Coal Chubby

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Tue. Sep. 02, 2014 10:24 am

Here are the pictures of my shaker fix as promised. I haven't used it yet but it seems to work well just by testing it. For those of you with Chubby's you know how the hole wears out after hard shaking... :lol: ! The idea was to be able to change out the cap when needed without shutting down the stove. Just trying to tighten up the shaker rod wear. I simply unscrew the shaker rod, replace the worn cap and re-install the shaker rod, voila!

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warminmn
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Junior, Efel Nestor Martin, Riteway 37
Coal Size/Type: nut and stove anthracite, lignite
Other Heating: Wood and wear a wool shirt

Post by warminmn » Tue. Sep. 02, 2014 3:58 pm

Thats pretty slick. Should serve you for years.

 
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stovepipemike
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Post by stovepipemike » Wed. Sep. 03, 2014 7:52 am

Just curious if you pinned or lock nutted the threads on the grate lug side of your quick disconnect system. Nothing worse than to have to wrestle with a fussy hunk of hot metal if the hex coupler comes apart at the wrong end when you need a changeout due to wear. Good idea you have there, it should help others also. Mike

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Wed. Sep. 03, 2014 8:32 am

stovepipemike wrote:Just curious if you pinned or lock nutted the threads on the grate lug side of your quick disconnect system. Nothing worse than to have to wrestle with a fussy hunk of hot metal if the hex coupler comes apart at the wrong end when you need a changeout due to wear. Good idea you have there, it should help others also. Mike
Also, if you file a slight taper to the last few threads on the rod, the rod end will be more self aligning and easier to get it started to screw it back into that coupling nut.

Paul

 
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tcalo
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Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite

Post by tcalo » Wed. Sep. 03, 2014 10:07 am

I welded the barrel nut to the hooked end to prevent it from spinning off. Good idea with filing the end of the threaded rod, thanks.

 
Fiziksgeek
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Post by Fiziksgeek » Mon. Sep. 15, 2014 11:33 am

I got the chubby plumbed in this weekend. I was surprised how big the smoke chamber on the fireplace was....not sure why I was surprised, I have no idea how big smoke chambers typically are...........Anyway, it's about 4.5-5 feet from the damper to where the flue begings. I used 8 feet (4-2'sections) of pipe to get from the stove up into the flue. I know this was somethign the prevous owner didn't do. I have to turn or rotate the stove a little because the flue isn't centered in the chimney, but off to one side. I did as planned, came out of the stove with a T opening to the side for the barometric damper, then a T to make the turn upward with a cap on the botton, then 8' of pipe, ovalized slightly to get it through the damper. Working with the short pipes sections sure was a pain. A 10' pice of flexible would have been a lot easier, oh well. I stuffed around the pipe best I could with some Roxul...why can't they sell this stuff in smaller quantities, I have lots of left overs!

Question: I used some self taping sheet metal screws to connect the pipe together. How do you make the connection betwene the pipe and stove? Do I need mechanical fasteners here? Seems like you would for safety reasons..?

I also picked up 5 bags of nut size Blaschak to try out someday. I placed an order for 2 pallets (2.4 ton) or the nut sized Blaschak also, to be delivered in October.

I'll try to get your guys some pics in the near future.

 
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warminmn
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Coal Size/Type: nut and stove anthracite, lignite
Other Heating: Wood and wear a wool shirt

Post by warminmn » Mon. Sep. 15, 2014 1:30 pm

I drill small 1/4 holes and use a bolt and nut to connect together. im sure screws would work too but I use bolts on that spot. I use 2 bolts at a 90 degree angle to each other. It isnt going anywhere. Mine does touch my manual damper if I turn it in one direction.


 
rberq
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Post by rberq » Mon. Sep. 15, 2014 4:47 pm

Fiziksgeek wrote:Question: I used some self taping sheet metal screws to connect the pipe together. How do you make the connection betwene the pipe and stove?
The flue collar on my stove has small holes for screws, so I insert the stove pipe, drill under-size holes in the pipe through the holes in the collar, then use self-tapping or whatever other suitable screws I find in my miscellany bins.

Since the crimped pipe is slightly tapered, it usually feels like it is not a snug fit after I fasten the screws. So I take some flat woven fiberglass gasket, wrap it around the pipe and tuck it against the flue collar, then put a six-inch-diameter stainless steel clamp around it. Gradually tighten the clamp around the pipe (not around the heavy flue collar) and carefully poke the gasket material in snug with a flat-bladed screwdriver. It gives me an airtight joint at the flue collar, or at least the illusion of one. :P

 
Fiziksgeek
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Post by Fiziksgeek » Mon. Sep. 15, 2014 6:13 pm

The flue collar on my chubby is male (as I would define it), meaning it slides easily into the non-crimped end of the 6" pipe (the pipe is the female side). It has no holes at all, and is a much heavier gauge then the pipe, meaning self taping sheet metal screws may not get through.

I went over to the coal chubby website and read the manual again. It seems to confirm this by specifically saying "With a coal stove the crimped edge of the pipes goes toward the chimney". I have read it over a couple times, and have not yet found any mention of how to connect the piping to the flue collar on the stove itself.

Again, the bad original installation had no mechanical fastener at all, just friction holding it there...

I'll at least do the pipe clamp, sounds like the easiest way to get a good connection.

 
KingCoal
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Post by KingCoal » Mon. Sep. 15, 2014 6:18 pm

rberg,

have you ever tried to install what ever type of fitting you are coming out of the stove with so that the uncrimped end is in the exit collar.

some stoves this is possible and it's a great solid tight fit and others you just can't get it in that way. this also gets the pipe and crimp ends going UP which I always prefer.

i find the DSM collars to be such that the plain end of the pipe fits very well inside.

steve

 
rberq
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1300 with hopper
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Post by rberq » Mon. Sep. 15, 2014 7:08 pm

KingCoal wrote:i find the DSM collars to be such that the plain end of the pipe fits very well inside.
:!: :!: Never even thought to try it, I'm embarrassed to say. :oops: Next time I replace the piping -- probably a year from now -- I will give that a try. I will need either an elbow or one other piece of pipe that has both ends uncrimped, which I assume I can buy somewhere, or manufacture with my tin snips.

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Mon. Sep. 15, 2014 8:14 pm

Do you have the cast iron collar from Larry? Female pipe fits snug onto this collar.

 
Fiziksgeek
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Post by Fiziksgeek » Tue. Sep. 16, 2014 7:59 am

Yes, it must be. It's intergral to the stove..welded on..looks original. The female pipe slides on with no problem, not sure if I would call it snug, but its hard to tell as I am moving the stove to the pipe, not attaching the pipe to the stove. Still feel like it could use a mechanical fastener for safety.
tcalo wrote:Do you have the cast iron collar from Larry? Female pipe fits snug onto this collar.

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Tue. Sep. 16, 2014 8:48 am

Sorry , I was assuming you have a top vent stove. The top vent stoves have a cast iron collar. I believe a female pipe will fit on the rear vent collar, a bit loose though. Don't believe there is much you could do.

 
rberq
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Post by rberq » Tue. Sep. 16, 2014 12:59 pm

Fiziksgeek wrote:Still feel like it could use a mechanical fastener for safety.
I think so too. A big puff-back has to vent somewhere -- it would be too bad if it vented by blowing the pipe off the back of the stove.

If the flue collar is steel it should be easy to drill. Cast iron -- I don't know.


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