Painting A Boiler

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coalmanjoe
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Post by coalmanjoe » Mon. Feb. 23, 2015 8:19 am

Can anyone tell me if it is absolutely necessary to use high temperature paint on a boiler-----the boiler itself not the jacket. A friend has a reconditioned EFM that was painted with regular oil based enamel and after being in use for 5 years it looks perfect. I know regular paint can be used on cast iron baseboard or radiators and am hoping the same will be fine for my boiler. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Mon. Feb. 23, 2015 9:28 am

For a Hot water boiler to see 200* is very high. Around breech, maybe 350-400* is very high.

So use that for your decision.

 
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StokerDon
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Post by StokerDon » Mon. Feb. 23, 2015 6:58 pm

I don't think high heat paint is needed on a boiler. It's not going to get much over 200 degrees no matter what. I painted this one with Rust-oleum, fast drying, indoor outdoor paint.
PaintedBoiler 005.JPG
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PaintedBoiler 002.JPG
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PaintedBoiler 006.JPG
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Hasn't burned off yet!
FeedrateFlame2 006.JPG
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-Don


 
coalmanjoe
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Post by coalmanjoe » Mon. Feb. 23, 2015 7:44 pm

Thanks for the reply Don. You did a fantastic job on yours. Is that a Yellow Flame or Keystoker?

 
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Post by Mikeeg02 » Mon. Feb. 23, 2015 9:05 pm

I used high temperature paint on my axeman. It smelled for about a week, but once it cures, it's tough as nails. I found that painting the underside of the flapper on the view port is a no no and had to wire wheel it clean. It was quite tough to remove the paint with a grinder with a wire wheel on it. I wouldn't hesitate to spend the extra again on the stuff.

Surface prep is a must though.

 
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StokerDon
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Post by StokerDon » Tue. Feb. 24, 2015 7:44 pm

coalmanjoe wrote:Thanks for the reply Don. You did a fantastic job on yours. Is that a Yellow Flame or Keystoker?
It's an old Yellow Flame. It's in great shape for 40, 50, 60? years old. In it's original home it was run 24/7, 365 days a year. Not much in the way of corrosion at all.

-Don


 
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dave brode
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Post by dave brode » Sat. Feb. 28, 2015 1:41 pm

Other paints may do ok, but imo, this is the very best option. It is pricey, but it goes a long way.

http://www.por15.com/Rust-Preventive-Coating_c_11.html

I used it on my 14 ga flue. Trying to force my Kaa2 to give me more than it's designed to give, flue gas temps have been as high as 500F. It looks the same today.

Very hard glassy appearance. It will go over a lightly rusted surface, but sand blasting is best. I merely sanded the coated 14ga tubing flue with 80 grit and brushed two coats. Apply 2nd coat when the 1st coat is just tacky enough to drag on your finger. If it fingerprints, it's too soon. One coat is not enough, it goes on very thin. I believe that it hold up VERY well to bucket placement inside the ash box. There are spots of it on my basement floor that dripped during car under chassis painting that have been there 15 yrs.

Excuse the dust, and the scuff marks on the wall trim piece. It had some dirt, never got to re-coating that.

Dave

p.s. - as far as coverage, one of the little six pack cans did two coats on a Model T differential with some to spare. Once you open a can, you need to use it. It'll be bad in less than a week.

Attachments

flue 2.JPG
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flue 3.JPG
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flue 1.JPG
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Vampiro
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Post by Vampiro » Thu. Mar. 05, 2015 8:13 pm

Do not paint the boiler using regular paint. They make high temperature paint for a reason. Boiler manufacturers use high temp paint for a few reasons, and one of them is safety. These paints withstand high temperature and moisture. They are also durable. Regular paints can retain moisture which will cause corrosion of the metal surface. Even on metal boiler jackets, boiler manufacturers use high temp enamel.

 
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Pauliewog
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Post by Pauliewog » Thu. Mar. 05, 2015 11:32 pm

:bang:
dave brode wrote:Other paints may do ok, but imo, this is the very best option. It is pricey, but it goes a long way.

http://www.por15.com/Rust-Preventive-Coating_c_11.html

I used it on my 14 ga flue. Trying to force my Kaa2 to give me more than it's designed to give, flue gas temps have been as high as 500F. It looks the same today.

Very hard glassy appearance. It will go over a lightly rusted surface, but sand blasting is best. I merely sanded the coated 14ga tubing flue with 80 grit and brushed two coats. Apply 2nd coat when the 1st coat is just tacky enough to drag on your finger. If it fingerprints, it's too soon. One coat is not enough, it goes on very thin. I believe that it hold up VERY well to bucket placement inside the ash box. There are spots of it on my basement floor that dripped during car under chassis painting that have been there 15 yrs.

Excuse the dust, and the scuff marks on the wall trim piece. It had some dirt, never got to re-coating that.

Dave

p.s. - as far as coverage, one of the little six pack cans did two coats on a Model T differential with some to spare. Once you open a can, you need to use it. It'll be bad in less than a week.
Hey Dave,

I've used it for years and agree its the best paint restoration product I ever worked with.

The only thing I have to add is pay attention to the warning ...... They strongly recommend wearing gloves when applying. If I recall their slogan is something like this ..................... If you get it on your hands it will wear off before it washes off.

Ask me how I know its true ....... :bang:

Paulie

 
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dave brode
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Location: Frostburg, Maryland [western]
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-2
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: used to have a 5 section Red Square
Coal Size/Type: rice anthracite

Post by dave brode » Mon. Mar. 09, 2015 9:59 pm

Paulie,

Been there. Got the t-shirt!

Dave

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