Can and a Half Glenwood #8

So if I dig back in the posts I find the area of firepot surface for my Glenwood #8 is about 254 cu in. Using the 27 to 1 ratio would the #8 be a natural candidate for a half a can extension. I get about 48 sq ft of radiating area as a possibility. Hmm, I wonder why this has not been done?

coalnewbie wrote:So if I dig back in the posts I find the area of firepot surface for my Glenwood #8 is about 254 cu in. Using the 27 to 1 ratio would the #8 be a natural candidate for a half a can extension. I get about 48 sq ft of radiating area as a possibility. Hmm, I wonder why this has not been done?

Perhaps it was back in the day.

I wonder where you would/could run one today?

coalnewbie wrote:So if I dig back in the posts I find the area of firepot surface for my Glenwood #8 is about 254 cu in. Using the 27 to 1 ratio would the #8 be a natural candidate for a half a can extension. I get about 48 sq ft of radiating area as a possibility. Hmm, I wonder why this has not been done?

It has not been done because excessive heat exchange surface lowers stack temperature too much. Go far enough and if there is still draft condensation of flue gas will occur. I have seen clay tile reduced to dust. The goal is to have adequate flue temp., not reduce it too much. Heat lost up the chimney is a necessity except in a unit designed for it, and then all sorts of other problems appear.

Somewhere on this site there are pics in catalogs of the option of having an extension can on the #6 & #8 when purchased new. I think Chrisbuick posted them.

I am trying got get photo of a Quaker #8. 18" pot the same but apparently a huge stove. Colt has one but has not posted since 2012 and EWF was trying to get one at one time. Methinks an extended #8 would be similar.

Heat lost up the chimney is a necessity except in a unit designed for it, and then all sorts of other problems appear.

Hence the 27:1 guideline.

It would be the biggest on the block ... fame, fortune, top of the board, Cindy Crawford would be calling me for a date.. OK,OK, I'm a little drunk. FF told me to drink to take away my shoulder pain.... ouchy ... phk masonery.

I believe one of the top 10 Rules For Living is: "Thou shalt not covet."
It's a hard one for me sometimes, but; I am aware of the weakness.

I believe one of the top 10 Rules For Living is: "Thou shalt not covet."
It's a hard one for me sometimes, but; I am aware of the weakness

Easy for you to say with a new Crawford stove.

“No one is useless in this world who lightens the burdens of another.”
― Charles Dickens

Are you offering to lighten my burden? Gimme, gimme, gimme that stove. Or then again, perhaps this is all in jest. However, the theoretical concept of a can and a half #8 does genuinely interest me. Would it be more efficient, I guess I doubt that one. Certainly it would be a greater heat radiator. Why are the #6 and #8s so similar in surface area. If I study the William videos, the stack temps are really low already so perhaps there is little more that can be wrung out of the system. Extra heat output - nope, that #8 will blast me out of house and home if turned up whatever the outside temp might be. Is a superbig stove intrusive and ugly? Nope not if the stove is beautiful to look at. My chimney is a fairly good drafter but perhaps low level operation would be compromised a bit. Why do this exercise at all? Tending times like once a day or less -- yeeessss even in the depth of winter. My Jotul 507 at 932* can sure pump out incredible heat but I tire of being a stove mistress.

Have you noticed if you enter a room with a big POH stove you can feel the radiated heat and isn't that cozy? Is it the bigger the better? Can you feel more comfortable at at lower temperature? The baseboard hydronics guys say it's all about temperature, I don't believe it is it's infra red radiation. I have recently been struck by old photos of people huddling around HUGE stoves, presumably barely on. Why this quest? Well I for one feel genuinely warmer in winter with this type of heating. Coal burners often move up in stove sizes but how many move down? Perhaps they know something and I am going to find out this winter.

coalnewbie wrote:Can you feel more comfortable at at lower temperature?

Yes you can. With lots of radiant you will be just as comfortable at a lower air temperature compared to other means. Those hot water baseboards also give off radiant heat and when the circulator stops running you will feel colder very quickly even though the air temperature has not dropped.

Possibly if it had to heat a very large area and was being run a lot harder than you would in a insulated house.

Those hot water baseboards also give off radiant heat and when the circulator stops running you will feel colder very quickly even though the air temperature has not dropped.

BINGO, you are such a smart man. I don't care how insulated you are the wall facing the wind is much colder and therefore does not radiate much infrared heat and you feel cooler. I have measured this many times over the years. If a zone switches off that heat has to be made up somewhere. BIG hydronic iron radiators will be better. In fact they can be sooo good they are nearly as good as a BIG POH stove.

It's like standing near a blazing camp fire on a cold winter day..

Infrared waves are absorbed directly into the skin. Warm air has to transfer it's heat to your skin. In the mean time the warm air directly against your skin balances with your skin temperature..

Radiant heat rules...

OMG, so many smart people around today.

Of course, I also think that is the effect that makes in floor hydronic heating so comfortable but a warmed basement can give the same effect but at a much lower cost. A big POH stove just warms everything in the area and can be so much more interesting to look at. So a can and a half is just a bigger radiator. Now it's make your mind up time, do I ask Wilson to add a half a can to the Glenwood #8???? Crank a Jotul 507 and it can warm a large area but the intense radiant heat from a small area is almost painful. A hardly on giant radiating stove if pretty to look at is very tempting. The camp fire analogy is very interesting and of course demonstrates the effect well. It's chit or get off the pot time. So one poster thought it would not work with a base heater. Why not? I need to ask Wilson.

coalnewbie wrote:OMG, so many smart people around today.

Keep in mind . . . .

Depending on how good the chimney draft is to begin with - there comes a point at which having a stove that can extract so much heat from the flue gases that it slows down the draft and can't produce as much heat. thus slowly choking itself off.

Pull off too heat needed to maintain draft and your into the downward spiral territory of less heat equals weaker draft, . . which equals even less heat, which equals even weaker draft, . . . see where this is going ?

If you know you have a strong drafting chimney, yeah try it. But if the chimney is so-so, it may just screw up the chances of having good heat output from that stove except on the coldest of times (strongest draft conditions).

Many of us old timers who grew up in the country with a hand pumped well know to leave water in the bucket to prime the pump next time water is needed. Same idea for chimneys - gotta leave some heat in to help make heat to take out !

Paul

Hmmm, OK Sunny you talked me out of it, my chimney is only so so....