Draft Spec in Door Same in Stack Pipe?
- ShawnTRD
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Keystoker specs -.02 from the fire door. Think that it should be the same in the stack pipe? I have my damper weight all the way out and can still only get as low as heavy -.03. When I'm idle it's about -.02. Not sure if that's enough to matter. Thought maybe adding a small bolt to the other side of the damper.
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[quote="ShawnTRD"]Keystoker specs -.02 from the fire door. Think that it should be the same in the stack pipe? I have my damper weight all the way out and can still only get as low as heavy -.03. When I'm idle it's about -.02. Not sure if that's enough to matter. Thought maybe adding a small bolt to the other side of the damper.[/quote
.02 is a minimum over the fire, I think .03 is fine to be extra safe with the forced combustion air and that number may drop as fly ash builds up. Over fire is the most important since it takes into account any draft loss through the unit. You would expect a higher number at the breech. If stack temp. were excessive, then I would be concerned.
.02 is a minimum over the fire, I think .03 is fine to be extra safe with the forced combustion air and that number may drop as fly ash builds up. Over fire is the most important since it takes into account any draft loss through the unit. You would expect a higher number at the breech. If stack temp. were excessive, then I would be concerned.
- northernmainecoal
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I'm not familiar with Keystoker's specs. But I would not expect the over fire draft to be the same as the stack. On my EFM I shoot for -.05 in the stack and -.02 or so over fire.
- ShawnTRD
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Based on that I might need more draft.northernmainecoal wrote:I'm not familiar with Keystoker's specs. But I would not expect the over fire draft to be the same as the stack. On my EFM I shoot for -.05 in the stack and -.02 or so over fire.
- ShawnTRD
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I'll check that tonight when I get home. On high fire right?titleist1 wrote:What is your draft reading in the flue pipe if you put foil over your baro opening?
- ShawnTRD
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ok
idle for 10 minutes after timer. Boiler temp was a little over 140f
-.01+ without blocking damper
-.02 blocked
high fire for at less 10 minutes Boiler temp was maybe 155f
-.04 without blocking damper
-.05 blocked
I then pulled the tube out of my chimney pipe and manometer read zero
idle for 10 minutes after timer. Boiler temp was a little over 140f
-.01+ without blocking damper
-.02 blocked
high fire for at less 10 minutes Boiler temp was maybe 155f
-.04 without blocking damper
-.05 blocked
I then pulled the tube out of my chimney pipe and manometer read zero
My personal preference would be to have the idle fire draft at .02 as a minimum, that .01 is a little bit to low for my comfort level. Not much 'fade margin' there when it is .01.
Your hi fire readings are OK IMO. .05 is as high a draft reading as I would want, I set my baro to keep a .04 during full fire.
I can't remember if you have a power vent or chimney. If power vent maybe turning that up a little will tweak the idle reading to .02 without taking the full fire reading above .05?
If chimney I would just leave the foil over the baro until it gets colder and see if the lower outside temp helps the idle fire draft number. That is what I do, I have a piece of foil that stays near the stoker. I will also adjust the baro weight to open the flapper a little more when we get to the real cold weather.
Your hi fire readings are OK IMO. .05 is as high a draft reading as I would want, I set my baro to keep a .04 during full fire.
I can't remember if you have a power vent or chimney. If power vent maybe turning that up a little will tweak the idle reading to .02 without taking the full fire reading above .05?
If chimney I would just leave the foil over the baro until it gets colder and see if the lower outside temp helps the idle fire draft number. That is what I do, I have a piece of foil that stays near the stoker. I will also adjust the baro weight to open the flapper a little more when we get to the real cold weather.