Manometer Installed in Cleanout Door?

 
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HarMark3500
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Post by HarMark3500 » Sat. Oct. 03, 2015 8:57 pm

Good evening.. Im considering installing my manometer in the cleanout door. My door is located on the inside of my basement behind my stove.
Heres my resoning... I change my flue pipes every 2 years or so. If I install it in my cleanout its once and done. It should also be experiencing the same negative pressure as the flue pipe correct?

Does anyone have comments or see any issues with this?


 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Sat. Oct. 03, 2015 9:12 pm

As long as you do not use any mpd or barometric dampener, I guess it would function correctly, what's the big deal about drilling a small hole in the new stove pipe once every two years?

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Oct. 03, 2015 9:39 pm

Closer to the stove gives a truer reading of what the stove is doing.

As for hooking up a mano, five minutes including the time to go get the drill. The mano metal tubing only needs to extend into a slip-fit hole in the pipe, it does not need a 100% leak-proof seal.

Hook up is as fast as you can drill a hole the size of the tube and then stick the tube in the hole.

Paul

 
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Post by scalabro » Sun. Oct. 04, 2015 8:17 am

+ 1 all comments.

The closer to the outlet of the stove the better.

Installation on the chimney clean out will probably reflect chimney draft or it may not show draft at all, due to the fact that no gas movement takes place there unless you were to open the door while the chimney was already drafting. Chimney draft is not a bad thing to know, but it's not stove draft.

Install two and let us know the results :D

 
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Post by HarMark3500 » Sun. Oct. 04, 2015 2:24 pm

I ended up installing it in the flue pipe. I used a right angle compression fitting and it worked just fine. Ill post some pics later.

 
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Post by Lightning » Mon. Oct. 05, 2015 5:27 pm

HarMark3500 wrote:Good evening.. Im considering installing my manometer in the cleanout door. My door is located on the inside of my basement behind my stove.
Heres my resoning... I change my flue pipes every 2 years or so. If I install it in my cleanout its once and done. It should also be experiencing the same negative pressure as the flue pipe correct?

Does anyone have comments or see any issues with this?
hotblast1357 wrote:As long as you do not use any mpd or barometric dampener, I guess it would function correctly,
Just to elaborate, You want the mano to tell you what pressure the stove is feeling, since pressure is the driving force that motivates combustion air. With a consistent mano reading you'll be able to have predictable combustion air settings. I didn't notice if you use any kind of damper. For example, if a manual pipe damper is between the stove and your mano probe, you could see a high reading on the mano (-.06 or stronger) when actually the pressure in the stove is only half that with the MPD closed.

 
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Post by HarMark3500 » Tue. Oct. 06, 2015 10:02 pm

Here is the final install.

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Post by Lightning » Tue. Oct. 06, 2015 10:27 pm

Looks good but um, are you using a manual pipe damper and where is it in relation to the stove and mano probe?

 
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Post by HarMark3500 » Tue. Oct. 06, 2015 11:02 pm

This year it's damper-less.. I had several issues with the Baro last year so I removed it. A MPD was never installed. This unit has a pretty sizeable blower on it and caused reverse draft/ suffer smell in the house when a new load was put on, no matter quality if the fire. I also had several pretty significant puff backs that stopped when I blocked the Baro. I'm now hoping the top air will go in through the knobs on the door rather than through the damper. I guess we'll see.

 
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Post by Lightning » Tue. Oct. 06, 2015 11:56 pm

You mean it has a combustion air blower right? Yeah I wouldn't use a manual damper on it for sure.

 
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Post by HarMark3500 » Wed. Oct. 07, 2015 4:05 pm

No.. This has a large forced air fan for heat ducting.

 
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Post by Lightning » Wed. Oct. 07, 2015 4:22 pm

HarMark3500 wrote:No.. This has a large forced air fan for heat ducting.
So what's causing the draft reversal?
Lemme guess, no cold air return ducted to it from the living area?

 
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Post by HarMark3500 » Wed. Oct. 07, 2015 9:00 pm

semi correct. This is in the basement. There is a return duct but its basically a hole in the floor opposite the blower location. There is no direct fresh air ducting. I do crack a window, and that works. I changed some of the air ducts around so maybe the return will work this time round. I have two stairways and my original plan was to dump all the warm air into the living/dining room area. The warm air would rise up the front stairs and follow the hall. Then down the back stairs to the return hole. This semi worked except when installing the guys put a supply duct near the return. I remved that duct.

 
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Post by Lightning » Wed. Oct. 07, 2015 11:01 pm

Ah... I think I understand now.

What is happening in this arrangement I believe, is that the blowers are creating a low pressure area in the basement and it's effectively robbing your chimney's draft strength. This would cause the draft reversals and also promote the puff backs.

Here's the explanation, All natural air convection is driven by pressure (it's primary energy derived from heat differences). Air masses move from areas of high pressure to areas of low pressure. So yes, air will get back to the furnace thru the hole, but it needs a lower pressure area to run to in order to get there. That's why opening a window in the stove room helps, it satisfies that low pressure area in the basement and allows the chimney to perform better. This is more of a bandaid than a solution, the better option is to install a dedicated cold air return duct from the area that is being heated.

Also, that cold air that's coming in thru the open window sinks and is drawn into the furnace blowers. This makes the furnace work even harder to heat the air for the living area resulting in burning more coal than necessary. Even without the window open, the low pressure area in the basement is promoting cold air infiltration from other sources such as leaky windows and doors or cracks in the foundation.

Long story short, running a dedicated cold air return duct back to the furnace will make your heating system much more efficient overall and contribute to improved performance of your chimney.

 
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Post by HarMark3500 » Thu. Oct. 08, 2015 9:41 pm

You are correct sir.. And a good explination. I new to a furnace tis large and it was a good test run last year. You and this forum have provided alot of good comments. Its how I found the manometer.

Now about that return. Thoughts on tapping into the heat pump return ducting\??


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