I Need a Actuator

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Sun. Jul. 27, 2014 3:06 pm

hotblast1357 wrote:
crazy4coal wrote:You could use a Honeywell zone valve motor 24v powered open spring close. You would have to make your own mount. Also if you get a whole zone valve take the 4 screws off the valve body , remove the ball from the arm hook the chain on. If that will work, keep you eyes open for someone putting in a new boiler, sometimes they will throw out all the valves and you can get them for next to nothing or free. Never hurts to have spares.
Could you tell me what I would need to hook this up to a mechanic thermostat? I have one sitting in the basement that I don't use
You would need a 24VAC transformer to power the 24VAC zone valve motor from a 120VAC source. Treat the thermostat as a switch, as that is what it is.


 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Sun. Jul. 27, 2014 3:20 pm

Ok so it goes, 110 v into transformer, and turns it down to 24v, and the thermostat acts as a switch turning it on and off.. The transformer must have a relay correct? Because the thermostat could not handle that kind of volts

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Sun. Jul. 27, 2014 3:39 pm

T'stat turns only the 24V on and off... the x'frmer 120v side remains forever powered up. So no relay. ;)
Last edited by McGiever on Sun. Jul. 27, 2014 3:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Sun. Jul. 27, 2014 3:40 pm

That would be fine, I would probably run like a light switch before it so I could shut transformer off to

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Sun. Jul. 27, 2014 3:41 pm

So the 24v runs through the thermostat?

 
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Post by McGiever » Sun. Jul. 27, 2014 3:50 pm

While you're thinking about electric controls, you might consider replacing that blower snap switch w/ an adjustable fan/limit switch installed in the plenum.
It not only allows user to adjust fan on and off set-points but also provides the High Limit safety to kill "burner power" (actuator) if too high temp. is reached. :idea:

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Sun. Jul. 27, 2014 3:55 pm

I've thought about that to, because mine is factory set at about 150 degrees so it just runs all winter! But having the over temp safety would be nice too


 
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Post by mozz » Sun. Jul. 27, 2014 4:07 pm


 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Sun. Jul. 27, 2014 4:19 pm

Thanks mozz there's a couple on there that are only like 20 bucks! Almost to good to be true

 
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Post by lsayre » Sun. Jul. 27, 2014 4:44 pm

hotblast1357 wrote:So the 24v runs through the thermostat?
Yes

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Sun. Jul. 27, 2014 4:59 pm

Ok so now I just need to decide which actuator to use

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Thu. Jul. 31, 2014 6:37 pm

well here is the actuator, then it mounted to the stove, just a quick bracket to see if it will work, and the lever that I made to hook the chain to, I still have to get the piece's to make the flap, gonna get a piece of 2 inch threaded black pipe to thread into the stove, and a 2 inch rain cap for a exhaust to hook onto the pipe as a flap

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Post by ddahlgren » Fri. Aug. 01, 2014 5:55 am

I think you are going to need more than off and on for choices. If coal is slow to respond I see this overshoot and under shoot endlessly oscillating around the set point. A switch works with oil gas and electric because they respond quickly to a change and can be turned off and on easily. I would think the best way might be to set the main air for a base stove temp to cover the warmest part of the day and then a couple of small ones to change the stove temp if it gets colder as one way. Set one small air valve for a few degrees below the desired set point and one for it. I would think you need something that makes slow changes and waits for the new result. A micro processor based system that takes into account wind and outside temperature to calculate the heat load and base set point and trim the temperature from there. The cost and complexity would be more than most willing to invest though.

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Fri. Aug. 01, 2014 6:12 am

I would think with a "smart" thermostat that compensates for over shoot would help, and I know that everyone says it reacts slow to changes, but I've never witnessed that, mine always shoots right up in temp when adjusting the primary controls, as of right now I have 0 dollars in it so its worth the shot, all I need to buy is the 110-24 v transformer

 
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Post by Lightning » Fri. Aug. 01, 2014 6:23 am

I think he's right... when I was trying a thermostat control, I had a snap switch on the flue pipe. During a call for heat, the snap switch would cut power to the inducer at around 260 degrees so the furnace couldn't over fire. If the call for heat wasn't yet satisfied, the snap switch would close once the pipe cooled to 220 and turn the inducer back on. Once the call for heat was satisfied, the relay cut power to the inducer...

More on that here

Thermostatically Controlled AD-1 Draft Inducer


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