Lit the Crane 404 First Fie

You must be a mind reader Sunny Boy! The other possible plan was a 3/4 inch tube with a ball valve on it blanked off on the other with flat flanges welded to one end and bolted to the other so the cast fire pot can be removed. Drill a series of 1/8 to 5/32 holes along it to send a little to the whole length of coal bed. What are your thoughts? This is all new since installing draft regulator and getting the draft to realistic.

Sounds like an adjustable straight version of the Glenwood #6 gas rings.

Ask Lee (lightning) about his "salt and pepper" tube secondarys.

There's a "hole" thread about them.

Paul

ddahlgren wrote:

Sunny Boy wrote:Try using less primary air and more secondary air. That can act a bit like a check damper, by helping to diluting the over fire flue gases with more low temp air, thus reducing the draft strength.

And it's a good way to experiment with how much secondary air you need to burn off the CO. Watch what happens to the blue ladies as you make damper changes and they will help tell you, in addition to the temp gauges.

Paul

Secondary air is fixed with no adjustment at all. I started a thread in Crane Stoves about adding it seems like a useful tool to me. Right now primary open 1/8 turn secondary fixed and damper 1/2 open draft 0.03 and can't get below 400 on stove top.

before you entertain customizing the secondary tract.

i'd see if you can cut the mano. reading to .02 and if still nec. cut the primaries to 1/16 turn.

i have fixed secondaries on my now suspended fire pot base burner conversion stove, it works perfectly. i'll bet the one on your stove was researched and sized to precision too.

steve

I will see if I can nurse the mano lower and is pretty much what is used burning the evil expensive fuel oil. I worked for a few years in that biz and got my state license as a b2 heating mechanic. Did a reload shakedown and grate poking and the minute I craked load door got the same results. I will do a search on the hole size thread.

I have learned a bunch about old house construction in the last few weeks. The carpenters of the 1870's were a lot more clever than might be initially thought. All the drafts are make up air for the coal stove and allow for some air exchange to keep the house healthy. Stale air will make you sick at some point. The drafty plaster walls become heat sinks that even the heat out once you heat soak them as it takes a lot of time and BTU to do that but once done not much to keep them there. I can run at 575 to 600 for the better part of the day but once warm it only takes 350 or so to keep them there. Tomorrow will drill above MPD to verify the draft though going below 0.02 is not going to happen in my house.

Since the weather has gotten colder the 404 has gotten into it's element, being an attractive heat producing beast.

windyhill4.2 wrote:I like having the baro on mine especially when the wind is blowing as it currently is & has been since last evening ,over 25mph gusts which makes the Magnehelic point up above .05,I've seen 0.10 with the higher gusts.The baro will certainly even the draft out.

I was told to put the manometer below the MPD and did works fine reading it but wonder if above it makes more sense now that I have a draft regulator.. Thoughts anyone?

My personal opinion is you would still want to see what the draft is below the mpd,but I am no expert on that as I only used an mpd when burning wood for 8 yrs & 21 yrs while burning kerosene in a Duo-Therm vented heater.

You want to see what the stove sees, so close to stove.

windyhill4.2 wrote:My personal opinion is you would still want to see what the draft is below the mpd,but I am no expert on that as I only used an mpd when burning wood for 8 yrs & 21 yrs while burning kerosene in a Duo-Therm vented heater.

I have a small manometer for field use pocket size actually and think I will drill a hole above the MPD and set draft regulator there for 0.02 to 0.03 and be comfortable I won't get any CO spilling out above the MPD.