Multi Fuels

Re: Multi Fuels

PostBy: rwwsr On: Sun Jan 26, 2014 8:49 pm

dchartt wrote:how many of you guys running these coalguns remove the fan assembly during the season to clean out the air chamber that leads to on top of your fire? reason Im asking is because mine was half full of crap when I had mine tore apart yesterday and its definitely something I will be doing from now on during the winter


With my 260s, on a mild day (or after a feed auger jam) I let the hopper run out and pot run low, then pull the crap (thru port door) into the pot for removal with regular ashing cycle. I do this once a month or so. Made two scrapers from 1/2" emt, one with "V" shape for left and right side and one flat for center. Takes 10 minutes tops, much quicker then removing fan assembly (I unplug fan motor first). I do pull assembly for spring complete clean out.
There is an increase in performance after this quick cleaning.
Randy
rwwsr
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: ahs s260 3
Coal Size/Type: pea

Re: Multi Fuels

PostBy: dchartt On: Mon Jan 27, 2014 12:17 am

There most definitely is an increase in performance i could see it as plain as day today the way it was running...i just flip the switch on the unit 4 bolts n vac out
dchartt
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS 130
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glacier Bay

Re: Multi Fuels

PostBy: McGiever On: Mon Jan 27, 2014 12:56 am

dchartt wrote:closed cell pipe insulation, my theory was the deeper I buried it the more insulation the earth itself would provide, didn't make sense to bury it within the frost line


True, it will be harder to be affected by what temps. are going on up above...but it is in a constant ~52* environment down there aside from whatever that closed cell can slow down being compressed/pinched to near nothing by weight of earth setting around it. Let's hope no water was ever able to seep inside the sch 40 for that would make supply and return the same temp for sure. :|

When you borrow the IR temp reader remember it likes to read a dark surface better than light or reflective...some will use a small shot of flat black paint or black electrical tape on the target area surface.
McGiever
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: HARMAN MAGNUM
Hand Fed Coal Stove: RADIANT HOME AIR BLAST
Baseburners & Antiques: OUR GLENWOOD 111 BASEBURNER "1908"
Coal Size/Type: PEA / ANTHRACITE, NUT-STOVE / ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump
Stove/Furnace Make: Hydro Heat /Mega Tek

Re: Multi Fuels

PostBy: macdabs On: Mon Jan 27, 2014 5:02 pm

If your going to remove your mixing valve I would sweat a thermometer T in both ends to see what you a feeding the house . My AHS 260 has two mixing valves. One is installed on the run feeding the house boiler with 245 ft of insulated pex 24'' below grade. Not counting another 40 ft in the ceiling joist to the boiler room.
The other mixing valve feeds my zone in my in floor heat in the shop. I heat an easy 3000-3500 sq ft at the house and a 3200 sq ft steel building with in floor heat one zone pump . I average maybe 6-8* degree loss from the shop to the house. I also have a 3/4 inch cold water supply in with the two 1" pex feed and return lines. You should be able to feed you lines with 180* with a mixing valve. I have my one set at 180* for the house and the other is 125* for my shop. Not to mention my house is on a hill at 1600 feet elevation .
That S130 should cook the roof off a 2200 sq ft house....
macdabs
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS 260
Coal Size/Type: Pea
Other Heating: Pellet,oil
Stove/Furnace Make: AHS
Stove/Furnace Model: S260

Re: Multi Fuels

PostBy: dchartt On: Sat Feb 01, 2014 9:45 am

my mixing valve is set at the the hottest it will allow which is 180...I have a thermometer T right on the other side of it on my supply line going to the house and it rarely lets anything over 165 through to the house
dchartt
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS 130
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glacier Bay