Anyone Know WTF Engine This Is? Need Set of Points ...
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It is a Wisconsin. It is a single and the points are not available. You must find some NOS ones or have these resurfaced. I used to drive a 1901 buggy that had a similar engine transplanted in it.
- SMITTY
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AWESOME guys THANKS!! Confirmed a Wisconsin AEN by Dan! Page 63 shows exactly what I have.
Now that that's settled, what do you guys think about this? The Wisconsin p/n is 28-IGW-3028YS. I found these on eBay - NOS Prestolite: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Old-Stock-Prestolite- ... f6&vxp=mtr The part number & looks appear to be close enough!
Looks like they'll work! If not, I'll make 'em. Price is right!
Now that that's settled, what do you guys think about this? The Wisconsin p/n is 28-IGW-3028YS. I found these on eBay - NOS Prestolite: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Old-Stock-Prestolite- ... f6&vxp=mtr The part number & looks appear to be close enough!
Looks like they'll work! If not, I'll make 'em. Price is right!
- SMITTY
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- Other Heating: Oil fired Burnham boiler
Yep - but this one is an oddball - it's got a pretty long reach for one, and the ground point is a threaded stud instead of a slotted steel mount for adjusting. Worst case I suppose I could always drill and tap some holes to eliminate the stud, but the less work, the better.
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Smitty I have a bunch of old Wisconsin engines here, including an AEN but it was picked up for parts for another guys, Both had magnetos instead of distributors.SMITTY wrote:AWESOME guys THANKS!! Confirmed a Wisconsin AEN by Dan! Page 63 shows exactly what I have.
Now that that's settled, what do you guys think about this? The Wisconsin p/n is 28-IGW-3028YS. I found these on eBay - NOS Prestolite: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Old-Stock-Prestolite- ... f6&vxp=mtr The part number & looks appear to be close enough!
Looks like they'll work! If not, I'll make 'em. Price is right!
I have trolled around the net a lot finding parts for them. So I knew where to look to find out what model it is.
I have three TJD twins, a TFD twin and numerous TRA' singles here.
For that price buy two sets so you have a spare.
Another thing to check is to make sure that the points do not have 12VDC flowing to them, they will last a lot longer at lower voltages. If someone replaced the coil with a 12V one it could be frying the points.
Glad I could help.
Dan.
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The manual I linked to shows two different coils and two different starters, I have seen people burn up 6 volt points in old farm tractors running them on a 12V battery before.
Dan.
Dan.
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Hmmmm. One sold in last 24 hours. In this whole big country, you are the only one doing this job right now.
- Sunny Boy
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Not a bad price of NOS points.SMITTY wrote:AWESOME guys THANKS!! Confirmed a Wisconsin AEN by Dan! Page 63 shows exactly what I have.
Now that that's settled, what do you guys think about this? The Wisconsin p/n is 28-IGW-3028YS. I found these on eBay - NOS Prestolite: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Old-Stock-Prestolite- ... f6&vxp=mtr The part number & looks appear to be close enough!
Looks like they'll work! If not, I'll make 'em. Price is right!
You'd have to pay about $19.00 - $20.00 for a set of NAPA 50 Chevy points just to unsolder and use the contact buttons.
Oh, and points are NOT just points. Get the lengths, geometry, direction of rotation, or the spring tension wrong and you'll be chasing your tail trying to figure out why it runs, but it doesn't run well. Then you'll be like many of my customers . . they blame the carburetor !
Paul
- SMITTY
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She lives!
The points had some minor differences, but the overall size and shape was identical. Must've got fingerprints all over them, because I had no spark until I ran a business card through them. Then it lit right off and shot right up to 4 grand! I rigged up a throttle lever off a Husqvarna rototiller to fix that problem. The governor linkage is long gonzo. Must've been one hell of a contraption to make it all the way around and under the carb. Throttle lever was much easier.
Here's a really shitty quality video of it running after I repaired a bunch of hydraulic leaks, & dumped 6 quarts of fluid in:
The points had some minor differences, but the overall size and shape was identical. Must've got fingerprints all over them, because I had no spark until I ran a business card through them. Then it lit right off and shot right up to 4 grand! I rigged up a throttle lever off a Husqvarna rototiller to fix that problem. The governor linkage is long gonzo. Must've been one hell of a contraption to make it all the way around and under the carb. Throttle lever was much easier.
Yeah I was wondering about that - was thinking of throwing some kind of resistor on the positive. I've got a few circuit boards laying around with plenty of them to desolder, but not sure what resistance would work. Coil was getting pretty warm after running several minutes - definitely got to do something. It's 12v battery powered ...Lu47Dan wrote:Another thing to check is to make sure that the points do not have 12VDC flowing to them, they will last a lot longer at lower voltages. If someone replaced the coil with a 12V one it could be frying the points.
Here's a really shitty quality video of it running after I repaired a bunch of hydraulic leaks, & dumped 6 quarts of fluid in:
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- mozz
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How about one of those ballast resistors (spare you had in the glove compartment) from a older Dodge? They used to be mounted on the firewall. You can put a switch, 12v for starting, once running throw the switch to knock the voltage down a bit.
- SMITTY
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- Joined: Sun. Dec. 11, 2005 12:43 pm
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520 Highboy
- Coal Size/Type: Rice / Blaschak anthracite
- Other Heating: Oil fired Burnham boiler
Not a bad idea Mozz! THANKS!
Off to eBay I go ..... unless I have one of those laying around the barn. Don't think I do though. Last one I installed was on a Ford 351 in a ski boat.
Off to eBay I go ..... unless I have one of those laying around the barn. Don't think I do though. Last one I installed was on a Ford 351 in a ski boat.
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Smitty, Napa should have a single ballast resistor, I have to buy one once in a while for my International Super-H.
I used to have the part number on a sticky note here on my monitor, but I must have sorted them out a while back and got rid of it.
In one of the photos in the original post there is a light bulb, they might have been using it as a resistor also. But that could be on the charging circuit.
Glad it worked out for you I hate seeing those engines get scrapped because of a minor problem.
Dan.
I used to have the part number on a sticky note here on my monitor, but I must have sorted them out a while back and got rid of it.
In one of the photos in the original post there is a light bulb, they might have been using it as a resistor also. But that could be on the charging circuit.
Glad it worked out for you I hate seeing those engines get scrapped because of a minor problem.
Dan.
- Sunny Boy
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- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
Here ya go, this should work with any simple breaker point system using a standard 12 v coil. It's for cars from before the days of HEI ignition systems.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDeta ... 0132079930
Paul
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDeta ... 0132079930
Paul