No Heat, Cant Keep Fire Burning.

Here is one more thought AFTER the grate and gasket issues. If you could remove the lower stoker blower motor housing(only one bolt) and gently remove the cover, you will see the squirrel cage blower (not very big, but for combustion air) look it over. I had a pesky problem a month ago with a lazy fire/out fires. It seems that cat hair /dog hair/lint, etcv had clogged the inside of the squirrel cage. It spins fine, test fine BUT no air was passing through to the grate. It is an easy fix, and one most folks never would think is an issue. There is no mesh or filter from the factory, so I made up a mesh screen and taped it to the housing. This might be an issue for you to check out. Never know exactly what the problem is, but you sure need to think 'outside the box' on this one. Welcome to the coal forum, and good luck. NEVER GIVE UP!!

would this help???

sorry for the hijack but I have a stove I only use once a year and have a similar problem

I hope these help to identify the stove for a manual.

Ken Hallstead wrote:I will post a few pictures as soon as my kid gets home to show me how to send them with my phone, lol. I am technologically challenged.

Well you have great patience ! It can be a little confusing with a new stove. ...

stick with it, we're all pulling for ya.

You mean one like this ????

But mine has the heat jacket I added. And my glass is all etched so you cannot see the logo.
Rick

Certainly looks alot like it. I had some pretty good success today. I cleaned the entire stove, ran a 1/8" drill bit through all the holes in the grate and refired it. Ran great at 360-370 range for about an hour and the spill switch he had wired in for his power vent kicked it off. I refired it after disconnecting that and has been running at 380 for the past few hours and all seems good. I put a CO2 detector in the room with it (my old porch), as well as 2 more in my house and so far no alarms,lol. Thanks a million everyone. I also called Alaska to check on a fan/feed motor and will be ordering a spare, mine is a little noisy as well as the rheostat unless someone knows of a cheaper option to control the fan speed.

The "Spill switch" you refer to, is that a WMO-1 fume switch ??

I believe in your initial post you mentioned that you have this in a regular chimney. If so, yes you can disconnect that switch.
IF YOU ARE RUNNING THIS STOVE WITH A POWER VENT, THE FUME SWITCH MUST BE RECONNECTED !!!!!!

Now what some have done to these old triburners is to remove the squirrel cage portion from the feed motor assembly and attach another fan such as a bathroon fan to supply a constant amount of combustion air. Then you can use the rheostat in combination with the cam lobe to fine tune the amount of coal being fed to the grate. They claimed that you need all than combustion air to fully burn the coal. I never bothered doing that to mine. I always kept the rheostat on full to provide the most combustion air and only adjusted the cam lobe. From a low fire to full burn was only a difference of 4-5 turns on the cam lobe. And as a reminder full blast is where you have about 1" of ash before it falls off into the pan. If you are pushing red hot coals into the pan, you are just wasting coal and not getting the benefit of a complete burn.

Keep an eye on the location of the burning coal in relation to the hopper. If he fire is creeping toward the hopper, the grate probably is not seated correctly and not keeping the air from just coming up through the holes in the grate.

And I also believe you mentioned something about the distribution fan not working. You can always place a box fan behind the stove to blow the warm air from the stove into the living space.

Sounds like you got his thing up and running well so far. Congratulations !!! Now sit back and relax and enjoy the heat.

Rick