bottom of the can. Then, I took a piece of shop vac hose, and siliconed it to the bottom of the can thru the one inch hole. Finally, I ran the other end of the hose thru a hole (where my propane line was ha ha ha) where it could draw in cooler air from outside.

To test the draw of air thru the motor that the little squirrel cage in the motor itself draws, I used my manometer and found that with the motor running fast it drew a .02 Also, my basement has a natural tendency to draw air in it from outside which helps.

I'm hoping that by the motor drawing the cooler air from outside, it will help cool it better, as opposed to it using the warmer ambient air in the basement.

That's pretty ingenious, not sure how I missed this post. If I could make it so it wasn't too ugly I'd consider doing this to my inducer in the living room.

I'm On Fire wrote:That's pretty ingenious, not sure how I missed this post. If I could make it so it wasn't too ugly I'd consider doing this to my inducer in the living room.

Right, lol... Mine is in a dungeon like root cellar so its primeval appearance kinda fits right in

I have a Tjernlund Model SS4 power vent and was wondering if it would work with the WL110?

I'm not sure, I've only got experience with the AD-1. What you'd have to do is take the dial switch apart and see if there is a way to adjust it. The one on the AD-1 is housed in a plastic box that can easily be taken apart.

Northern Maine wrote:I have a Tjernlund Model SS4 power vent and was wondering if it would work with the WL110?

PM member Flyer5 or Matthaus they will know and tell you what is recomended

Ok, I haven't updated this thread in a while.

I had the motor on the draft inducer seize up. So, I bought a new inducer and installed it. I adjusted the stock controller that came with the inducer same as I did the original one. Within three days of installing the new one it too had seized. I thought it was a defective motor and was going to shut-down take it off and return it. But before I did so I wanted to confirm it was the motor or the fact that the cheap switch/controller that came with the unit was causing the problem.

I ended up ordering a KB Electronics KBWC-16K (H9001)AC Fan Motor Control. As linked to in this thread: Fasco Blower Wiring

http://www.amazon.com/KBWC-16K-H9001-Mo ... pd_cp_hi_2

When I got it I first hooked it up to the old draft inducer; the one I originally had, and put power to it. The motor began to immediately spin with the new controller. I then put it on the new inducer that was installed and the motor on that unit too began to turn. The KB Electronics switch is nice as it allows you to also adjust how fast the motor turns with a little potentiometer behind the face plate but it also has circuitry built into it that won't allow the motor to stall from spinning too slow. I'm not sure how this works but I did readjust my motor so it was drawing .07" on the draft gauge but noticed this past week it was too much and I readjusted to .03"* and it is running as smoothly at the lower setting as it was at the high setting.

* - I set the pot to .03" but have it turned up to .04" so that the stove then naturally creates a draft of .05". Without the draft inducer on my draft drops to .01"-.02" even at 500*+.