Changing to a Stoker
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- Member
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- Location: catskills, New York State
- Stoker Coal Boiler: KA6 Keystoker
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harmon TLC 2000
- Coal Size/Type: Rice, Nut
- Other Heating: oil
I’m trying to decide if I should eliminate my oil fired boiler with the install of the keystroke or KA 6.
The question is, should I circulate hot water between the two boilers, or should I shut off boiler altogether. Which would be more efficient? I’ve been told it’s better to keep a boiler warm, or it might start leaking. I do have an automatic draft damper installed on the oil boiler so I am not losing a lot of heat up the chimney. Any ideas? I know if I hooked up the new boiler directly I can save a small amount of electric because it eliminates the constantly running circulator between the two boiler. I forgot to mention I currently run a hand fired boiler that uses the circulator to constantly circulator between the two.
The question is, should I circulate hot water between the two boilers, or should I shut off boiler altogether. Which would be more efficient? I’ve been told it’s better to keep a boiler warm, or it might start leaking. I do have an automatic draft damper installed on the oil boiler so I am not losing a lot of heat up the chimney. Any ideas? I know if I hooked up the new boiler directly I can save a small amount of electric because it eliminates the constantly running circulator between the two boiler. I forgot to mention I currently run a hand fired boiler that uses the circulator to constantly circulator between the two.
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- Location: Ithaca, New York
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4-1 dual fuel boiler
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: former switzer CWW100-sold
- Coal Size/Type: rice
- Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused
As Sting would say "depends". You can eliminate two boilers and the circulating pump
to balance the temperature between the two boilers by purchasing a dual fuel keystoker
and saving the second circulating pump as a spare.
It eliminates the dual plumbing and wiring anyway which reduces the potential for leaks.
I have a 27 year old oil fired boiler and a 34 year old hand fed wood and coal fired boiler and I will be replacing
the mess with a dual fuel KAA-4-1 and using my existing Reillo Burner in the keystoker KAA-4-1.
I shut my boilers off in the summer and do not fire them up until the heating season. The more important concern is keeping the boiler warm in the off season months to reduce condensation and the resulting rust AND cleaning the heating surface with a boiler brush and vacuuming out the flue piping.
A dual fuel unit eliminates a second chimney if you have a tile lined chimney.
to balance the temperature between the two boilers by purchasing a dual fuel keystoker
and saving the second circulating pump as a spare.
It eliminates the dual plumbing and wiring anyway which reduces the potential for leaks.
I have a 27 year old oil fired boiler and a 34 year old hand fed wood and coal fired boiler and I will be replacing
the mess with a dual fuel KAA-4-1 and using my existing Reillo Burner in the keystoker KAA-4-1.
I shut my boilers off in the summer and do not fire them up until the heating season. The more important concern is keeping the boiler warm in the off season months to reduce condensation and the resulting rust AND cleaning the heating surface with a boiler brush and vacuuming out the flue piping.
A dual fuel unit eliminates a second chimney if you have a tile lined chimney.
- coaledsweat
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I'm not a fan of dual fuel units. By there very nature, one side will have an efficiency problem due to design. Quite often a problem with one can leave you with both sides inoperable. Two seperate units gives you 100% backup.
As far as the plumbing, it is a matter of preference. Tying them has heat loses but extends the life of the unit not in use.
As far as the plumbing, it is a matter of preference. Tying them has heat loses but extends the life of the unit not in use.
- Sting
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- Other Heating: OBSO Lennox Pulse "Air Scorcher" burning NG
Primary - Secondary piping sounds dramatic.
But if you take a few hours to read and understand the fundamentals, the reality is very simple = fault tolerant - because multiple heat energy sources provide redundancy and the whole business can be sized and run quite efficiently.
Kine Regards
Sting
BTW - books and a few hours are cheep compared to years of poor service from your heating system
But if you take a few hours to read and understand the fundamentals, the reality is very simple = fault tolerant - because multiple heat energy sources provide redundancy and the whole business can be sized and run quite efficiently.
Kine Regards
Sting
BTW - books and a few hours are cheep compared to years of poor service from your heating system
- Rob R.
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr
A nice compromise is to pipe them in parallel, circulate between the two only on heat calls, and allow gravity circulation between the two boilers when nothing is calling for heat. I have done this on two systems, and it keeps everything at a nice stable temperature while using less electric than full time circulation.
- Rob R.
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr
If you have a functional (and reliable) oil boiler, I would leave it in place. It is very inexpensive to set it up to automatically come on if the house temperature drops below a certain temperature...you may never need that capability, but it is sure nice to have. I got to find out this past winter when the aquastat on my coal boiler decided to quit.
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- Posts: 180
- Joined: Sun. Oct. 26, 2008 5:19 pm
- Location: catskills, New York State
- Stoker Coal Boiler: KA6 Keystoker
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harmon TLC 2000
- Coal Size/Type: Rice, Nut
- Other Heating: oil
that easy to say for one who can understand all that stuff. I just need things simple for me to get it.Sting wrote:Primary - Secondary piping sounds dramatic.
But if you take a few hours to read and understand the fundamentals, the reality is very simple = fault tolerant - because multiple heat energy sources provide redundancy and the whole business can be sized and run quite efficiently.
Kine Regards
Sting
BTW - books and a few hours are cheep compared to years of poor service from your heating system
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- Member
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Sun. Oct. 26, 2008 5:19 pm
- Location: catskills, New York State
- Stoker Coal Boiler: KA6 Keystoker
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harmon TLC 2000
- Coal Size/Type: Rice, Nut
- Other Heating: oil
the coal boiler is in a remote location (shed) while the oil boiler is in the basement. Thats an interesting idea though. I do get some circulation between the two now without a flow valve inline. Is there somewhere I can see the wiring for that setup here?Rob R. wrote:A nice compromise is to pipe them in parallel, circulate between the two only on heat calls, and allow gravity circulation between the two boilers when nothing is calling for heat. I have done this on two systems, and it keeps everything at a nice stable temperature while using less electric than full time circulation.
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- Member
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Sun. Oct. 26, 2008 5:19 pm
- Location: catskills, New York State
- Stoker Coal Boiler: KA6 Keystoker
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harmon TLC 2000
- Coal Size/Type: Rice, Nut
- Other Heating: oil
I have used it with the return valve closed to the oil boiler so the circulators return to the coal boiler which pushes the hot water into the oil boiler and out to the zones.Rob R. wrote:A nice compromise is to pipe them in parallel, circulate between the two only on heat calls, and allow gravity circulation between the two boilers when nothing is calling for heat. I have done this on two systems, and it keeps everything at a nice stable temperature while using less electric than full time circulation.
- Sting
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- Location: Lower Fox Valley = Wisconsin
- Other Heating: OBSO Lennox Pulse "Air Scorcher" burning NG
Listen to Dan - have a plan just in case the kind folks at the ER invite you to stay with them for one more night!
Open your mind and read just one book
http://store.heatinghelp.com/Primary-Secondary-Pu ... -p/129.htm
before you assume its not simple!
Open your mind and read just one book
http://store.heatinghelp.com/Primary-Secondary-Pu ... -p/129.htm
before you assume its not simple!
- Rob R.
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 18004
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
- Location: Chazy, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr
Can you put the stoker boiler in the basement? You would save a fair amount of coal by doing so.GaryFerg wrote:the coal boiler is in a remote location (shed) while the oil boiler is in the basement. Thats an interesting idea though. I do get some circulation between the two now without a flow valve inline. Is there somewhere I can see the wiring for that setup here?Rob R. wrote:A nice compromise is to pipe them in parallel, circulate between the two only on heat calls, and allow gravity circulation between the two boilers when nothing is calling for heat. I have done this on two systems, and it keeps everything at a nice stable temperature while using less electric than full time circulation.
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- Member
- Posts: 180
- Joined: Sun. Oct. 26, 2008 5:19 pm
- Location: catskills, New York State
- Stoker Coal Boiler: KA6 Keystoker
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harmon TLC 2000
- Coal Size/Type: Rice, Nut
- Other Heating: oil
Sting wrote:Listen to Dan - have a plan just in case the kind folks at the ER invite you to stay with them for one more night!
Open your mind and read just one book
http://store.heatinghelp.com/Primary-Secondary-Pu ... -p/129.htm
before you assume its not simple!
okay ok I bought your stupid book got it today we will see how much my feeble mind can get!