Older Boiler in My Garage!

 
lzaharis
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Hand Fed Coal Boiler: former switzer CWW100-sold
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Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Thu. Oct. 30, 2014 11:21 am

Hedging my options:

I would leave it alone and rent/buy the fibre optic camera and
inspect the boiler before you do anything only because you can
cap it and check for leaks with compressed air later.


 
franco b
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Coal Size/Type: nut and pea

Post by franco b » Thu. Oct. 30, 2014 11:30 am

Get rid of the union and that nipple too, unless it looks like new and start fresh right from the boiler. Use Rob's suggestion for pipe dope and tape.

What Scott suggests is not that hard.

 
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Sting
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Post by Sting » Thu. Oct. 30, 2014 12:05 pm

VERY difficult and in the same= its very EZ to make suggestions - You can do this --- you can do that -- you can do anything you want because I don't have to.
All the FIGMENTS OF THE PUBLIC INTERNET lurking/posting here are not responsible for the result of your actions

Your Mileage may vary _ I don't know what your capable of - I am not standing in your boiler room holding your beer

many expert suggestions in this thread and that's the point that you have noticed me making above-

Now ask yourself about your comfort level and make a choice that you can live with because all the good folks here will not have to

Lets look past this for a moment and let me toss out a Question that may help - maybe not - :)

Will you be the pipe fitter on this install? Will you plan the layout, purchase the parts, thread the pipe, tape and dope the threads, debug the pitfalls that will arise other than this, configure install and wire the control system(s) and the 27 other things that will need to be done?

Why do I ask - because if your answer is no - then STOP now. The fitter you hire will have this surmounted in 20 minutes.

If the answer is yes - then pick from the cafeteria above - yes, you should be able to reseal that union - yes, you should be able to build on --- IF you haven't already distorted any of the fittings [ or if the guy that busted the appliance out of service hasn't LOL] -- IF the fitting is still in good shape -- IF you understand how to properly use tape, dope, and anti-sieze compounds you can re-seat the old union

Kind Regards
Sting

 
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windyhill4.2
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Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Thu. Oct. 30, 2014 1:39 pm

Was the union leaking b4 ?? The easiest way that works is often the best way especially for those with limited resources whether that be $$ ,experience,tools & pipes & fittings on hand.

 
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Scottscoaled
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Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520, 700, Van Wert 800 GJ 61,53
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Coal Size/Type: Lots of buck
Other Heating: Slant Fin electric boiler backup

Post by Scottscoaled » Thu. Oct. 30, 2014 5:03 pm

I can see it's about time for an instructional video :D

 
crazy4coal
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Post by crazy4coal » Thu. Oct. 30, 2014 6:36 pm

:

check for leaks with compressed air later.[/quote]
Warning! DO NOT TEST THE BOILER USEING ONLY AIR! Fill the boiler with water first to the top then put air to it.

 
cabinover
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Hybrid Axeman Anderson 130
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Coal Size/Type: Pea, Buckwheat, Nut
Other Heating: LP Hot air. WA TX for coal use.

Post by cabinover » Thu. Oct. 30, 2014 8:03 pm

Scottscoaled wrote:I can see it's about time for an instructional video :D
Dude......can I hold the camera while you hand me your beer and say "Here, hold my beer and watch this."? Please?? :lol:


 
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Scottscoaled
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Other Heating: Slant Fin electric boiler backup

Post by Scottscoaled » Thu. Oct. 30, 2014 8:32 pm

One condition. You buy the beer :)

 
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Rick 386
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Other Heating: Gas fired infared at work
Contact:

Post by Rick 386 » Thu. Oct. 30, 2014 10:06 pm

Scottscoaled wrote:I can see it's about time for an instructional video :D
Here's some helpful tips Scott

And don't forget the tip about "puffy eyes." :twisted: toothy :nana:



Rick

 
coldinmaine
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Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old- green furnace
Coal Size/Type: nut mostly
Other Heating: pellet, wood

Post by coldinmaine » Fri. Oct. 31, 2014 11:10 am

Ha! you guys are going crazy...I appreciate it!...humor too. I think I am going to 1. try to get a local machine shop to take the tee off the union. If they cannot option 2. smash it with a sledgehammer (with holes drilled first. If I cant (or if I destroy union nipple-option 3 buy new union and use half. If none of these solutions work I will crawl into the corner in a fetal position and later pay someone to come to my house and do what scott suggested (someone who has insurance!)

Also I have a will-burt 34170, and a honeywell 4081 high-low aquastat that came with my boiler, is there a way to use these two controls for hot water? I will be running only one hotwater circuit (to an hw-air heat exchanger. I may do something more complicated and will but the 8124 aquastat at that point...but for now is there a wiring diagram that would fit this bill?

If not- I Have a related question- anyone want to trade a will burt 34170, a float type low water cut off, a pressure cut-off with gauge, and 4081 aquastat for a different timer, a 8124 (or equivalent) aquastat and a low water cut off...not a bad deal!

 
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Scottscoaled
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Baseburners & Antiques: Magic Stewart 16, times 2!
Coal Size/Type: Lots of buck
Other Heating: Slant Fin electric boiler backup

Post by Scottscoaled » Fri. Oct. 31, 2014 4:04 pm

What's wrong with the Wilburt timer? They are supposed to be the top of the line. ;)

 
coldinmaine
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Post by coldinmaine » Fri. Oct. 31, 2014 4:16 pm

nothing is wrong with the timer, I'm just not sure if I can use it with a HW boiler (I'm still researching) I'd be willing to trade it (and the other steam components listed) for a set of components that would work for HW.

 
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Sting
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Post by Sting » Fri. Oct. 31, 2014 4:23 pm

coldinmaine wrote:nothing is wrong with the timer, I'm just not sure if I can use it with a HW boiler (I'm still researching) I'd be willing to trade it (and the other steam components listed) for a set of components that would work for HW.
Maybe it would help if you think of your new toy in two parts
one is the energy part - the hot water and the controls that move the energy it contains out to the load you want to heat

The other part is the fire and the timer is part of the controls that administer it -- regardless if you were creating steam or hot water in the part above

OK -- back to party room

 
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Scottscoaled
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Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520, 700, Van Wert 800 GJ 61,53
Baseburners & Antiques: Magic Stewart 16, times 2!
Coal Size/Type: Lots of buck
Other Heating: Slant Fin electric boiler backup

Post by Scottscoaled » Fri. Oct. 31, 2014 4:47 pm

Your Wilburt timer will work fine with the L8124. Hook it up the same way you would any other timer. You won't hook the thermostat to the Wilburt. Your thermostat will go to the tt on the L8124. The 24 volt section of the timer won't be used but that won't matter. The line voltage side will still make timing calls.

 
coldinmaine
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Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old- green furnace
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Post by coldinmaine » Sat. Nov. 01, 2014 2:15 pm

I smashed the tee!...on to the next step.


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