My New Crawford!

Newly cast drop in wood grate for the '40.

Thank you George

That's neat. I would have one just to have it. It's like the register plate I have for the Glenwood. It will never get used, but; it's very nice to have.

Scott , nice wood register. It was cast from a near perfect example. I didn't realize George was so close to me. I'll have to call and go see him. Stove looks grate.
Kevin

Have you tried closing the MPD more to get the draft down? Will the stove maintain temp with say about .02 to .04 ?

If it will burn well at lower draft numbers, then having higher draft is just sending heat up the chimney.

Paul

Nice casting on the wood plate.

Someday, I hope to get recast ones for my #6 and the 118's.

As William says, I may never need it, but my perspective of fully restoring a stove, I think it's nice to have all the parts and tools that originally came with the stoves.

Kinda like having the correct jack and lug wrench that came with an antique car. Hopefully ya never need it, but it does add to the value.

Paul

Sunny Boy wrote:Have you tried closing the MPD more to get the draft down? Will the stove maintain temp with say about .02 to .04 ?

If it will burn well at lower draft numbers, then having higher draft is just sending heat up the chimney.

Paul

I have not tried it at lower numbers yet because it's still warm out and don't I want to be foolish with closing the MPD more than 45*. I think I will lose the fire dropping that low? Only trying it will prove what works though. Last season I constantly ran the Crawford No. 2 with the MPD closed except for shaking/reload.

It will be cold soon enough and I will post data as I learn more about running this larger stove on my chimney.
All this has been in base mode. I'm sure the stove will run at lower numbers in direct mode, but what's the point, lol?!

*Edited for content.

Sunny Boy wrote:Nice casting on the wood plate.

Someday, I hope to get recast ones for my #6 and the 118's.

As William says, I may never need it, but my perspective of fully restoring a stove, I think it's nice to have all the parts and tools that originally came with the stoves.

Kinda like having the correct jack and lug wrench that came with an antique car. Hopefully ya never need it, but it does add to the value.

Paul

I agree Paul . I'm going to see if I can procure all the original accessories, if any, that were offered with the stove.
Wouldn't it be nice if I could find a trivet for the clover shaped oven?!

scalabro wrote:

Sunny Boy wrote:Have you tried closing the MPD more to get the draft down? Will the stove maintain temp with say about .02 to .04 ?

If it will burn well at lower draft numbers, then having higher draft is just sending heat up the chimney.

Paul

I have not tried it at lower numbers yet because it's still warm out and don't I want to be foolish with closing the MPD more than 45*. I think I will lose the fire dropping that low? Only trying it will prove what works though. Last season I constantly ran the Crawford No. 2 with the MPD closed except for shaking/reload.

It will be cold soon enough and I will post data as I learn more about running this larger stove on my chimney.
All this has been in base mode. I'm sure the stove will run at lower numbers in direct mode, but what's the point, lol?!

*Edited for content.

I understand your concern. If you have a well drafting setup, I think that you'll be pleasantly surprised just how slow/low that stove will run.

Once I had the mano and had experience and confidence in it, I wanted to see just how well the range would do at low settings. Granted the range is well sealed now and I have a tall chimney with good draft.

I found the range ran fine all the way up to 75 degrees outside and damped down with the primary only a sliver open and the MPD fully closed, just venting through the four holes in the MPD plate. It kept a fire all that warm day damped down like that and only pulling just under .001 draft.

Only differences were, I had the water tank damper closed while it was in indirect mode, thus less heating the kitchen and sending a bit more heat to the chimney. And, I didn't need to use any check damper opening to get it to stay at that slow a rate, like I have to when the weather is colder.

Come dinner time, it was a bit more sluggish to respond when I opened up the dampers to get hotter surfaces to cook dinner, but had no problems reaching the higher cooking temps.

It really is surprising how low a draft reading will still keep this old stoves running if they are restored and sealed properly and you have a good chimney system.

Paul

scalabro wrote:

Sunny Boy wrote:Nice casting on the wood plate.

Someday, I hope to get recast ones for my #6 and the 118's.

As William says, I may never need it, but my perspective of fully restoring a stove, I think it's nice to have all the parts and tools that originally came with the stoves.

Kinda like having the correct jack and lug wrench that came with an antique car. Hopefully ya never need it, but it does add to the value.

Paul

I agree Paul . I'm going to see if I can procure all the original accessories, if any, that were offered with the stove.
Wouldn't it be nice if I could find a trivet for the clover shaped oven?!

Was a trivet that shape ever offered as part of the stove ? If so, I'll keep an eye out for one.

Paul

I don't know if one was offered. I've never been given or found a definitive answer. If you find one, rest assured I will compensate you for it.

I've been Runnin low and slow for several weeks now.

I find that I don't get the same type of ash as on a hot burn. Not the same as what I experienced last season with the C20. Not as much bridging with stove coal, I find, or could this be due to low firepot temps?

Bridging was a good thing with the 20. You could really get the ash out by opening the clinker door and cleaning with a piece of 1/4 inch steel rod. It was like a game every morning to try and get as much ash out as I could before the roof fell in!

I find the 40 is not as quick cleaning as the 20, I guess due to the mongo sized pot.

The one thing I would like, but to my knowledge they do not exist, is a internally bypassed stove like the Crawford 20,30,40,50 with prismatic grates.

scalabro wrote:The one thing I would like, but to my knowledge they do not exist, is a internally bypassed stove like the Crawford 20,30,40,50 with prismatic grates.

Have you tried a quick in and out with the center dump part of the grate?

Yes Franco.

It's seems to be around the circumference of the grates that don't want to clear by using the shaker handle.

scalabro wrote:Newly cast drop in wood grate for the '40.

Thank you George

If'n I was designing a wood plate, that's what it would look like.
Mine has slots on half the plate, the other is solid and there are holes around half the perimeter. Odd.

scalabro wrote:
I have not tried it at lower numbers yet because it's still warm out and don't I want to be foolish with closing the MPD more than 45*. I think I will lose the fire dropping that low? Only trying it will prove what works though. Last season I constantly ran the Crawford No. 2 with the MPD closed except for shaking/reload.

It will be cold soon enough and I will post data as I learn more about running this larger stove on my chimney.
All this has been in base mode. I'm sure the stove will run at lower numbers in direct mode, but what's the point, lol?!

*Edited for content.

I don't know what your MPD looks like but mine has a hole or two in it plus space around where the axle goes through the plate. I have my MPD closed off....as in totally. 45 degrees past 45 degrees.

550 on the barrel and just under 200 on the stack.