Hit Me With Your Stove Shut Down Procedures

 
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ChrisS
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Posts: 125
Joined: Thu. Oct. 09, 2014 1:48 pm
Location: Bethlehem, PA
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Keystoker Koker
Coal Size/Type: Rice, Blaschak, Lehigh Anthracite
Other Heating: Heat Pump (set to "OFF" now), Propane FP insert

Post by ChrisS » Thu. Apr. 23, 2015 2:08 pm

[/quote]
Unless your stove is in a really damp place, like a cellar, my vote is not to cover anything, just leave doors loose and let the air circulate freely. The only time I have had significant rusting was when I sealed things up so the humidity was trapped.[/quote]

It's in the basement, typical cool, potentially damp area.


 
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Lightning
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Posts: 14658
Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
Location: Olean, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite

Post by Lightning » Thu. Apr. 23, 2015 3:57 pm

:nice:
Keepaeyeonit wrote:Ok boys I think I have a one of a kind situation, I have a insert piped directly into the bottom of the clay and removing the pipe without removing the stove isn't a option, this will be my second summer without removal so we will see how the pipe handles the second summer .
I clean the chimney and pipe with brushes, then vacuum it the best I can, then the stove( I gut the stove of anything that I can remove, vacuum and wipe with a rag and vacuum it one more time) I use a mix of Cortex 369 and 325 to coat every inch of the inside of the stove then reinstall all the parts for next fall.
I put (2) 75W bulbs( I only have 40W right now) and (2) large Damp-Rid buckets(recycled from the camper over the winter) cover the baro with Cortex wrap to seal off the stove.
Nice job! I do all that too - vacuum, damp rid, light bulb and coating. I may try the LPS3 this year instead of brushing motor oil on the inside. Motor oil can be scary at start up time...

Scary Experience Lighting the Coal Furnace

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