How Would You Vent This?
On my Kast Console 3 the chimney vent comes out of the back and the hopper overhangs the chimney by two inches. I would prefer the stove to not sit in the middle of the room so going straight back is not preferred. I guess my only other option is to come out at a 90* or 45* before going up? My power vent is 6' up in the wall. would a 90* sideways to a clean out "T" followed by another "T" with the Baro up to another 90* into the PV work?
Top vent would have been awesome
Top vent would have been awesome
- freetown fred
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I wish you'd post some pix of the whole area--stove, chimney, back, front, etc. Sounds like ya got way to many angles--the straighter the better--hard to tell from that pix
No baro with a power vent. The power vent is to suck the gasses out of the stove/furnace/boiler/ not through the baro.
Forget the Baro with a power vent. A baro is to help regulate a natural draft in a chimney.
A power vent doesn't care about elbows. Your not depending on a natural draft which could be impeded by angles.
Forget the Baro with a power vent. A baro is to help regulate a natural draft in a chimney.
A power vent doesn't care about elbows. Your not depending on a natural draft which could be impeded by angles.
- michaelanthony
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So I picture a length of pipe approx 6 feet in length, with opposing 90's and a baro at the top and then another 90, or "T"...hmmm well 90's are equal to an addition length of straight pipe (something like 10 feet), but you also have a power vent, I say hook 'er up and see what happens and don't forget your CO detectors and possibly a manometer!
- McGiever
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Anything a 90* can do, can probably be done w/ 2-45*
+45
+45
=90
+45
+45
=90
I would 45* out the exhaust to a T that has the third leg sideways and capped so you can remove the cap and clean that section. Then off the T another 45 (assuming that clears the hopper) to the vertical up the wall to the power vent.
- VigIIPeaBurner
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Rev,blrman07 wrote:No baro with a power vent. The power vent is to suck the gasses out of the stove/furnace/boiler/ not through the baro.
Forget the Baro with a power vent. A baro is to help regulate a natural draft in a chimney.
A power vent doesn't care about elbows. Your not depending on a natural draft which could be impeded by angles.
- Power vent systems can (and should) have a barometric damper incorporated into the chimney pipe late.
- Direct vent systems can not have a barometric damper in the chimney pipe.
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If there will be enough room in back of stove I would come out of stove with a tee. Middle part of tee pointed up 45 degrees and another 45 to clear hopper. End of tee capped to use as clean out. That area will accumulate fly ash.
I have to admit i'm a bit nervous about trying to add different sections of pipe because I must not understand chimney pipe enough. I have looked at home depot and lowes and the selection of parts is thin. Only other suppliers I can think of are the dealers around here and they were quoting me $600+ for a similar setup to what I have here, only in 4" for the pellet. Not even going to list the Harman DVC square price to do this. I have seen a 90* go for anywhere between $15 and $85 for single wall steel.
The sections of pipe look like some have the crimped ends others click together or have straight cut walls, So there are compatibility issues between pipe manufacturers.
And finally it looks like I will be setting the stove in place and cutting my hole where the pipe ends up. If I add a tee here or a 45* there will it not change my exit location by a few inches to a foot or more? It doesn't look like there are many options for "I need the pipe to be 7" longer" They all seem to be fixed length parts and you need to conform to the pipe sizes?
there doesn't seem to be a good option for changing the venting setup. Other than going through a dealer and getting fleeced.
The sections of pipe look like some have the crimped ends others click together or have straight cut walls, So there are compatibility issues between pipe manufacturers.
And finally it looks like I will be setting the stove in place and cutting my hole where the pipe ends up. If I add a tee here or a 45* there will it not change my exit location by a few inches to a foot or more? It doesn't look like there are many options for "I need the pipe to be 7" longer" They all seem to be fixed length parts and you need to conform to the pipe sizes?
there doesn't seem to be a good option for changing the venting setup. Other than going through a dealer and getting fleeced.
I do have pretty good access to the front of that stove access from inside. I have thought about adding a capped "T" on the top then passing a brush down through the pipe and vacuuming out the ash at the bottom of the 90's. I don't think that will change my powervent mounting location.franco b wrote:If there will be enough room in back of stove I would come out of stove with a tee. Middle part of tee pointed up 45 degrees and another 45 to clear hopper. End of tee capped to use as clean out. That area will accumulate fly ash.
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The pipe lengths can be trimmed to fit what you need. If you don't have crimping pliers, be sure to cut off the non crimped end. Look for an ACE hardware store in your area, they either have or can get whatever you need. I just refitted the stove pipe on my stoker to include 2 cleanout tees. I set mine up so I could clean all of my pipes without removing any. Mine is in my basement and while the install isn't pretty, it functions beautiful. The draft on my setup is good enough that I can leave the cap off of the tee closest to the stove with a cold chimney and it still sucks all the smoke from the starter bag right up the pipe and none leaks out of the open end of the tee. I didn't discover this intentionally, I'll blame it on my wife. I just installed the last cleanout tee today after my sons football game. The stove was shut down for 5 hours prior to me beginning the work. My wife was rushing me to get the honey do list completed. I installed the tee in place of the 90 I had, prepared to light the stove. I lit the bag waited to hear the snap crackle pop of the bag then went to flip the switch to turn on the fan and feed then noticed the cap was laying on the stove. I thought oh crap, I'll have a basement and house full of smoke in no time. I went to the tee with the cap and saw the smoke from the starter bag was entering the stove side of the tee and moving on nicely towards the chimney like nobodys business. I watched it for a little bit to see how it behaved, no smoke came out the open tee, none. And the tee turns the gasses into about 3ft long almost horizontal run. I know the closer to horizontal the worse the draft tends to be, but that's the only way I could do make things work, there is just no physical way to change it other than moving my chimney.
This is what I ended up with for now. Easy to change in the future I guess. And I would think adding the T at the top would let me passs a brush down the length. The two 90* at the bottom and one 90* at the top are not ideal. But its power vented, so maby that gives me some extra lee way. I have a dampable Power venter and will have the Mano continuously set up So I will be able to monitor the Draft (aiming for .4 from what I understand) If there are too many fluctuations I can install the Baro I bought. Just trying to keep it simple and I had everything but the "T" already. Not a fan of the wasted air the baro will continuously pull out of the house if it holds a steady draft with the PV alone.
Good plan to install the Manometer probe in that clean out cap?
Good plan to install the Manometer probe in that clean out cap?
reference the clearances to the edge of the board and the window trim. I will monitor the Heat with my new SEEK thermal camera on the surfaces and if the need be I will install some sections of stove board from Lowes to protect them. I think I only ended up with 10" clearance.