Older Boiler in My Garage!
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4-1 dual fuel boiler
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: former switzer CWW100-sold
- Coal Size/Type: rice
- Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused
Hedging my options:
I would leave it alone and rent/buy the fibre optic camera and
inspect the boiler before you do anything only because you can
cap it and check for leaks with compressed air later.
I would leave it alone and rent/buy the fibre optic camera and
inspect the boiler before you do anything only because you can
cap it and check for leaks with compressed air later.
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- Location: Kent CT
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
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- Coal Size/Type: nut and pea
Get rid of the union and that nipple too, unless it looks like new and start fresh right from the boiler. Use Rob's suggestion for pipe dope and tape.
What Scott suggests is not that hard.
What Scott suggests is not that hard.
- Sting
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- Location: Lower Fox Valley = Wisconsin
- Other Heating: OBSO Lennox Pulse "Air Scorcher" burning NG
VERY difficult and in the same= its very EZ to make suggestions - You can do this --- you can do that -- you can do anything you want because I don't have to.
All the FIGMENTS OF THE PUBLIC INTERNET lurking/posting here are not responsible for the result of your actions
Your Mileage may vary _ I don't know what your capable of - I am not standing in your boiler room holding your beer
many expert suggestions in this thread and that's the point that you have noticed me making above-
Now ask yourself about your comfort level and make a choice that you can live with because all the good folks here will not have to
Lets look past this for a moment and let me toss out a Question that may help - maybe not -
Will you be the pipe fitter on this install? Will you plan the layout, purchase the parts, thread the pipe, tape and dope the threads, debug the pitfalls that will arise other than this, configure install and wire the control system(s) and the 27 other things that will need to be done?
Why do I ask - because if your answer is no - then STOP now. The fitter you hire will have this surmounted in 20 minutes.
If the answer is yes - then pick from the cafeteria above - yes, you should be able to reseal that union - yes, you should be able to build on --- IF you haven't already distorted any of the fittings [ or if the guy that busted the appliance out of service hasn't LOL] -- IF the fitting is still in good shape -- IF you understand how to properly use tape, dope, and anti-sieze compounds you can re-seat the old union
Kind Regards
Sting
All the FIGMENTS OF THE PUBLIC INTERNET lurking/posting here are not responsible for the result of your actions
Your Mileage may vary _ I don't know what your capable of - I am not standing in your boiler room holding your beer
many expert suggestions in this thread and that's the point that you have noticed me making above-
Now ask yourself about your comfort level and make a choice that you can live with because all the good folks here will not have to
Lets look past this for a moment and let me toss out a Question that may help - maybe not -
Will you be the pipe fitter on this install? Will you plan the layout, purchase the parts, thread the pipe, tape and dope the threads, debug the pitfalls that will arise other than this, configure install and wire the control system(s) and the 27 other things that will need to be done?
Why do I ask - because if your answer is no - then STOP now. The fitter you hire will have this surmounted in 20 minutes.
If the answer is yes - then pick from the cafeteria above - yes, you should be able to reseal that union - yes, you should be able to build on --- IF you haven't already distorted any of the fittings [ or if the guy that busted the appliance out of service hasn't LOL] -- IF the fitting is still in good shape -- IF you understand how to properly use tape, dope, and anti-sieze compounds you can re-seat the old union
Kind Regards
Sting
- windyhill4.2
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- Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
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- Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both
Was the union leaking b4 ?? The easiest way that works is often the best way especially for those with limited resources whether that be $$ ,experience,tools & pipes & fittings on hand.
- Scottscoaled
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520, 700, Van Wert 800 GJ 61,53
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- Coal Size/Type: Lots of buck
- Other Heating: Slant Fin electric boiler backup
I can see it's about time for an instructional video
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:
check for leaks with compressed air later.[/quote]
Warning! DO NOT TEST THE BOILER USEING ONLY AIR! Fill the boiler with water first to the top then put air to it.
check for leaks with compressed air later.[/quote]
Warning! DO NOT TEST THE BOILER USEING ONLY AIR! Fill the boiler with water first to the top then put air to it.
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- Location: Fair Haven, VT
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Dude......can I hold the camera while you hand me your beer and say "Here, hold my beer and watch this."? Please??Scottscoaled wrote:I can see it's about time for an instructional video
- Scottscoaled
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- Coal Size/Type: Lots of buck
- Other Heating: Slant Fin electric boiler backup
One condition. You buy the beer
- Rick 386
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: AA 260 heating both sides of twin farmhouse
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- Coal Size/Type: Pea in AA 260, Rice in LL Hyfire II
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- Contact:
Here's some helpful tips ScottScottscoaled wrote:I can see it's about time for an instructional video
And don't forget the tip about "puffy eyes."
Rick
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- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old- green furnace
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Ha! you guys are going crazy...I appreciate it!...humor too. I think I am going to 1. try to get a local machine shop to take the tee off the union. If they cannot option 2. smash it with a sledgehammer (with holes drilled first. If I cant (or if I destroy union nipple-option 3 buy new union and use half. If none of these solutions work I will crawl into the corner in a fetal position and later pay someone to come to my house and do what scott suggested (someone who has insurance!)
Also I have a will-burt 34170, and a honeywell 4081 high-low aquastat that came with my boiler, is there a way to use these two controls for hot water? I will be running only one hotwater circuit (to an hw-air heat exchanger. I may do something more complicated and will but the 8124 aquastat at that point...but for now is there a wiring diagram that would fit this bill?
If not- I Have a related question- anyone want to trade a will burt 34170, a float type low water cut off, a pressure cut-off with gauge, and 4081 aquastat for a different timer, a 8124 (or equivalent) aquastat and a low water cut off...not a bad deal!
Also I have a will-burt 34170, and a honeywell 4081 high-low aquastat that came with my boiler, is there a way to use these two controls for hot water? I will be running only one hotwater circuit (to an hw-air heat exchanger. I may do something more complicated and will but the 8124 aquastat at that point...but for now is there a wiring diagram that would fit this bill?
If not- I Have a related question- anyone want to trade a will burt 34170, a float type low water cut off, a pressure cut-off with gauge, and 4081 aquastat for a different timer, a 8124 (or equivalent) aquastat and a low water cut off...not a bad deal!
- Scottscoaled
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- Location: Malta N.Y.
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520, 700, Van Wert 800 GJ 61,53
- Baseburners & Antiques: Magic Stewart 16, times 2!
- Coal Size/Type: Lots of buck
- Other Heating: Slant Fin electric boiler backup
What's wrong with the Wilburt timer? They are supposed to be the top of the line.
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nothing is wrong with the timer, I'm just not sure if I can use it with a HW boiler (I'm still researching) I'd be willing to trade it (and the other steam components listed) for a set of components that would work for HW.
- Sting
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Maybe it would help if you think of your new toy in two partscoldinmaine wrote:nothing is wrong with the timer, I'm just not sure if I can use it with a HW boiler (I'm still researching) I'd be willing to trade it (and the other steam components listed) for a set of components that would work for HW.
one is the energy part - the hot water and the controls that move the energy it contains out to the load you want to heat
The other part is the fire and the timer is part of the controls that administer it -- regardless if you were creating steam or hot water in the part above
OK -- back to party room
- Scottscoaled
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520, 700, Van Wert 800 GJ 61,53
- Baseburners & Antiques: Magic Stewart 16, times 2!
- Coal Size/Type: Lots of buck
- Other Heating: Slant Fin electric boiler backup
Your Wilburt timer will work fine with the L8124. Hook it up the same way you would any other timer. You won't hook the thermostat to the Wilburt. Your thermostat will go to the tt on the L8124. The 24 volt section of the timer won't be used but that won't matter. The line voltage side will still make timing calls.
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I smashed the tee!...on to the next step.