Newest Member of Broken Shaft on Shaker Grate Club.

Post by **Lightning** » Sun. Mar. 22, 2015 1:56 pm

ncpajohn wrote:I thought I saw a post about the hot water melting some insulation on the pipe, and also about having to run hot water into the tub to relieve the system. ?

Ah, yes I think that was another one of SMITTY's happenings lol. His boiler got too hot or something.

I don't remember exactly..

For the tub thing you are referring to, that was me. I would fill the tub with hot water because my temper tank was getting too warm (over 160 degrees) during times of high heat demand thru winter's coldest days. I only had to fill the tub a couple times. Normally my temper tank stays in a healthy range of 110-140 degrees.

ncpajohn wrote:But what do I set the baro at initially. ? The stove manufacturers recommendation of .06 then it will vary according to outside conditions. ??

Well, that depends on your chimney and outside conditions. My best advise to you would be to set the baro during a moderate fire at a few hours into the burn cycle when everything has stabilized after a reload and recovery. Set it so that the door on the baro starts to open at around -.03 to -.04.. Don't get consumed with trying to keep it at -.06.. You may not be able to. -.06 is the maximum you should ever see on the mano except during high wind gusts. It may spike high for a second or two and return to under -.06 when its windy out.

ncpajohn wrote:Also I saw it said the Manometer can help show when the fly ash is building up in the stovepipe. How does that work,: if the Mano reading will vary according to the outside weather conditions. ??

Right, you will learn thru experience when you should be seeing a higher reading. If it's February and you haven't done any cleaning of fly ash in the pipe, you might notice the mano isn't reading as high as it should be. This would be a likely scenario that fly ash is choking the pipe somewhere. But there are many other reasons that it's reading low too.. Like possibly a clean out door on the chimney was pushed open by a puff back or something.

ncpajohn · Post by **ncpajohn** » Sun. Mar. 22, 2015 7:27 pm

Lightning,,

Is it feasible to install the water tubes in the air exchange jacket just touching the outside of the firebox so they are not inside the firebox, to get exposed to the flyash. Also this way it would not be required to drill through the firebox, and have to seal it around the pipe. If I just use the water for dhw can I get by with just one coil. ?? or pipe the two together for the supply and return to the pre heat tank. I see you use one for the hot tub.

Post by **Lightning** » Sun. Mar. 22, 2015 7:42 pm

ncpajohn wrote:Is it feasible to install the water tubes in the air exchange jacket just touching the outside of the firebox so they are not inside the firebox, to get exposed to the flyash. Also this way it would not be required to drill through the firebox, and have to seal it around the pipe. If I just use the water for dhw can I get by with just one coil. ?? or pipe the two together for the supply and return to the pre heat tank. I see you use one for the hot tub.

Yes one coil is enough but, it NEEDS to be in the firebox. It won't pick up enough usable heat on the outside. These coils are meant to be inside, fly ash isn't a problem as long as they are cleaned and coated at the end of the heating season. Moisture doesn't do harm while the fire box is hot.

ncpajohn · Post by **ncpajohn** » Sun. Mar. 22, 2015 10:58 pm

I just found this article for anyone interested it gives details about height and distance of drop for cold water feed on a thermo siphon hot water system. http://www.sustainablepreparedness.com/index.php/ ... cook-stove.

ncpajohn · Post by **ncpajohn** » Mon. Mar. 23, 2015 7:21 am

does the fly ash accumulate in the vertical stovepipe also, Similar to creosote., ?? I understand it is just a light ash. ?? Or just in the horizontal pipe runs. ??

Post by **Lightning** » Mon. Mar. 23, 2015 8:40 am

ncpajohn wrote:does the fly ash accumulate in the vertical stovepipe also, Similar to creosote., ?? I understand it is just a light ash. ?? Or just in the horizontal pipe runs. ??

Mainly in horizontal sections of pipe and also at the bottom of a vertical section, like the base of the chimney.

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Mon. Mar. 23, 2015 8:51 am

ncpajohn wrote:does the fly ash accumulate in the vertical stovepipe also, Similar to creosote., ?? I understand it is just a light ash. ?? Or just in the horizontal pipe runs. ??

I might see a 1/16" - 1/8" in some spots of the vertical pipe and a gentle tap on occasion will send most of it up the pipe on a nice windy-high drafting day...just wait for the right condition.

Elbows and horizontal runs are the most accumulative places.

ncpajohn · Post by **ncpajohn** » Mon. Mar. 23, 2015 2:23 pm

Lightning, I see you are in Olean, I am about 60 miles from you. In Pa. I found a place called Southern Tier coal in woodhull, Ny. That carries Blaschak coal. Are you familiar with that place and if so what is your experience with their coal. I called and they want 242.00 ton + 40.00 del.
no matter how big a load. I am about 25 miles from them.
I have been getting my coal in Coudersport, Pa from Hershey farms market for 230.00 ton + 60.00 del. fee.. they have Reading coal.

Thanks.

ncpajohn · Post by **ncpajohn** » Mon. Mar. 23, 2015 2:43 pm

Also, I noticed my nut coal does not heat as well as the stove coal I tried. I am getting pretty steady 350* to 400* but it is only keeping the house at about 62 - 64 I want to get it up to at least 72 - 74*. I want to try a mix like Lightning does. Do you get it evenly mixed from your supplier or do you mix it yourself. ?

Post by **Lightning** » Mon. Mar. 23, 2015 3:10 pm

I get my coal (bulk delivery) from a guy that operates his own delivery business in Smethport PA. I can share his name and number with you if you are interested. It's excellent coal, white ash. He charges me $235 per ton which includes delivery. I'm sure distance is a factor in the per ton cost. I asked him to mix 3 tons nut with 3 tons stove size for me. He brought all 6 tons in one trip.

ncpajohn wrote:I noticed my nut coal does not heat as well as the stove coal I tried. I am getting pretty steady 350* to 400* but it is only keeping the house at about 62 - 64 I want to get it up to at least 72 - 74*.

Stove size will burn hotter and faster easier than nut size. As the coal dumps into my basement, the sizes will separate somewhat. The bigger coal tends to roll to the other side of the bin and the smaller coal tends to stay under the coal chute door. This is advantageous since I can dig from one side of the bin when I want a hot quickly recovering fire during really cold out, then I can dig under the coal chute door for smaller size when I need a cooler slower fire during warmer days.

ncpajohn · Post by **ncpajohn** » Mon. Mar. 23, 2015 3:36 pm

Yes Please PM me his contact info. I did hear about him from a stove dealer called Odin wood products, He sells lumber and has over 300 stoves in stock from what he said.
Thanks, Again..