Alaska Channing 111 Combustion Motor

I have a Channing 111 with direct vent that I purchased in 2008. Yesterday it started making what I would describe as a grinding noise. The feeder paddle seemed to be moving properly and I could not pin point where the noise was coming from so I used some compressed air on the direct motor and the fan on the combustion motor and it seemed to quiet down. Today it began to make a squealing noise and after I shut it down and started it a few times the combustion motor quit running. I was wondering if anyone has ever replaced their combustion motor on a Channing 111. Looks like there's to small bolts that hold the motor on the airmotor tray, but I'm not sure how to get the combustion wheel off the motor. If anyone could shed some light on how to replace the combustion motor I would appreciate it since I am back to using oil full time and would like to get the stove running again. I checked with the dealer and the combustion motor cost $44.00 which is not to bad considering it's been running for 6 plus seasons.

http://jlproductsite.com/pdf/kast_console.pdf

There is the manual,on page 3 part #7. Remove this bolt and slide the combustion assembly out, there is a snap ring that holds the wheel in place and the 2 bolts that hold the motor in place

have you oiled it? they usually have small hole in them for oiling. my combustion fan on my keystoker after 10 years did the same thing, I kept oiling it after I replaced it and it finally started turning and was really quiet. I put it back in, since the replacement was very noisey. It's been running for the past month with no problems.

thats a pretty good price, Get the model number check a couple sites (ebay, amazon, electricmotorwarehouse) and see what the prices are, and if the dealer in the ball park, go for it. usually pretty easy to replace.

No oil hole that I have seen but mine on the kast counsel quit and all it needed was a good cleaning. You should remove this and clean once a year, clean all the dust out of the cups in the fan wheel also. When you remove this you can also clean under the grate with the right shop vac attachment so no need to the remove the grate and disturb the the gaskets.

Its a good idea to replace the grate gaskets every 3 years though

I have the combustion motor attached to the tray removed and when I plug it into the outlet it just seems to make a humming noise and when I turn the paddle fan on top it will try to run but stops. I think I remember the dealer telling me once that there are no oil ports. The plastic wheel is attached to the shaft, looks like there is a small rubber gasket and the snap ring holding it in place. I just don't see how to remove the ring, I don't want to try to pry it off and break the wheel. Doby do you know how to get the ring off without destroying the wheel and gasket? Thanks for your help. I am going to try to get a replacement motor tomorrow depending on how bad this storm heading our way is, if it's too bad I have to wait until Wednesday. Thanks again for your help. Peter

No it ain't a rubber gasket its part of the wheel with a spring steel ring around it to clamp it to the shaft. I do this all the time with evaporator fans in fridges at work.

Look close there are slots in the wheel right where it slides on to the shaft, get a helper, the helper will take a small flat blade screw drive and place it into one of the slots, then turn to spread the spring steel clamp a bit. While the helper is doing this put your fingers, both hands under the wheel, between the wheel and housing and pull/push up. It'll pop off, Don't pull the clamp off,when you get the new motor, simply slide the the wheel clamp and all right on the shaft.

It'll take some pressure but will slide right on

Hope this make sense

Deleted, I made a mistake trying to edit the post above

Doby Thank you for all your help. I was able to find the slots and after a few tries and a lot of pushing and pulling and with the help of my nephew I was able to get the plastic wheel off. It looks like I will be replacing the wheel also, some how a small section of the wheel had actually melted in one spot so it looks like I'll be replacing the motor and wheel. I hope the new wheel comes with the snap ring on already. I'll talk to the dealer tomorrow and see if he has the wheel in stock and just hope that the storm is late getting here. Thanks again, I would not have been able to get the wheel off without you help. Pete

Hey Doby I just noticed you live out at Elysburg, Pa. My wife and the grandchildren have been going out there for years. We go at least twice each summer to Knoebels, great amusement park for the kids!

, some how a small section of the wheel had actually melted in one spot so it looks like I'll be replacing the motor and wheel

That does not surprise me it gets hot in there, I was actually surprised when I first looked at one and it was plastic, sure would be better if it was aluminum. My first thought was the plastic wheel would warp and rub against the housing but with what you just explained gives me something else to look out for.

I thank you for reporting back and detailing this, I'm going to look into that fan/wheel replacement as it seems to me when the motor goes bad you might as well replace the fan to.

Please report back on how you make out

This its what great about the forum, we all learn

Knoebels,

Yep Pete its great, we are proud of that and the Southern Columbia Tigers

Hey Doby here's a little update on the Channing combustion motor. I was able to get to the dealer yesterday morning and picked up the motor already attached to the airmotor tray with the plastic wheel attached also. It cost $67.50 for the whole kit, I figured it was worth the extra money to just swap out the old tray with the new one with everything already installed. The only problem was the new tray was a snug fit and the fins that go into the little square hold that directs the air to under the grate were not exactly alined right but after a little adjustment I got it installed. I did a little cleaning of the stove, vacuumed the inside, lubricated the feed block, cleaned out the direct vent flue and cleaned under the grate (using that small square hold again) The stove has been running for the last 27 hours and no problems so far. I checked the draft today and it usually reads about .04 well today it was reading between .02 and .03. I really don't understand why the draft changed but the manual says it should be between .02 and .04 so I'm going to leave it alone. I thought it was pretty good that Alaska sells the entire unit, motor, tray and wheel already together, it made things easier. Thanks again for your help and enjoy the rest of the winter in Elysburg.Pete

hole not hold, I guess I should read before posting!

Congrats and great job! That is a pretty good price for the hole assembly I would have done the same.

A couple tid bits I ran into with these stove, remove that tray once a year and clean I think I mentioned before that my motor quit and all it needed was a good cleaning. Right above the combustion assembly there is a aluminum block attached to the paddle feeder, it will have 2 set screws in it, loosen these and drop the block then you can pull the paddle from the hopper and clean the old grease and coal dust out of there and regrease. Sometimes if you don't the grease can harden from the coal dust and bind the paddle feeder and stress the controll box, it happened to me.

Also clean the fan on the convection blower, there gets to be alot of dust in the cups, this will extend its life.

This is all once a year and really easy, thats what I love about these stoves, there so easy to work on.

The draft should be ok was this at full burn? at full burn (1 to 2 inches of ash at the end of the grate) ajust the baro till the manometer reads -,04 make sure you zero it first with the tube removed

mistake