Questions About New Install of LL110 Boiler

I have purchased a LL110 boiler and have a couple of questions around hookup that I cannot find clear answers on the forums.
1. I have a Amtrol water heater that will be hooked up and used instead of the coil in the boiler. Should I run the plumbing through the boiler coil to heat the water in the Amtrol or just have another zone plumbed for the Amtrol?
If using another zone, should I remove the boiler coil? If using another zone for the Amtrol, can I use this to dump excess heat, if needed? I have a Honeywell temperator on the outlet of the Amtrol.
2. My chimney opening is about 8" lower than the outlet of the LL110. I have read in the forums that the exhaust pipe should run uphill. My chimney is about 30' tall from boiler outlet, I am wondering if I can use (2) 45's to connect to existing thimble or should I install another opening to allow the exhaust pipe to go uphill.
I have not measured the existing draft.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Stan

Im not very sure about th particulars of the amtrol water heater but a lot of people will tie the domestic water coil to the inlet of their water heater.

The smoke pipe should definitely go up hill. If you try to run it down to the tremble it could cause the gases to back up and never find their way up the chimney. Resulting in carbon monoxide in your house. It sounds like you will have to make a new tremble.

If you plan on burning year round, I'd forget about the boilermate and sell it on Craigslist.
If you're going to switch to oil on the summer, I'd hook it up.

You will most definitely need a new hole in the chimney. It MUST rise at least 1/4" per foot.

Boiler Mate gets a zone pump for it's self...the coil can come out and opening get blanked over.

What I would do in your situation is feed your DHW cold side through
the coal boiler DHW coil an then into the amtrol. Make a loop with a
domestic water pump and thermostat to keep the amtrol up to temperature.
Leave the boiler loop in the amtrol hooked to your oil boiler just in case.

You will need to cut a new thimble for the chimney. Star chisel, hammer,
diamond grinder, box of bandaids, no problem.

For the dump zone to BoilerMate question...
It's not going to be your better option due to the ability of getting the most BTU's dumped.
You would have to wire in a circuit bypass so that the BoilerMate's stat doesn't stop short the dumping required beyond that of the normal DHW set point.

How are you zoning the rest of the structure, valves or pumps?

Maybe consider another zone for the dump.

Thanks for all of the great advise. I thought that I would have to have a new chimney opening to maintain the uphill slant.
I have two zone valves, one for 1st floor and one for 2nd floor that never comes on, cool bedrooms make for better sleeping.
I had read in the forum that with a large hot water draw on the domestic coil, it made it hard for the low volume water in the boiler (12 gallons) to respond burning coal. I thought that having the Amtrol as another zone may steady the boiler operation. The Amtrol was used when I was using an OWB and the Amtrol feeds an electric hot water heater that is used in summer.
I don't know if I will burn coal all year, I need to get through the first winter first to see how I like it.
I live way downeast Maine right on the coast, so winters can be unpredictable.
Love the forum as I have spent a lot of time researching it, which is why I went with coal instead of wood pellets for central heating.
thanks
Stan

As for low boiler water volume and the heavy home heating demands plus the DHW added in, it helps if you can have a "priority control" over the Amtrol. House zone(s) have to wait till the DHW load has been statified before resuming back to house zone(s). Trying to do both at the same time will drag all water temps down badly.

I have installed a new thimble in the chimney and have the boiler mostly plumbed. On startup with oil, I am not going to pipe domestic water to and from the boiler coil heater and just use the indirect heater. Possibly later on coal I will plumb the coil and have the indirect in series.
I have a wiring question:
I just have one circulator that was supplied with the boiler and two zone valves. The 1" zone valve is for the downstairs and a 3/4" zone valve for the upstairs, which never comes on.
Zone valves are 2 wire Automag RI series which are powered closed and fail open.
I want to wire the dump zone so the one circulator will start, and both zone valves will open to get rid of the heat.
How do I do this?

I have 13 feet of 11/4" pipe in the primary loop with 8" between secondary tees. The supply secondary exits primary on south side and return enters on north side, any issues with this? It is hard to get nipples of correct sizes when you do not have the equipment to thread pipe.
thanks
Stan

stloz wrote:I want to wire the dump zone so the one circulator will start, and both zone valves will open to get rid of the heat.
How do I do this?
thanks
Stan

Are you already using a relay panel to start pump(s) and open z valves?

What aqua-stats are you using?

I do not have a relay panel and the aquastat is the Honeywell L8124AC supplied with the boiler. I want to do the install as cheap as possible.
thanks
Stan

Stan, one of your zones would probably be adequate to scrub off a little extra heat. You can wire the dump zone aquastat in parallel with one of your thermostats.

Thanks Rob. I will wire the dump zone to the 1" zone which is the only one that I use. The other one is not wired to a thermastat because of not needing heat upstairs.
How does every one with the LL110 boilers deal with no Low Water Cut Off switch? I have a Hydrastat aquastat on an off line oil boiler that has LWCO built in. I am wondering if I should use this instead of the 8124?
Stan

I have a question about the type of 120 VAC coil with SPST needed for the dump zone with zone valves as described in the diagram on the web site. I have 2 zone valves with only one hooked to a thermastat for downstairs. I do not have a zone control panel.
I could not find any locally so am going to order from the internetm but would like to make sure these will work.
these relays have terminals that wires can be hooked to.
OMRON G7L-1A-BUBJ-CB-AC100/120 Relay,Magnet Blowout,SPST,4 Pin,120VAC