EFM S20 Stoker, Destination Losch???

 
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StokerDon
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Post by StokerDon » Mon. May. 25, 2015 7:50 pm

hotblast1357 wrote:Well then the New Yorker being 19/3/4 X 19" sounds like a perfect candidate for it! :D
HB you have enough room inside your New Yorker but, you will have a hard time feeding wood into the auger. I wonder if EFM makes a wood auger???

-Don

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Mon. May. 25, 2015 8:08 pm

Ha why on gods green earth would I put wood in it???

 
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StokerDon
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor GJ-5, Van Wert VA-600, Axeman Anderson130 X3.
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Harman SF3500 reduced down to 3 grates connected to its own plenum
Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood

Post by StokerDon » Mon. May. 25, 2015 8:26 pm

hotblast1357 wrote:Ha why on gods green earth would I put wood in it???
I thought you wanted the handfired boiler in case coal became difficult to get up there. Then you could burn wood. Sorry, maybe that was someone else.

-Don


 
Dave 1234
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Post by Dave 1234 » Mon. May. 25, 2015 10:07 pm

Don,
I have about 2'' or less from the ring to my closest point of the interior wall of the boiler. Do you have space to lower the pot a bit ?

As I was saying ash only hangs up a little at that one spot.

Or, I see that you are very creative, can you construct an ash ''wiper-wand'' that moves past this area. The crank action of the gear box can motivate it with a spring for the return. The ash will break up easy .

Dave

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Tue. May. 26, 2015 5:20 am

StokerDon wrote:
hotblast1357 wrote:Ha why on gods green earth would I put wood in it???
I thought you wanted the handfired boiler in case coal became difficult to get up there. Then you could burn wood. Sorry, maybe that was someone else.

-Don
Oh yes that was me, I would just put it back to original shaker grates.

 
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Post by Pacowy » Tue. May. 26, 2015 9:31 am

From stoker-man's info it looks like that stoker is from 1960 - Post by stoker-man - Dating S-15, S-20, S-22, S-30, S-35, S-45 Stokers .

The clearance requirement spec'd by EFM for installing a stationary pot is 6.5" of diameter (i.e., open space of 3.25" all the way around the pot) . Lower clearances are ok on the rotating pot units.

The S-20 burns wood very nicely. Just make it into pellets first. :lol:

Mike


 
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Post by Scottscoaled » Tue. May. 26, 2015 4:24 pm

I think you could cut the ring down an inch or more and it would work. You would have to do something different about the 2" ash ring that seems to be the indicator of a "proper" fire. Guess you would have to go by the 1" or less ash ring. It works with a Van Wert so why not an EFM? Thanks for going to the other side Don! Your getting there, just a little at a time. The ash rings are cheap. Take the pot apart. Try to break the stove bolts that hold it together. New ones are only .30 a piece. they break easily with a hammer and chisel. New gaskets and a pot bushing if you are serious.

 
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StokerDon
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor GJ-5, Van Wert VA-600, Axeman Anderson130 X3.
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Harman SF3500 reduced down to 3 grates connected to its own plenum
Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood

Post by StokerDon » Tue. May. 26, 2015 7:43 pm

Thanks for all the great replies guys! Wow, 1960, it is an old one! The pot will have to come appart for new gaskets and it looks like there are 2 cracked grates, I couldn't see that before.

Option #1 would have the stoker go in the back like normal and the feed pipe would go through the exaust passage in the base and out the front.

Option #2 would have the stoker go in through 1 side and the feed pipe would go out the other side.

Here are some measurments to explore option #1, Front to Back orientation;

This is about what we are look'in at.
EFMtoLOSCH 004.JPG
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EFMtoLOSCH 005.JPG
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Gonna need a longer pipe and auger for this to work.
EFMtoLOSCH 007.JPG
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The Losch base is about 21" wide. The S20 plate is 18" wide, no problem there.
EFMtoLOSCH 008.JPG
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You can see the Losch 475 boiler is on the narrow side of things.
EFMtoLOSCH 009.JPG
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I would put the pot about 3" lower than it is there.
EFMtoLOSCH 012.JPG
.JPG | 154.7KB | EFMtoLOSCH 012.JPG
If I put the stoker in through the back like this and just bolted the plate on the back of the base, 3.75" of the pot would be under the back edge of the boiler. The whole stoker would have to go about 7.5" further into the boiler to get the 3.75" ashing distance in the back of the pot.
EFMtoLOSCH 015.JPG
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The side to side inside dimention of the boiler is a shade under 15.5"
EFMtoLOSCH 019.JPG
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From the plate to the front edge of the pot is just over 20"
EFMtoLOSCH 013.JPG
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It looks like I can only cut about 3/4" off the side of the ring. That would only leave about 1.75" on the sides for ashing. That is realy tight!

-Don

 
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Post by Scottscoaled » Tue. May. 26, 2015 8:51 pm

Use white ash coal.

 
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StokerDon
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor GJ-5, Van Wert VA-600, Axeman Anderson130 X3.
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Harman SF3500 reduced down to 3 grates connected to its own plenum
Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood

Post by StokerDon » Thu. May. 28, 2015 7:39 pm

Good point Scott. The white ash coal will clinker up less, with less ashing problems.

Here are some photos of what Option #2 would look like.
LoschToEFM 001.JPG
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LoschToEFM 003.JPG
.JPG | 137.6KB | LoschToEFM 003.JPG
LoschToEFM 005.JPG
.JPG | 93.6KB | LoschToEFM 005.JPG
LoschToEFM 006.JPG
.JPG | 103.9KB | LoschToEFM 006.JPG
Put it in the other way perhaps?
LoschToEFM 012.JPG
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LoschToEFM 015.JPG
.JPG | 121.5KB | LoschToEFM 015.JPG
I don't think so. with Option #2 the boiler would need to be raised 4" more then Option #1 and your still stuck with most of the Option #1 problems.

I'm thinking that, both of these options require a lot of cutting and welding on the Losch base. I finely figured out that if I just don't use the Losch base, I can make something that the S20 fits into. Then, I still have the Losch base with the Yellow Flame in it to fall back on.

Basicly the base of a stoker boiler is a box that;

A) The boiler sits on.

B) The stoker bolts onto.

C) The ashes fall into.

The base does nothing else. My new idea is to build a base out of 4" x 8" x 16" concrete block and mortar. Build it wide enough that the S20 stoker will fit inside it with 3.5" to 4" ashing clearence all around. I will use some 2" steel angle set on top to make up any gap to the boiler.

There are more details to be worked out but I am sure that this will work. Unless some knows a reason not to use concrete blocks and mortar in a coal stoker?

Here are those water tubes that will soon be roast'in the the EFM flames.
LoschToEFM 009.JPG
.JPG | 134.5KB | LoschToEFM 009.JPG
LoschToEFM 011.JPG
.JPG | 140.4KB | LoschToEFM 011.JPG
It has been mid 80's to 90 degrees down here this week and humidity over 80% (YUK!). I should be working on my AC system. This is full blown stage 5 stoker maddness!!!

-Don

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