Thanks man - yeah it worked out good. Hey if you can repair all of those, you could make a killing selling them on eBay.
A successful mission - we've got BUZZ free controls, and no more multi-kick-on b/s with the oil burner. Very happy. Cost me ZILCH - that is mint!! YEAH!!
Was a bit of work for me though, not having the correct equipment for the job. I have no solder sucker and a giant 230W gun!! Made this take MUCH longer than it should have. All told, just under 2.5 hours from start to boiler kick-on. I tried using a stripped 18awg wire to "mop" and "flick" the solder off. Then I tried making a sucker from a little rubber bulb used for batteries - that didn't work so well, so I used it to BLOW the solder off! Was a pain trying to heat all 8 contacts at once to remove the little legs from the board. I jammed a screwdriver under it, and kept twisting while I heated. Eventually that little prick came out! If all this heat didn't kill the board, then anyone out there with the LEAST bit of mechanical know-how will successfully pull this off, especially with the correct equipment!
Here's the abbreviated directions in my own words based upon the information supplied by Little Mikie on the DIY website:
First I had to remove the affected relay, and a little 3/16" round 4.7µ capacitor related to it. This relay is located adjacent to the hot & neutral leads in the lower left hand corner when you orient the board that way. Now with the relay removed, looking from the COMPONENT side (not the solder side) of the board, there will be 6 holes (PADS), then 2 below it, where the legs of the former relay went. Like this, only rotate this little drawing inside the arrows 90°CLOCKWISE so that the "6" are at the top and the "2" are at the bottom: >>> ::: :
Starting at the lower left (the pair by themselves, below the six pattern) is pad 1 .... directly above that in the lower left hand corner of the "6" is pad 2 .... above that is 3 ... and last one on that side is pad 4 ... then ACROSS the TOP toward your right is pad 5 .... and so on down to the very last in the lower right hand corner which is pad 8.
Pad 3: Swinger contact set 1
Pad 4: N.O. contact set 1
Pad 5: N.O. contact set 2
Pad 6: Swinger contact set 2
So now, to install the 2 jumpers:
FOR 120V INPUT:
Jumper 1: From pad 3 to pad 4
Jumper 2: From pad 5 to pad 6
FOR 24V INPUT:
Jumper 1: From pad 2 to pad 3
Jumper 2: From pad 6 to pad 7
Now hook everything all back up and pat yourself on the back!
Some pics of the process ....