radiant baseheater trial assembly

Re: radiant baseheater trial assembly

PostBy: steamshovel On: Fri Aug 01, 2014 2:08 pm

5 pieces of top casting, after chrome paint dried today

with/without camera flash. not bad for 1.50 a can

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steamshovel
 

Re: radiant baseheater trial assembly

PostBy: wsherrick On: Fri Aug 01, 2014 8:32 pm

The stove is coming along very nicely. It will be really nice with a fire in it.
Here is the place I get my stove mica from. It is high quality and reasonably priced.

http://www.ashevillemica.com/natural-mica-products/stove-mica.html
wsherrick
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Base Heater, Crawford Base Heater
Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford Base Heater, Glenwood, Stanley Argand
Coal Size/Type: Chestnut, Stove Size

Re: radiant baseheater trial assembly

PostBy: steamshovel On: Fri Aug 01, 2014 9:34 pm

thanks for comment and mica source, will check their price
this is not a high dollar award winning resto, but it's a pretty good operator/burner/heater resto, low buck home driveway job.
I could do it up "right" with sandblasting, replating, spray painted with a spray gun, but have other time priorities, this will have to do- it went 100+ years on the original finish, it will go 100 more, the refinish job will probably outlive me. the stove black is siliconized paint, sturdy stuff
steamshovel
 

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Re: radiant baseheater trial assembly

PostBy: steamshovel On: Sat Aug 02, 2014 11:55 am

the painting goes on and is endless. got these done this morning.

still have the magazine halves, 3 sides of stove, 3 more mica retainer grates, and a few small parts to paint, not shown in pics below

the sharp observer will notice the square lid with 2 small holes in it, to attach the base heater passage cone. the ash box slides on over the top of that.

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steamshovel
 

Re: radiant baseheater trial assembly

PostBy: steamshovel On: Sat Aug 02, 2014 1:29 pm

I live the smell of drying stove paint in the morning.... 8-)

got the magazine halves and 2 sides in the mix, after the sun bakes one side, the other side is then painted

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steamshovel
 

Re: radiant baseheater trial assembly

PostBy: DePippo79 On: Sat Aug 02, 2014 2:33 pm

Wow!!!!!!!!!! Great job. Matt
DePippo79
 
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Oak 40, Stanley Argand No. 30, Glenwood Modern Oak 114, Stanley Argand No. 20 missing parts.
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite. Stove and nut size.
Other Heating: Oil hot water.

Re: radiant baseheater trial assembly

PostBy: steamshovel On: Mon Sep 08, 2014 5:34 pm

after a few weeks off I returned to the project, to paint some of the trickier parts, these required some delicate cast welding and I had to make a few pieces to repair them. fortunately I found some scrap vintage sheet cast iron. the small shell like piece goes inside the magazine and directs hot gases ? upward. the other main piece was the ash door frame !! that had a long section completely broken out and missing in the lower left hand section of the door frame. I was able to cut 2 small strips of cast iron sheet, trim them to size, and had an expert weld them in for me. I'm not going to grind the welds completely smooth as the extra material left on the seam will be stronger than ground smooth. this was one of the most damaged areas of the stove.

there is only one other section that needs to be fabricated, a cast iron sheet panel must be fabricated 19" x 19" and welded into the floor frame. and one other minor issue, the draft knob has to be re-attached to the damper slider for the ash door. it was originally welded or swedged on, I'm going to drill/tap it so it can be moved then tightened to hold the setting.

here's the clamshell vent that bolts inside the magazine. those 2 small strips were hand cut with a cutoff wheel, then shaped with a grinder, then welded in. I then ground the piece further to shape it a little better and knock the welds down, but I didn't flush grind the welds. This piece is inside and not seen, I'd rather have it strong and not break, then flush and crack again.
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Re: radiant baseheater trial assembly

PostBy: steamshovel On: Mon Sep 08, 2014 5:42 pm

here's the ashpan door repair. 2 parallel pieces had to be fabbed from sheet, then welded in one behind the other lengthwise, and a groove hand ground in the back to accept the ashpan floor plate. very tricky and time consuming. grind too much and it's ruined. it had to be welded with the door in place to be sure not to build up weld that would impede the door from closing. I think we got it pretty good considering it was blasted to pieces.

this guy can weld cast. it's an art form. he knows where to not weld. often times he stitches weld on one side, then continues the bead on the other side, then continues it again on the front side- because welding it all on one side may pull the piece and crack it again.

very tricky stuff to do.
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Re: radiant baseheater trial assembly

PostBy: steamshovel On: Mon Sep 08, 2014 5:47 pm

you know the old saying with car paint jobs, behind every good painter, is a great buffer

well behind every great welder, is an even better hand grinder. sometimes the hardest part is grinding the welded piece and bead down without ruining it.

the second weld to the right up higher, is a crack in the original casting that was also welded back together

it could not be welded on the backside, as the weld would fill the groove needed to rest the ash pan floor plate in place

very complex repair
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Re: radiant baseheater trial assembly

PostBy: steamshovel On: Mon Sep 08, 2014 5:52 pm

also had one window retainer to have touched up, it had cracks around the bolt holes
quite a few of the window retainers had cracks in this area. a few of them cracked when heating/removing the hardware, but most were already cracked from age or someone changing glass and over tightening them

if you remove that window glass hardware, and it's rotted or stripped, carefully grind it off. don't heat it.
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Re: radiant baseheater trial assembly

PostBy: steamshovel On: Mon Sep 08, 2014 5:54 pm

brush painted the parts and they are ready to go. again, the remaining visible weld is intentional. this is not a show stove, if I do fire it, I want it to stay together.
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Re: radiant baseheater trial assembly

PostBy: steamshovel On: Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:03 am

near the end of repair process now. getting to the difficult repairs that were put off all these months. finally got the front panel/ash pan frame/main draft pieces all fixed up and ready to go. the door frame was welded, painted.
draft control knob was welded/swedged on by factory. upon heating the knob and removing it to disassemble the parts for painting, I had a task to get it re-assembled as there are no threads on the knob or stud.
had to drill out the stud draft slider itself, and also drill the knob, in a drill press to get it straight and true- then tap both with 1/4-20 tap. had to make a bottom tap for the knob threads from a broken tap, by grinding the tap.
then did a trial assembly and put the front trim piece on just to see, it looks good.
very precise assembly procedure, many pieces working together, draft slider attaches to door by hanging in center lug up top, and knob on bottom, that's all that holds the slider vent in place. door hinge pins then slide down into door frame. then trim panel bolts to front of door with 2 nuts/bolts. I'm glad this repair is done and behind me. had the door frame been unrepairable, the stove would be un-useable.
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Re: radiant baseheater trial assembly

PostBy: steamshovel On: Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:08 am

now the arch-nemesis of the stove repair- the baseheater bottom panel. this was all I got with the stove, the rim and that was broken in 2 pieces, missing most of the center panel and most of one side. I was able to make a new rim section from a piece of an old cast iron griddle, and have it welded in, and the other breaks welded along the rim.

now I have to find approx. 18" x 18" cast iron plate to fashion a center section from, and have that welded in

I was able to assemble the entire stove using this baseplate, as the rim is what holds the weight of the stove above, but the baseheater function will not work without this piece repaired, it would only be useable in standard top draft mode, even in that mode the amount of air coming in the bottom would effect the draft in the flue and this section would have to be completely blocked off from the flue to not leak draft excessively.

the original base was made from 1/8" thickness cast iron plate. I may replace it with thicker material for strength and longevity. it may affect the radiating properties but I'd rather have it radiate a few BTU's less and stay together, then radiate more and break again.
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