Hopper on My Hearth Rotted Through
- av8r
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I just noticed the hopper on my hearth model is about to burst through in several spots from corrosion/rot. Is this normal? It's always left empty in the off season.
I found this website where I thought could order parts, but all it does is drill down to the part you want, with no images, prices, etc and then suggest you find a dealer. http://www.leisurelinestoves.com/parts-accessories/ Are parts only available through a dealer?
I found this website where I thought could order parts, but all it does is drill down to the part you want, with no images, prices, etc and then suggest you find a dealer. http://www.leisurelinestoves.com/parts-accessories/ Are parts only available through a dealer?
- Uglysquirrel
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The hopper damage is most likely due to wet coal. Seen it in others, not just LL.av8r wrote:I just noticed the hopper on my hearth model is about to burst through in several spots from corrosion/rot. Is this normal? It's always left empty in the off season.
I found this website where I thought could order parts, but all it does is drill down to the part you want, with no images, prices, etc and then suggest you find a dealer. http://www.leisurelinestoves.com/parts-accessories/ Are parts only available through a dealer?
Cure is drying out the coal in a bin or buying bagged coal a summer before burning it. No corrosion results. Also no rust in the stoker.
You may be able to epoxy or silicone ~18 or so gage metal sheets inside the bin to hold you over.....
- Flyer5
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Wet coal and also poor draft is the cause. Leaving coal during long term storage. I don't mean getting the coal out but the coal dust as well must be wiped out. The dust is just as acidic. If you see sweat on the hopper lid draft is low and will cause problems.
- av8r
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Thanks. Never had any condensation in/on the hopper. Both spots that have rotted are where small holes were drilled at the factory. No rot anywhere else. No coal or dust left in the hopper in the off season.Flyer5 wrote:Wet coal and also poor draft is the cause. Leaving coal during long term storage. I don't mean getting the coal out but the coal dust as well must be wiped out. The dust is just as acidic. If you see sweat on the hopper lid draft is low and will cause problems.
I stuck a piece of corrugated stock in there for now (back side of hopper) so the coal doesn't leak out and have already cut some 1/8 stainless sheet that I'll attach before next winter.
I may fab up a new hopper out of stainless just to get some practice with my Tig. I've always wanted to change the hopper shape to reduce the tunneling effect that happens when coal is used.
- davidmcbeth3
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FYI...I did this to my Hitzer hopper that has been plagued with the same issue for years, requiring replacement of hopper again and again [welded on some 25 ga SS to expected effected areas] ... yeah, it did not do much good from what I can see...I'll be posting pics. Next solution to try? A SS plate with a thermoset coating application, some coating corrosion resistant...still thinking ... thinking...av8r wrote:Thanks. Never had any condensation in/on the hopper. Both spots that have rotted are where small holes were drilled at the factory. No rot anywhere else. No coal or dust left in the hopper in the off season.Flyer5 wrote:Wet coal and also poor draft is the cause. Leaving coal during long term storage. I don't mean getting the coal out but the coal dust as well must be wiped out. The dust is just as acidic. If you see sweat on the hopper lid draft is low and will cause problems.
I stuck a piece of corrugated stock in there for now (back side of hopper) so the coal doesn't leak out and have already cut some 1/8 stainless sheet that I'll attach before next winter.
I may fab up a new hopper out of stainless just to get some practice with my Tig. I've always wanted to change the hopper shape to reduce the tunneling effect that happens when coal is used.
Looks like we both don't mind welding .... I mig weld ... Great minds think alike, right?
- av8r
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What alloy SS did you use and when you say it isn't working do you mean it's rotting thru like the mild steel from the original hopper?davidmcbeth3 wrote: FYI...I did this to my Hitzer hopper that has been plagued with the same issue for years, requiring replacement of hopper again and again [welded on some 25 ga SS to expected effected areas] ... yeah, it did not do much good from what I can see...I'll be posting pics. Next solution to try? A SS plate with a thermoset coating application, some coating corrosion resistant...still thinking ... thinking...
Looks like we both don't mind welding .... I mig weld ... Great minds think alike, right?
I have mig, tig, stick and oxy/fuel. I'm not great at any of them, but I like burning metal.
- davidmcbeth3
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I don't recall the specific grade but it was a grade I got to resist corrosion as I bought it specifically for this application.av8r wrote:What alloy SS did you use and when you say it isn't working do you mean it's rotting thru like the mild steel from the original hopper?davidmcbeth3 wrote: FYI...I did this to my Hitzer hopper that has been plagued with the same issue for years, requiring replacement of hopper again and again [welded on some 25 ga SS to expected effected areas] ... yeah, it did not do much good from what I can see...I'll be posting pics. Next solution to try? A SS plate with a thermoset coating application, some coating corrosion resistant...still thinking ... thinking...
Looks like we both don't mind welding .... I mig weld ... Great minds think alike, right?
I have mig, tig, stick and oxy/fuel. I'm not great at any of them, but I like burning metal.
- Flyer5
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All our new hoppers are being made with stainless. The Pioneers have been for the past year. I believe all the hearth , lil heater and Pocono/110 boiler hoppers are also. We did not want to say anything till they were all switched over which I believe now we are but not sure about the hyfire or furnace hoppers. We did so without changing our pricing. But we wanted to do a better product but had a lot of sheet metal cut out already and had to use it.
- av8r
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So if I order a replacement hopper will it be stainless or mild steel? I was quoted nearly $180 for the hopper so if I buy one, I'd like it to last a little longer than 5 years.Flyer5 wrote:All our new hoppers are being made with stainless. The Pioneers have been for the past year. I believe all the hearth , lil heater and Pocono/110 boiler hoppers are also. We did not want to say anything till they were all switched over which I believe now we are but not sure about the hyfire or furnace hoppers. We did so without changing our pricing. But we wanted to do a better product but had a lot of sheet metal cut out already and had to use it.
- Flyer5
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My mistake the hearth and lil heater hopper inventory is still the old Galvalume. And will be a little while before we exhaust the inventory. We may be to stainless by the fall. Again we are not charging more for the Stainless so it isn't like we are cheating. But we need to use up at least most of our old inventory first. Rust is something none of the manufactures have any control over. The only way to prevent it is to only use dry coal and occasionally wipe the inside with anti-corrosive agent. Spring, clean out all dust and again treat with wd-40 or similar. Not sure what the formula is. I talk to customers that have hoppers for 15yrs or more and no problems and some 4-5 yrs that need to replace them. My brother has the same hopper as you for over 5yrs and it is fine so I cannot explain yours. Maybe some coal veins are more corrosive and more sulfur than others. Maybe someone else can answer that.
- Rick 386
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My Alaska Stoker II is over 20 years old and is finally getting close to rotting through on the outboard side.
My Hyfire II is still going strong and I think I have that for almost 10 years now. And I don't do anything to either of them. In fact sometimes I have left the hopper 1/2 full through the summer.
Perhaps after rebuilding the hopper you may want to spray some undercoating or maybe even some bed liner type coating on the inside where the coal meats the metal for corrosion resistance.
Rick
My Hyfire II is still going strong and I think I have that for almost 10 years now. And I don't do anything to either of them. In fact sometimes I have left the hopper 1/2 full through the summer.
Perhaps after rebuilding the hopper you may want to spray some undercoating or maybe even some bed liner type coating on the inside where the coal meats the metal for corrosion resistance.
Rick
- davidmcbeth3
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What grade of SS may I ask?Flyer5 wrote:All our new hoppers are being made with stainless. The Pioneers have been for the past year. I believe all the hearth , lil heater and Pocono/110 boiler hoppers are also. We did not want to say anything till they were all switched over which I believe now we are but not sure about the hyfire or furnace hoppers. We did so without changing our pricing. But we wanted to do a better product but had a lot of sheet metal cut out already and had to use it.
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I noticed year after year my hearth model hopper showing more corrosion, so when I bought my 110 boiler before I installed it I put 2 nice heavy wet coats of POR15 paint in the hopper and I have not a bit of corrosion after 3 years. Also, the coal does not stick. My coal is always wet.
- davidmcbeth3
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Thanks for the note...maybe I'll put on 100 coats ! LOLjeff216410 wrote:I noticed year after year my hearth model hopper showing more corrosion, so when I bought my 110 boiler before I installed it I put 2 nice heavy wet coats of POR15 paint in the hopper and I have not a bit of corrosion after 3 years. Also, the coal does not stick. My coal is always wet.
At least my hopper only sets me back $100 ...