How Would You Vent This?

That thermal camera will show what's happening in that window from outdoors, too.

Looks good to me. Three or four self tappers in each joint?

I don't think you need the T at the top for brushing the vertical, it won't accumulate the fly ash, only the horizontals will. You can tap on the vertical pipe and the small amount of fly ash on the walls will drop to your lower T. That T at the bottom is well placed, you can remove the cap and vac out the fly ash easily. Check it after burning through a ton to see what is laying there and then you can figure the next time you need to clean it based on tonnage burned. You should also see a difference in manometer reading if you get a large build up of fly ash. So if you get lower readings on it than you are used to seeing as you burn this season start looking for blockages!

I am not a power venter so somebody else will have to give you an idea of how often to clean it.

If you do need the baro you could put it in a T where the top 90* is now. Do you have a way to clean out the horizontal section that passes through the window?

Flue pipe doesn't get that hot, check the trim initially during some full out burns but I believe you will find the 10" clearance is fine.

Well this is upsetting, Granted the stove is not fired up yet... Maby the heat rising will help? but I plugged in the PV and stove and I'm only pulling .30 inches of draft. I was really hoping for more and then to damp down the draft. I think the damper is 90% open and only getting this.

Ah ha! Had a thought... There is no coal in the hopper. So I was loosing draft through the coal shoot. New reading after shoving a towel in the coal shoot. Still not excessive, But its at least in spec now.

Elfmaze wrote:Ah ha! Had a thought... There is no coal in the hopper. So I was loosing draft through the coal shoot. New reading after shoving a towel in the coal shoot. Still not excessive, But its at least in spec now.

No it is not !!!!!!! You have waaayyyyyy too much draft.

You want to have .04 or there about for the draft.

Your draft readings at running the PV at full blast like this will lead to a hopper fire.

Rick

OH .04 not .40 : Lol, that could have sucked.

I don't care what they say about you, Your alright Rick

Edit: OK, so fully damped i'm still pulling .05-.06. I have a router speed controller that I can reduce the voltage to the motor and slow it down, but I have heard this can burn the unit up quicker.

So now that you know........... adjust the rheostat on the PV down to get the reading of .04

The PV will now be running a lot slower and a lot quieter. Perhaps put a reference mark on the rheostat for the .04 setting.
You will also then be able to see how much MORE power is available if the pipe becomes somewhat clogged and you will be able to increase the speed accordingly until you get the time to clean the pipes.

Now what some have done is to take a leaf blower to the outside of the PV to blow the fly ash off the PV blades. But I would suggest you do that without the little lady present until you make sure it doesn't blow some ash back into the house !!!!!! And make sure you got the PV on full blast. Or it you really want to be daring, take the cap off one of the "T's" and then have at it with the leaf blower. Not sure if this works or not but Bill Murray did it in Caddyshack to clean his house/apartment.

Rick

YYEEEEHHAAAAAA.....that was some draft ya had goin' on there pardner!!!!

Sorry I missed your .4 reference before....good you did a trial run before firing it up at that draft! All your heat would have been heading out the PV.

Doesn't your PV already have a rheostat on it?

Elfmaze wrote:
Edit: OK, so fully damped i'm still pulling .05-.06. I have a router speed controller that I can reduce the voltage to the motor and slow it down, but I have heard this can burn the unit up quicker.

Didn't that PV come with a motor speed controller (rheostat) ??

If not, a router speed controller is just what you need. ( A lamp dimmer switch is the wrong kind of rheostat)
And yes you would use that speed controller to slow down the motor of the PV. Usually the speed controller is set near the middle to low side of the scale. And at that speed, the baro should just be starting to open if you have it (the baro) set to .04 on the scale of the flapper.

Rick