WL110 Plumbed in...Now on to the Wiring.

Seems like I've wired a bunch of those valves before. They are normally open valves. Power them to shut off flow.

Firematic Thermally-fused Electrical Switch. Apparently you MUST search for the technical name.....Grrrrrrrrr.

FIREMATIC FUSIBLE ELECTRICAL SWITCH - CONTENTS: explanation of the Firematic fusible link electrical power shut-off switch used to turn off electrical power to heating equipment in the event of a fire. What is the "New England Safety Switch", where and why is it installed, who requires it, and who makes it? How does this fusible link power switch work?
OIL LINE SAFETY VALVES, OSVs - separate article on Firematic type fusible link oil line safety valve.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/INNER-TITE-TC-2-Therma ... /202274778 (thermal cap removal style)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-4-in-Square- ... /202312943

I can get a Taco ZVC405 for the same price as the ZVC404. I assume the only difference is that I will get one more zone? Just want to make it will work okay for my application. Might as well get the extra zone for no extra expense, right?

I would, room to grow is always a good thing.

" All your wiring from the firematic should be #14 THHN in EMT or BX." - using anything but Romex is new to me. Opinions on what to use as I wait for my controller? That should be here Tuesday.

Z10396 wrote:" All your wiring from the firematic should be #14 THHN in EMT or BX." - using anything but Romex is new to me. Opinions on what to use as I wait for my controller? That should be here Tuesday.

EMT= electrical metallic tubing...aka Thinwall Conduit.
You can buy a flexible metal conduit packed into a coil and run/strap it between boxes and pull different colored THHN/THWN rated 90*C. Romex outer jacket is not 90*C rated.
For pulling wire into installed EMT or flexible metal conduit, you would use the #14 gage single conductor THHN/THWN (temp rated @ 90*C), you would need black, white and a green, at a minumum.

You also need 2-wire t'stat wire for the 24vac runs.

If you haven't, download the Zone Valve's instructions/wiring and study and understand what is needed.

McGiever wrote:

Z10396 wrote:" All your wiring from the firematic should be #14 THHN in EMT or BX." - using anything but Romex is new to me. Opinions on what to use as I wait for my controller? That should be here Tuesday.

EMT= electrical metallic tubing...aka Thinwall Conduit.
You can buy a flexible metal conduit packed into a coil and run/strap it between boxes and pull different colored THHN/THWN rated 90*C. Romex outer jacket is not 90*C rated.
For pulling wire into installed EMT or flexible metal conduit, you would use the #14 gage single conductor THHN/THWN (temp rated @ 90*C), you would need black, white and a green, at a minumum.

You also need 2-wire t'stat wire for the 24vac runs.

If you haven't, download the Zone Valve's instructions/wiring and study and understand what is needed.

Can I just run Romex inside of conduit?

You may run the romex alone (no conduit) as long as you don't go near the hot boiler or piping, it's not rated for the required 90*C rating. It's all about the heat and the wire's insulation.

Look at the printing on the wire.

McGiever wrote:You may run the romex alone (no conduit) as long as you don't go near the hot boiler or piping, it's not rated for the required 90*C rating. It's all about the heat and the wire's insulation.

Look at the printing on the wire.

I will take a look. I will be near some hot points, perhaps I just put my Romex in to some conduit for these places...I have a ton of Romex.

plumber wrote:First you need to tackle the line voltage wiring:

From the breaker run a line to your firematic. You can use 14/2 Romex for this (only). Out of the firematic tie in your ZVC404, then to your LWCO. Out of the LWCO to a service switch, then to L1 and L2 on the aquastat. All your wiring from (out of) the firematic (and beyond) should be #14 THHN in EMT or BX (metal flex). Remember only the hot gets switched keep a common neutral to L2. You can wire your circulator to C1 and C2.

Z10396 wrote:

McGiever wrote:You may run the romex alone (no conduit) as long as you don't go near the hot boiler or piping, it's not rated for the required 90*C rating. It's all about the heat and the wire's insulation.

Look at the printing on the wire.

I will take a look. I will be near some hot points, perhaps I just put my Romex in to some conduit for these places...I have a ton of Romex.

Romex in pipe does not fix anything as far as temperatures go, it's still Romex, sorry I wasn't clear on that.

But it looks good!

Wondered if the Romex would be protected in the conduit, good to know. Thanks.

The Taco ZVC405 is here. I will pick up the wiring tomorrow.

whistlenut wrote:Firematic Thermally-fused Electrical Switch. Apparently you MUST search for the technical name.....Grrrrrrrrr.

FIREMATIC FUSIBLE ELECTRICAL SWITCH - CONTENTS: explanation of the Firematic fusible link electrical power shut-off switch used to turn off electrical power to heating equipment in the event of a fire. What is the "New England Safety Switch", where and why is it installed, who requires it, and who makes it? How does this fusible link power switch work?
OIL LINE SAFETY VALVES, OSVs - separate article on Firematic type fusible link oil line safety valve.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/INNER-TITE-TC-2-Therma ... /202274778 (thermal cap removal style)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-4-in-Square- ... /202312943

No one carries the firematic in my area, it is not code to have one in NY.

Z10396 wrote:" All your wiring from the firematic should be #14 THHN in EMT or BX." - using anything but Romex is new to me. Opinions on what to use as I wait for my controller? That should be here Tuesday.

So, I only could get #12. Is it going to be too big?