Ready to Buy a Keystoker Koker Lite
- windyhill4.2
- Member
- Posts: 6072
- Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
- Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
- Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both
You bought a new ? unit without instructions ? call Keystoker, they should be willing to help.Most everyone on the forum knows how helpful the folks at Leisure Line are,they would be communicating with you on here & phone,would expect the same from any company when making new purchase.
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- Member
- Posts: 264
- Joined: Thu. Apr. 14, 2011 12:13 pm
- Location: Springville, NY
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker Koker controlled with CoalTrol
The current online manual for the koker is actually pretty good compared to the old one they were issuing with kokers when I bought mine 4 yrs ago. I bought a koker, natural vent so I did not have to put together the direct vent kit, that is where some of your screws are going. You need to mount the convection blower to the koker and probably the air filter racks to each side of the convection fan (they came unattached on mine). You have to mount the timer that controls the coal flow at idle. Most people put it on the hopper (with this installation, try sealing the screws so water from wet coal doesn't weep out of the hopper behind the timer). The hopper of my koker is up against one of my basement walls, so I installed the timer on the wall. Don't worry about its own circuit, just make sure if there is any thing else on that circuit that it won't get overloaded and pop your breaker at an in-opportune time. The koker doesn't draw that much power, so there really shouldn't be too much issue finding a nearby plug and plugging her in. I am not sure what the direct-venters use for pipe going to the wall, I always assumed double walled stainless but I am not sure. What every you use, all joints need to be screwed and SEALED with hi temp silicone. With the blower blowing fumes into the flue pipes, fumes/CO will leak out of the pipes if they are not sealed.2004blackwrx wrote:I bought myself the keystoker koker. It came a couple of weeks ago and I finally just got it in the basement. Now I am starting the assembly process. My unit came with no instructions. I have been using the online ones. However I still don't see everything in the manual. My koker came with about 12 to 15 screws im assuming to to mount the fan, timer and the stove pipe. Also it came with 3 small brackets which I do not know what they are for. Can anyone please let me know. Also just want to make sure black 4 inch stove pipe is fine for the 5 foot horizontal run I need for my direct vent. Lastly my oil furnace is on its own circuit is it required that my koker have its own circuit too. Thanks
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- Member
- Posts: 264
- Joined: Thu. Apr. 14, 2011 12:13 pm
- Location: Springville, NY
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker Koker controlled with CoalTrol
Oh, another thing. I have posted this before but I am not sure how well known this issue is to Koker customers/distributors. Make sure you shim the back of your koker just enough to tilt it forward. This will ensure proper coal feeding down the stoker ramp. Having it perfectly level is probably ok, but if the stove is tilted (maybe due to an uneven floor) even a hair towards the back (front corners are higher than the back corners), the coal won't feed properly. My stove guy warned me of this when I took delivery of the stove so I never experienced a feed problem. From day one, I put shims under the back corners and it may be raised up maybe 1/4 inch higher than the front (I believe stove was dead level, sitting on the floor). With a level on the top, the bubble drifts slightly to off center. Doing this will just take one question mark out of the equation, should you have other issues in the future.
I also put my koker on 1" high, 12" x 12" concrete pavers. Raising any of these stoves off of concrete floors is common practice. This just allows air to circulate under them. With coal appliances, you must always be vigilant towards corrosion, inside and outside the stove. The koker will probably out live you if it is cared for from day one.
I also put my koker on 1" high, 12" x 12" concrete pavers. Raising any of these stoves off of concrete floors is common practice. This just allows air to circulate under them. With coal appliances, you must always be vigilant towards corrosion, inside and outside the stove. The koker will probably out live you if it is cared for from day one.
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- Posts: 601
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 09, 2008 7:05 am
- Location: Geauga County, NE Ohio
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Keystoker Koker
- Coal Size/Type: rice
I used 4" single wall stainless steel pipes for my direct vent Koker, except for the galvanized adjustable elbow.
Here's a thousand words worth..
Here's a thousand words worth..
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- Member
- Posts: 48
- Joined: Tue. Apr. 29, 2014 7:39 pm
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Looking to buy one
Thanks sounds good. I have already read about raising the back. Currently have koker on 4 cement bricks and rear bricks are on top of small tile piece for a little more height. I havent called koker because I have the online manual but when I have called they have been very helpful. Thanks
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: Tue. Apr. 29, 2014 7:39 pm
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Looking to buy one
Hey another quick questions. My koker is slowly coming together. Have not done much work lately on it since I am still waiting for stove pipe to come. I went to install the blower motor today and came across to questions. First does the holes on your blowers line up with the holes on the furnace or did you drill new holes in the blower. It does not appear mine lineup. Also did you mount the blower to the furnace with just the 4 sheet metal screws. I just want to make sure this is secure enough.
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- Posts: 264
- Joined: Thu. Apr. 14, 2011 12:13 pm
- Location: Springville, NY
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker Koker controlled with CoalTrol
I don't think any holes lined up with the convection blower. It fits inside the throat on the stove so the self tapping screws will just need to penetrate the metal on the blower casing. Also, if you don't notice, it is a fairly loose fit so you need to get some good metal duct tape (such as 3M Foil Tape w/ acrylic adhesive) to seal the blower into the stove.
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- Joined: Tue. Apr. 29, 2014 7:39 pm
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Looking to buy one
Thanks sounds like I am doing it right then. Yea it definitely needs some tape to fill those gaps.WNYRob wrote:I don't think any holes lined up with the convection blower. It fits inside the throat on the stove so the self tapping screws will just need to penetrate the metal on the blower casing. Also, if you don't notice, it is a fairly loose fit so you need to get some good metal duct tape (such as 3M Foil Tape w/ acrylic adhesive) to seal the blower into the stove.
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- Posts: 48
- Joined: Tue. Apr. 29, 2014 7:39 pm
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Looking to buy one
Things are going good so far for me. I got all but the duct work done. Decided to test stove today. A little trial and error and finally got it lit. Had to adjust feed rate to keep it hot but it looks good now. As far as I can tell there are no instructions for this, but how do you turn it off and put the fire out. I would assume just unplug it and the fire will go out, but being that I have a direct vent I want to make sure this is correct before I flood the house with co2.
- McGiever
- Member
- Posts: 10130
- Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
Oh Crap...nobody helped this poor fellow out!2004blackwrx wrote:Things are going good so far for me. I got all but the duct work done. Decided to test stove today. A little trial and error and finally got it lit. Had to adjust feed rate to keep it hot but it looks good now. As far as I can tell there are no instructions for this, but how do you turn it off and put the fire out. I would assume just unplug it and the fire will go out, but being that I have a direct vent I want to make sure this is correct before I flood the house with co2.
Anyway, coal on flat or incline stoker will not smolder much when air source is removed.
Even better, turn off air and rake the hot coals into ash pan...again, it won't smolder, this ain't wood.
BTW: It's not co2, it's CO, "carbon monoxide"
- foxfire1962
- Member
- Posts: 37
- Joined: Sat. Dec. 20, 2014 6:50 pm
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Koker lite
I have the koker lite, My house is 1400 SQ FT......My koker heats my house with very little effort, I do believe its the way its hooked up to the existing furnace.. Mt gas furnace is only 85,000 BTU's.....My koker can put out 105.000 BTU's....
- lsayre
- Member
- Posts: 21781
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 23, 2005 9:17 pm
- Location: Ohio
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
- Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75
It's more likely that your Koker Lite can eat (burn) the equivalent of 105,000 BTU's worth of anthracite per hour at its maximum feed rate. Output into the home is more likely in the neighborhood of 75,000 BTU's while also at maximum feed rate. A safe bet is that your house does not need nearly this many BTU's as a rule. 105,000 BTU's per hour of feed rate per day would require that you are going through 206 lbs. of coal per day.foxfire1962 wrote:I have the koker lite, My house is 1400 SQ FT......My koker heats my house with very little effort, I do believe its the way its hooked up to the existing furnace.. Mt gas furnace is only 85,000 BTU's.....My koker can put out 105.000 BTU's....
- foxfire1962
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- Posts: 37
- Joined: Sat. Dec. 20, 2014 6:50 pm
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Koker lite
Not even close, with the temps down to -8 at night I was burning about 80 LBS every 24 hours, not sure where you guys get all these crazy numbers....
- lsayre
- Member
- Posts: 21781
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 23, 2005 9:17 pm
- Location: Ohio
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
- Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75
Start with 12,250 BTU's per pound (as received) and go from there. All of the heat you can ever get out starts out within the coal.foxfire1962 wrote:Not even close, with the temps down to -8 at night I was burning about 80 LBS every 24 hours, not sure where you guys get all these crazy numbers....
For 80 lbs. burned per day at an assumed 75% overall efficiency:
12,250 BTU's/Lb. x 0.75 x 80 lbs. / 24 hours = 30,625 BTUH (BTU's per hour) as output
- foxfire1962
- Member
- Posts: 37
- Joined: Sat. Dec. 20, 2014 6:50 pm
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Koker lite
The insulation in the house and the windows play a BIG part in the efficiency of your furnace as well...