Boilermater Issue?

 
mcguirehg
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Post by mcguirehg » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 7:30 am

We had a storm last night and now I can't get hot water. The EFM 525 is running fine. The zone control shows the water zone calling for water and I hear a noise from the indirect. I reset the circuit with no luck. This unit has a manual control (came from HD). Could this be electronic or am I missing something.

Thanks,
Dan


 
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blrman07
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Post by blrman07 » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 7:41 am

Chance are good you burned out a component on the control board. Type boilermate problem in the custom search bar at the top right of the page and begin reading. Lots of info and self help fixes regarding boilermates in the forum.

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 8:41 am

These controllers are able to be used in either a 120 volt or a 24 volt control application.

In all the reading and then in the "fix" it was the 120 volt option that was the trouble...not the 24 volt.

The 24 volt option was not plagued with what the 120 volt was, and surely there have been improvements since this was on the older models.

For what it may be worth...Amtrol does sell a replacement control/part.

 
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franpipeman
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Post by franpipeman » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 8:58 am

i just had a burnham alliance idhw control become disabled as the 24 volt side died deader than a door nail after two months of operation . tip control is the name.
I had a cap tube control I used for replacement and hoping a get a replacement on warranty as its $200.00

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 9:12 am

If the storm was the cause, was anything else affected?

Minus the deductable, homeowners insurance can help. :idea:

Whole house panel surge protection saves a lot of greif and $$$.

 
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SMITTY
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Post by SMITTY » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 9:27 am

Don't know if this is the same issue your having, but I successfully repaired mine, & documented it in this thread here: Fixing the Dreaded Boilermate Buzz: Control Board Repair

Total cost: $0.00 . 8-)

If yours is running on 120v instead of 24v, and it's more than 5 years old, I can bet this is your problem .... & if it's not, it will be soon ... :P

 
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franpipeman
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Post by franpipeman » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 10:34 am

i have a whole house surge protection and also many stand alone surge protectors. I for now did away with the 24 volt sensing TIP control. but I did change to a 50 va transformer with a 3.2 amp 24 volt breaker on it that I scavenged from a old chiller I demoed. But I'm operating on a 120 degree capillary tube aqua state and that seems to be working well. I have received assurance from my vendor the TIP it will be covered on warranty but since I'm a slow worker I had the indirect since oct 2013, didn't get it operational until july 2014 so my warrant based on date of purchase just makes it.


 
mcguirehg
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Post by mcguirehg » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 9:36 pm

I spoke to Amtrol today on the phone and they said it may be the transformer? Is there a way to confirm or test the transformer on the boilermate wh-41z?

I had to shut down (shut off valve and circulator) the indirect down because it is just sending cold water to mix in with the hot water from the EFM, directly before my mixing valve resulting in cold showers....

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 9:42 pm

I'll check this, but thought the transformer was soldered onto the circuit board and not replaceable short of getting a whole new circuit board.

Amtrol saying transformer being shot makes it a NON warranty issue...you must pay.

With 120 volt application it would be best to use a relay to carry the higher current instead of the Amtrol controller. :idea:
McGiever wrote:These controllers are able to be used in either a 120 volt or a 24 volt control application.

In all the reading and then in the "fix" it was the 120 volt option that was the trouble...not the 24 volt.

The 24 volt option was not plagued with what the 120 volt was, and surely there have been improvements since this was on the older models.

For what it may be worth...Amtrol does sell a replacement control/part.
You must answer...is it 120v or 24v?

Can you post a picture of insides? Never mind...not important.

 
mcguirehg
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Post by mcguirehg » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 10:33 pm

The lable reads 112 volts, less than 12 amps..if that helps?

 
mcguirehg
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Post by mcguirehg » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 10:35 pm

I actually meant to say relay.....they suggested changing the relay, not transformer..thoughts?

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 10:41 pm

mcguirehg wrote:The lable reads 112 volts, less than 12 amps..if that helps?
No.no. no, Are you using it in the 120v or 24v option...not on any label.

If nothing else, tell us the color of the wires in the controller that are NOT connected to anything.

Same thing w/ relay...soldered on Amtrol circuit board. You must replace circuit board unless you can find parts and do board type solder repair work.
Only relay that may be replaced is if an external relay were added during installation.

Picture from *Smitty's* thread: :)

Check them fuses...you may get off cheap.

 
mcguirehg
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Post by mcguirehg » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 11:01 pm

Took out control box and no unused wires..all attached?

 
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McGiever
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Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
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Post by McGiever » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 11:19 pm

Are you using a multi-Zone relay controller? Taco, etc.

 
mcguirehg
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Post by mcguirehg » Thu. Oct. 23, 2014 11:28 pm

yes...we are using Taco multi zone.....?


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