Hitzer 30-95 Draft Question

titleist1 · Post by **titleist1** » Sat. Jan. 17, 2015 10:12 pm

The raw emotion of Baro Vs. MPD can only be equaled by the age old debate of Ginger or Mary Ann!

The basic take away from the debate should be each install is a little different depending on the user preference, stove design, chimney and location of the house so whether you need / use a baro or mpd or both or neither is personal to each install.

Hambden Bob · Post by **Hambden Bob** » Sat. Jan. 17, 2015 10:33 pm

Boy,When it comes to the Subject Of Draft,This Debate Just Blows Me Away !

Oh Yeah,Definite Bad Pun Intended !

In the End,In The End,this is almost like Debating what Tennis Shoes Jesus' Woulda Worn if they'd of been available ! (Yes.I'm looking over my shoulder as the Lightning Bolt approaches me for That One !) This has been an argument for soo long,with soo many Valid Tech Points on both sides,that my Feeble Rear-End Concludes: If Your House Is Warm,If You Haven't Sent All Your Heat Right Up Your Flu,And If You've Maintained Your Black Rock Burner,Then Stay With Your Method ! Life's Really Good When The Heat's On ! Do Understand that Characteristic's of Your Own Burn Situation,From Everything that goes from the Ashpan to the Top Of Your Chimney,Is Your Tailor-Made Set Of Circumstances,So Run It,Run It Clean,Run It Efficient,Run It With No CO In The House,And Most Importantly,Run It Proud,Gentlemen ! Remember,Your Families' Are Counting On You ! Ohh,Yeah,straight from Ol' Uncle Ham,if You're Single,You've Still Got A Family,Namely You ! Take Care Of Your Family !!

joeq · Post by **joeq** » Sat. Jan. 17, 2015 11:22 pm

Then Bob, can we call this thread, "Case Closed?!" Please put a nail in it.

windyhill4.2 · Post by **windyhill4.2** » Sun. Jan. 18, 2015 8:02 am

joeq,i would certainly hope that the OP has the final authority as to when he would want his thread to end.

Yes,there has been opinions offered on both sides of the baro/mpd debate,but if you do not want opposing views & opinions based on facts or personal experience,then a forum like this is a waste of time.I edited my first post in this thread because someone felt it was off topic because I mentioned my stove brand & this is a" Hitzer only thread". I was not trying to sell my brand of stove ,simply trying to point out my experience with the way that I have mine set up.I ran a Duo-Therm kerosene heater with a baro for 21 yrs,wood stoves for 8-10 yrs ,no baro & only a mpd ,now I am burning coal with a Baro. I arrived at that decision after reading the mpd vs baro thread several times. I was actually within a few hrs of shutting the coal stove down & add a mpd when I read that debate again. I read some very interesting safety-based issues that convinced me to forget a mpd & operate my stove with an automatic draft regulator known as a baro & am very pleased with the efficiency results....450* stove top,115* just b4 entering the thimble with only 4' of pipe. Hopefully this post is ok since I mentioned only the Hitzer name in this Hitzer thread.

joeq · Post by **joeq** » Sun. Jan. 18, 2015 9:07 am

I hear what you're saying Dave, and by no means am I saying all the opinions posted aren't worth expressing. I do think a lot of it has become repetitious, and there's an entire thread dedicated to this topic. I understand the OPs concerns about his particular stove, and have no objections to anyone looking for advice to their own application. My comment about "putting a nail in it" may have been a little excessive, and I apologize if anyone took offense to it.

windyhill4.2 · Post by **windyhill4.2** » Sun. Jan. 18, 2015 9:47 am

I've often thought about the repetitiveness of different issues too,do we just post the original thread that applies to the OP's question & cease all further posting on that thread ? Example.... joeq , the stove you recently bought (can't name it here as it would be considered off topic by someone) congratulations on your purchase,if you have any further questions about the stove or how to operate it,type in the info in the search box & make sure this issue has not been discussed 10 yrs ago. If you should find no similar issue discussed,Then & only then can you update your thread with this issue for current members to discuss. Is that what we want from this forum ? Outdated info only ? Example.... I researched all I could find on the forum about Superior coal,the threads were old but only positive. I started no new thread asking any new opinions about the issue. When I got the coal & posted on my boiler install thread as to the brand of coal I got,i got a pm from a member with 2 words, "WRONG COAL",so I should have started a new thread to get an up to date opinion b4 buying.Having been sick most of last winter,i read a lot of threads ALL the way thru & got to see a change of opinions from the same member from back then to current,things do change over the yrs,we hopefully all get smarter as we learn & share what works/doesn't work.It was only after reading the baro vs mpd thread several times that I made my final decision on my install,same with the mano vs magnehelic & etc.So all of this is to point out that we all share our personal opinions,personal experiences & let the OP decide which way is best suited for his application.I've generally heard only good about Hitzer products & hope that the opinions & experiences shared by others here can help the OP find the right solution to run his stove as efficiently as is possible

Hambden Bob · Post by **Hambden Bob** » Sun. Jan. 18, 2015 10:18 am

Let's get a few things straight,from me to all who enjoy this Digital Place: I'm only a State Mod,and I'm no Power-Hungry Napoleon. I've got some Damn Fine Guys serving The Mayor as Moderators. They roam this place from end to end. They're saddled,by choice,with keeping This Playground free from harm. They've gone out of their way to allow Spirit,Depth Of Emotional Warmth,And Feel to the Threads/Topics that We All Enjoy/Contribute to. Most times,if I step into a Thread/Topic,it's just to try to prevent an Impending Trainwreck. Nothing more,Nothing less..... This Place Rocks,most likely due to the Tones The Mayor And His Mods have set to allow Fine Folks to come here,and feel Literally Warm while Learning And Growing In The Coal Burning Discipline. If this Place was A Cold,Starkly Defined And Locked Down With No Human Warmth Allowed Coal Board,it would've failed Years Ago. I'm not The Mayor's Nor Anyone's Suck Pump Toady. I Do Love This Place,and Would Miss It If It Were Gone. Thank God.... You'll All have noticed very few Threads/Topics get Locked. A Healthy Board works that way to a Great Extent. This is a Participate At Will Environment. I can leave it at any time. I can also be Banned if I perform Ignorantly against The Known Goals,Rules,Health And Spirit Of This Place. I would suggest The Original Poster received what he came for,as did many Lurkers,and The General Board Population.....Let's Enjoy That.....

gjambor · Post by **gjambor** » Mon. Jan. 19, 2015 9:19 am

I began this topic and yes, I have gotten all the info I need and more. I should have put it in politics section

because it felt like the red states against the blue states. I am a Ron Paul kinda guy myself. Thank you , case closed !

gjambor · Post by **gjambor** » Sat. Jan. 16, 2016 12:30 pm

Hello everyone, first time back here since last season. During my year end clean out, I installed an MPD (manual pipe damper) in my chimney pipe. So far I can see a major improvement in my burn quality and quantity. I always knew my chimney drafted very well. With the damper open , it pulls about .05-.06. Closed, it runs -03-.01 on a 30 degree day. If I get the stove (Hitzer 30-95) up to temp. around 500 degrees at .05 draft, temp control setting at 8, then close the damper completely, it will draft at .02 and maintain steady for 12 or more hours solid. The ashes I remove are much finer and there is Definitely less waste . Just wanted to update, since this issue arises often and often provokes a heated debate. For my particular install, an mpd is a must. . Everyone's situation varies, I hope this can help others run their stoves at peak heat.

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Sat. Jan. 16, 2016 1:16 pm

gjambor wrote:Hello everyone, first time back here since last season. During my year end clean out, I installed an MPD (manual pipe damper) in my chimney pipe. So far I can see a major improvement in my burn quality and quantity. I always knew my chimney drafted very well. With the damper open , it pulls about .05-.06. Closed, it runs -03-.01 on a 30 degree day. If I get the stove (Hitzer 30-95) up to temp. around 500 degrees at .05 draft, temp control setting at 8, then close the damper completely, it will draft at .02 and maintain steady for 12 or more hours solid. The ashes I remove are much finer and there is Definitely less waste . Just wanted to update, since this issue arises often and often provokes a heated debate. For my particular install, an mpd is a must. . Everyone's situation varies, I hope this can help others run their stoves at peak heat.

Thanks for updating your thread. It helps everyone when a topic is followed up on.

oliver power · Post by **oliver power** » Sat. Jan. 16, 2016 6:48 pm

As I mentioned towards the beginning of this thread, I run both my HITZERs (30-95 & 50-93) with no damper what so ever. They always performed nicely. I've also mentioned in many post, how the 30-95,& 50-93 go through the same amount of coal come tending time. Yet, the 50-93 puts out way more heat. That always told me the 30-95 is less efficient. The 30-95 must have more heat going up the chimney, which is great for poor drafting chimneys. Maybe the damper would help keep some of that heat down. When I first installed my 50-93, I also installed a manual damper for safety reasons only. I didn't see any difference in performance, so pulled it out.

Post by **Lightning** » Sat. Jan. 16, 2016 7:31 pm

gjambor wrote:I always knew my chimney drafted very well. With the damper open , it pulls about .05-.06. Closed, it runs -03-.01 on a 30 degree day. If I get the stove (Hitzer 30-95) up to temp. around 500 degrees at .05 draft, temp control setting at 8, then close the damper completely, it will draft at .02 and maintain steady for 12 or more hours solid

It should also help with thermal efficiency. At weaker negative pressure (-.02) there will be less air coming thru whatever secondary air ports and/ or air washes the stove has.

oliver power · Post by **oliver power** » Sat. Jan. 16, 2016 8:39 pm

Lightning wrote:
gjambor wrote:I always knew my chimney drafted very well. With the damper open , it pulls about .05-.06. Closed, it runs -03-.01 on a 30 degree day. If I get the stove (Hitzer 30-95) up to temp. around 500 degrees at .05 draft, temp control setting at 8, then close the damper completely, it will draft at .02 and maintain steady for 12 or more hours solid
It should also help with thermal efficiency. At weaker negative pressure (-.02) there will be less air coming thru whatever secondary air ports and/ or air washes the stove has.

No secondary air, or air washes for the 30-95. Or, maybe you were speaking in general, stoves that do have additional air.

I don't want to sound like the corrections police.

ncountry · Post by **ncountry** » Sat. Jan. 16, 2016 8:43 pm

I installed a mpd when I installed my 50-93 this fall.. It has been left wide open. I have never had a cause to use it.. I belive what is often missed is how airtight the stove is... An old leaky wood or coal stove that would suck in air from every nook and cranny needs a mpd or baro to control the draft.. Imo a tight stove will only draw in the amount of air you allow.. Works super with a bimetalic damper... When draft is really high the damper is not as open as it would be at a lower draft number to maintain the same stove temp..

Post by **Lightning** » Sat. Jan. 16, 2016 9:27 pm

oliver power wrote:No secondary air, or air washes for the 30-95. Or, maybe you were speaking in general, stoves that do have additional air.

Wow, that's a shocker.. No secondary air at all?
Is there anyway for primary air to get around the coal bed?