Geneva Oak Andes Stove

 
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Photog200
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Post by Photog200 » Tue. Jan. 27, 2015 8:22 pm

Sunny Boy wrote:Looking terrific Randy.

Beware though. If your using a buffing wheel, Jeweler's rouge can easily cut through the nickel at the edges where buffing/polishing pressure is greatest. Being that the nickel is close to the same "color" as the iron when it's polished you may not notice it went through the nickel until the bare iron edges start to rust.

Paul
Yes, I noticed that happening in a couple of spots that were already thin. For the most part though, it worked out really well. I am VERY happy with how it turned out.

Randy


 
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Post by Pauliewog » Wed. Jan. 28, 2015 1:08 am

Randy

I sent you a link in a PM

Paulie

 
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Photog200
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Post by Photog200 » Wed. Jan. 28, 2015 6:59 am

Photog200 wrote:
Sunny Boy wrote:Looking terrific Randy.

Beware though. If your using a buffing wheel, Jeweler's rouge can easily cut through the nickel at the edges where buffing/polishing pressure is greatest. Being that the nickel is close to the same "color" as the iron when it's polished you may not notice it went through the nickel until the bare iron edges start to rust.

Paul
Yes, I noticed that happening in a couple of spots that were already thin. For the most part though, it worked out really well. I am VERY happy with how it turned out.

Randy
Paul, this is the reason I did not use the rouge at first, I was afraid of that happening. Then I saw how well it was working for John (Buck47). I used the finest rouge so it would not be as course. I have completed all of the nickel and it looks almost like new nickel.

Randy

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Wed. Jan. 28, 2015 7:10 am

In future, the rouge will work just as well, but slower, if it's first applied to a cotton rag and then polish the surfaces by hand. Slower method, but it gives much greater control of the cutting action to lessen the chance of burn-through.

When the piece is finished with polishing, warm the part with a hair dryer as you wipe off the rouge. It gets the abrasive and crud off more easily, while helping to push the rouge's wax binder into the metal to help seal and protect it.

Any textured areas that still show pink after wiping off the rouge, can be cleaned with a solvent. Then wax those areas with a good paste wax.

Paul

 
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Post by Buck47 » Wed. Jan. 28, 2015 8:25 am

Photog200 wrote:I wanted the numbers on the stove front to stand out better so I painted the background around them black.
The effect is stunning. Could black stove polish be used in the background to give the same effect?

BTW: your comment regarding rouge cutting through the plating on edges is very timley. :) Thanks for the heads up.

Regards: john

 
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Photog200
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Post by Photog200 » Wed. Jan. 28, 2015 8:29 am

Buck47 wrote:
Photog200 wrote:I wanted the numbers on the stove front to stand out better so I painted the background around them black.
The effect is stunning. Could black stove polish be used in the background to give the same effect?

BTW: your comment regarding rouge cutting through the plating on edges is very timley. :) Thanks for the heads up.

Regards: john
John, the stove blacking does not stick to the nickel or even the steel stove barrel for that matter. I tried using spray paint and wiping the top surface off while the paint is wet but the rag would remove even some of the background paint. I did not like that effect so I took the time to hand paint it. I am even thinking about doing the same to the base, that would take a lot of time for sure.

Randy

 
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Post by Buck47 » Wed. Jan. 28, 2015 8:36 am

Photog200 wrote:I have spent the last two days polishing the nickel trim on the stove. I originally was just using chrome polish and it was cleaning it but not really bringing it back. John (Buck47) sent me a link to his video of how he was polishing his new Artistic Universal stove. I had all of the stuff here and was amazed at the difference in how it brought the nickel back to life. Randy
Randy: Here is that video, it may be of interest to others. ( Worning: I'm a rank novice at buffing - copy what I'm doing at at your own risk) -

Last edited by Buck47 on Wed. Jan. 28, 2015 8:56 am, edited 3 times in total.


 
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Photog200
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Post by Photog200 » Wed. Jan. 28, 2015 8:43 am

Thanks for posting the video John.

 
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Post by joeq » Wed. Jan. 28, 2015 4:26 pm

X2 John. Nice touch with the music. I have one question tho. Wouldn't it have taken less than 4 hrs on that piece, if you had plugged the motor in? :) (Kidding)

 
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Post by Photog200 » Fri. Jan. 30, 2015 7:54 pm

I was going to post some photos today of the progress but the photos did not looks like much had been done when taken with my iPhone. I spent 4+ hours today painting the background detail black on the nickel pieces. I have about another 4+ hours tomorrow to finish up. You can tell this is not the first time that detail has been painted black. You can see residual paint in some of the areas. I would not be surprised if this is how the stove was sold originally. You can tell this was a premium stove in its day by the way it was made.

Once I get the grate back from the foundry, I will take the stove in the house and I promise I will take out the big camera and studio lights to do this stove proper.

Randy

 
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Post by Photog200 » Sun. Feb. 01, 2015 10:13 am

Good news, I got a call from Tomahawk Foundry yesterday, they already have the grate done and are shipping it out. Now lets hope I did a good enough job of straightening it out!

Randy

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sun. Feb. 01, 2015 10:21 am

Tomahawk does get the work done quickly. I was very pleased with the recast grates, cogs, and other parts they did for my range. The amount of casting shrinkage was exactly what Al told me to compensate my pattern pieces for.

I think you'll be likewise pleased.

Paul

 
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Post by Photog200 » Sun. Feb. 01, 2015 10:37 am

Sunny Boy wrote:Tomahawk does get the work done quickly. I was very pleased with the recast grates, cogs, and other parts they did for my range. The amount of casting shrinkage was exactly what Al told me to compensate my pattern pieces for.

I think you'll be likewise pleased.

Paul
I only sent the one grate to them for now as I wanted to see how this fit. This summer I am planning on sending all of the grates and gears out to be re-cast. I want to have an extra set just in case. I am finding this is a pretty rare stove and is difficult to find parts for it. I made the grate just a hair long knowing there would be a little over 1/8" shrinkage. I figured I would be able to grind a little off but would not be able to stretch it. :D

All that is left to do to finish up the stove is to install the grates and then line the fire pot. Once I get the grate back, one days work will finish it up.

 
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Post by Buck47 » Sun. Feb. 01, 2015 11:06 am

Hi Guys,

How are the shipping cost on cast iron parts? Is that half the cost, or are there ways of shipping that are reasonable?

I have a growing stack of parts to have recast. The foundry is a few hour drive from St. Paul MN where I go often to see family on weekends.

I could do my own delivery & pick up if the cost by common carriers is exorbitant.

Regards: john

 
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Other Heating: Electric Baseboard

Post by Photog200 » Sun. Feb. 01, 2015 11:12 am

Buck47 wrote:Hi Guys,

How are the shipping cost on cast iron parts? Is that half the cost, or are there ways of shipping that are reasonable?

I have a growing stack of parts to have recast. The foundry is a few hour drive from St. Paul MN where I go often to see family on weekends.

I could do my own delivery & pick up if the cost by common carriers is exorbitant.

Regards: john
John, I only sent the one grate this trip and sent it 3 day Priority via USPS. The cost was $23.35 with $200.00 insurance included. If you can fit it in one of their flat rate boxes, it would be cheaper. If you have some large, heavy pieces, you would be better taking them there in person and spend some time with the family. :D

Randy


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