My Glenwood Base Heater Vs Alaska Channing 3 Stoker

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Oct. 03, 2015 5:02 pm

You might find that a good bit of luck having both sizes.

You can try mixing the stove with the nut. A few guys on here have reported good results with the mix verses using just one size, or the other.

I've found that each can have it's uses depending on what output I want from the stove.

We just finished doing several batches of canning jellies. For that we need higher output from the stove to boil large pots of water. When I want faster, higher heat output, I dig out the larger pieces of nut in the bin that are closer to stove size. Later, at bed time, when I damper down the stove for the night, I'll load up with a higher concentration of smaller sized pieces of nut. They will naturally slow down the stove and also have about a 10% higher density of fuel in the firebox, so it gives longer, steadier burn times.

Measuring weights of coal to fill my range firebox, it holds 20 pounds of nut, or 18 pounds of stove. With my #6 brick-lined firepot, it's 50 pounds of nut, or 45 pounds of stove.

Having and using a choice of coal sizes, either as is ,or mixed, is one more tool you can use to adjust the stove to your needs. ;)

Paul


 
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Post by KingCoal » Sat. Oct. 03, 2015 5:59 pm

Canaan coal man wrote:4:30 shook down a weak 20 and half hour fire. I over shook a bit had to add a few scoops every 5mins loaded up with 30lbs of nut and off we go for another round. I'll post some more details later gotta run out the door.
i recommend when you get back to fill the pot to the top and start timing from there.

keep the mano. at about .02 if you can and give it enough primary to get the barrel temp. you want.

 
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Post by Pacowy » Sat. Oct. 03, 2015 6:47 pm

Canaan coal man wrote:Mike no worries I understand what u were trying to say, after running the Channing for 3 years there is definitely a little learning curb and dancing back and forward with settings to figure out the right iat and oat and dial setting . With the g6 there are a few more bells and whistles to play with In order to tweak burn times and temps were u want.
Glad you got my meaning.

Mike

 
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Post by dlj » Sat. Oct. 03, 2015 6:49 pm

Sunny Boy wrote: We just finished doing several batches of canning jellies. For that we need higher output from the stove to boil large pots of water. When I want faster, higher heat output, I dig out the larger pieces of nut in the bin that are closer to stove size. Later, at bed time, when I damper down the stove for the night, I'll load up with a higher concentration of smaller sized pieces of nut. They will naturally slow down the stove and also have about a 10% higher density of fuel in the firebox, so it gives longer, steadier burn times.

Paul
Paul,

Interesting how you play with the sizes and see the differences mentioned above. My experience with my Glenwood #6 never showed me that pronounced of a difference. About the only difference I noticed running nut coal was a less responsive fire. Using stove sized coal I simply control higher or lower heat output by adjusting the air controls. My #6 seems to run perfectly on stove. If I want to change heat output I just adjust dampers. I never noticed any difference in burn times between a full load of nut and full load of stove.

dj

 
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Post by Canaan coal man » Sun. Oct. 04, 2015 8:36 am

Awoke at 7:00am
Barrel 325°
Stack 100°
Draft .03
Middle of house 78°
Bb mode

Looks like plenty of fire for a 24hour burn today. Forecast also shows high temps this week so I'm gonna let her die out today.

So far I'm very happy with this stove the heat is very even across the whole house. The stove is so quiet that's my favorite part. Coal is better to burn hands down than wood. But we are no wear near winter . I'll keep u all posted as winter gets here. Gonna burn some wood on chilly nights.
If we get a few days in a row were we get a rainy raw heighs in the 40s-50s I'll switch to coal for that time period. That's the freedom of the g6 I pick what I wanna burn when I wanna burn it.

 
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Post by Canaan coal man » Sun. Oct. 04, 2015 8:37 am

dlj wrote:
Sunny Boy wrote: We just finished doing several batches of canning jellies. For that we need higher output from the stove to boil large pots of water. When I want faster, higher heat output, I dig out the larger pieces of nut in the bin that are closer to stove size. Later, at bed time, when I damper down the stove for the night, I'll load up with a higher concentration of smaller sized pieces of nut. They will naturally slow down the stove and also have about a 10% higher density of fuel in the firebox, so it gives longer, steadier burn times.

Paul
Paul,

Interesting how you play with the sizes and see the differences mentioned above. My experience with my Glenwood #6 never showed me that pronounced of a difference. About the only difference I noticed running nut coal was a less responsive fire. Using stove sized coal I simply control higher or lower heat output by adjusting the air controls. My #6 seems to run perfectly on stove. If I want to change heat output I just adjust dampers. I never noticed any difference in burn times between a full load of nut and full load of stove.

dj
A post like yours is what makes me wanna buy another pallet of stove size to play with this winter.

 
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Post by Canaan coal man » Sun. Oct. 04, 2015 9:05 pm

9:00pm I have a very weak 29 hour fire, and because oat is 44° she is getting a fresh round of stove coal just to change it up. House is a tropical 77° it did get warm today 60-65 in the sun but the g6 held its draft just fine in bb mode primary's a sliver 280°-300°.


 
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Post by ddahlgren » Mon. Oct. 05, 2015 1:19 am

windyhill4.2 wrote:
Canaan coal man wrote:First comparison it's sooooo quite :D
Do you mean quiet ? as in no noise ? as in totally silent ? I have to say that I love the silent radiant heat from our Crane 404,the only noise is at tending time.
There is the noise of me snoring on the old couch across from my 404 or me swearing while clearing the grates LOL.

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Mon. Oct. 05, 2015 6:35 am

dlj wrote:
Sunny Boy wrote: We just finished doing several batches of canning jellies. For that we need higher output from the stove to boil large pots of water. When I want faster, higher heat output, I dig out the larger pieces of nut in the bin that are closer to stove size. Later, at bed time, when I damper down the stove for the night, I'll load up with a higher concentration of smaller sized pieces of nut. They will naturally slow down the stove and also have about a 10% higher density of fuel in the firebox, so it gives longer, steadier burn times.

Paul
Paul,

Interesting how you play with the sizes and see the differences mentioned above. My experience with my Glenwood #6 never showed me that pronounced of a difference. About the only difference I noticed running nut coal was a less responsive fire. Using stove sized coal I simply control higher or lower heat output by adjusting the air controls. My #6 seems to run perfectly on stove. If I want to change heat output I just adjust dampers. I never noticed any difference in burn times between a full load of nut and full load of stove.

dj
Dave,
Yes, the stove coal reacts faster in my range, too. Sometimes too fast for what I want it to do at that time. And by weight the fire box holds about 10% less coal with stove size than with nut.

My range firebox holds about 20 pounds of nut. If I fill it with stove and damper it to match the same heat levels of nut it needs to be reloaded sooner. And as you've noticed stove being more responsive, it's tougher to damper down to get a long burn overnight. A full load of Stove coal won't go the usual 11-12 hours over night that a full load of nut coal will.

I had thought about getting deliveries of both stove and nut, but I've learned to use the natural size-sorting of a poured in place coal pile to tailor heat output during the day.

When poured into the bin from a coal shute, the larger chunks of nut coal tend to roll down the pile more easily than the smaller chunks, so there is a higher concentration of larger than average size pieces around the outside of the pile - more like the smaller half of the range of stove coal sizes. The middle of the pile then has a higher concentration of smaller than average pieces - more like the larger half range of pea coal.

About an hour before needing to cook ( higher heat demand), I use coal from the outer edges of the pile. And at night, coal from the middle of the pile.

So when I load the coal scuttle in the morning, I'll put in a few shovels of smaller chunks from the middle of the bin and top it off with a few shovels of larger chunks from the outer edges of the bin. Then as I take coal from the scuttle during the course of the day, I'll have a higher concentration of the larger pieces during the hours we'll be cooking. Come night time, I then am left with a higher concentration of the smaller pieces in the scuttle (a scuttle a day is all it uses), which naturally helps slow down the fire, plus gives a greater fuel density in the firebox for longer overnight burns without having to over dampen the stove. Over dampened to slow down stove coal, it will not burn as well later on in the night as ash builds up unevenly in the firebed. With stove coal it goes dead in some spots of the firebox before it all burns. With the concentration of smaller chunks of nut coal, it burns more uniformly throughout the firebed during the night.

With the #6 having almost double the firebed depth of a range, I can see that it will react much more to the increased breathability of the stove size. Plus, you've got your #6 set up with a much deeper firebed capacity than a standard #6. I can see where you'd have to run stove coal with that much depth.

Paul

 
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Post by Canaan coal man » Mon. Oct. 05, 2015 9:32 am

Well I need some input from the experienced g6 owners. What is the best way to load the stove. do you shake and open dampers than fill, or open dampers fill than shake? Saturday night I had a week fire that took an hour before I could shut the stove down and put in bb. Last night I stated in my last post that I put some stove coal on a weak 29 hour fire to help with draft. Well I lost the fire 3 hours later woke at 1:30 am to a cold stove. it did look like it was starting to catch when I put maybe 10lbs of stove on to get her going again. I left the dampers open almost full to help her breath after I shook down.and was planing on putting a full load on after she was breathing nice and hot again. I feel this wont be a problem in the colder months because ill be on a 12hr tend. but shoulder months im finding are gonna take a little getting used to. Maybe I shouldn't try and be superman my first time out with the stove and push big burn times for bragging rights. do you guys try and open the fire up with poker from the top and try and get the stove ripping again with open dampers before you throw a hod on?

 
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Post by Pancho » Mon. Oct. 05, 2015 10:12 am

Canaan coal man wrote:Well I need some input from the experienced g6 owners. What is the best way to load the stove. do you shake and open dampers than fill, or open dampers fill than shake? Saturday night I had a week fire that took an hour before I could shut the stove down and put in bb. Last night I stated in my last post that I put some stove coal on a weak 29 hour fire to help with draft. Well I lost the fire 3 hours later woke at 1:30 am to a cold stove. it did look like it was starting to catch when I put maybe 10lbs of stove on to get her going again. I left the dampers open almost full to help her breath after I shook down.and was planing on putting a full load on after she was breathing nice and hot again. I feel this wont be a problem in the colder months because ill be on a 12hr tend. but shoulder months im finding are gonna take a little getting used to. Maybe I shouldn't try and be superman my first time out with the stove and push big burn times for bragging rights. do you guys try and open the fire up with poker from the top and try and get the stove ripping again with open dampers before you throw a hod on?
It depends on how far down the fire is before reload.

If I have a half of a pot, there's more leeway. If you get down to not much of a load left, I open the dampers, take it out of BB mode, make sure the bed is going good and then add a layer....let it catch then top it off.

I've lost a few fires by shaking first.

Also, there is an art to shaking the stove. Don't overshake it (it's easy to do). Just a few real short choppy strokes on each side until you start to see some hot bits dropping into the ash pan. Again, if you have a half pot of coal going, you have leeway. If you are nearing the end of a fire, don't overshake or you'll be starting all over (which isn't a big deal but, for some reason, it really pisses me off :x )

Lastly, no pokey. Hang a do not disturb sign on your poker. :)

 
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Post by Photog200 » Mon. Oct. 05, 2015 10:20 am

I don't have a G6 but my Andes stove has the same style triangle grates and fire pot as the #6. This has been my routine after having many conversations with others on this forum and it works well for my stove.

1. Open up the primary drafts to get the fire going good, if the fire is almost out, I might put a couple of scoops of coal on top of the fire. Empty out the ash pan from the earlier days shake down.
2. In my stove, the coal bridges so I use that to my advantage. It allows me to fully rotate the grates, breaking up the "chunky ash" or clinkers without dumping hot coals.
3. Then I poke the coal bed down onto the grates, then just rattle the grates to remove any more fine ash that came down with the hot coals. When I see some hot embers dropping into the ash pan, I stop.
4. I open the secondary air a little to help burn off the volatiles from the new coal. Then I start adding coal on top of the fire a couple of shovels full at a time until it catches and the blue ladies are visible. Then keep adding more a little at a time until full. My stove is prone to puff backs, so when loading new coal, I make sure I leave an area with the blue ladies uncovered to keep burning off the volatiles when adding new coal.
5. I leave the ashes in the pan until before shaking down the next time. When the ash has cooled down, there is much less ash that will fly around the house when emptying.

Hope this helps
Randy

 
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Post by dlj » Mon. Oct. 05, 2015 11:22 pm

Pancho wrote:
Lastly, no pokey. Hang a do not disturb sign on your poker. :)
I know a lot of people say this, but I poke my fire all the time. I feel I can customize how the fire is running and if I'm looking to get it going really well, I can do it through manipulating the fire. Now, I realize that I have also been burning coal fires for many decades (I won't confess how many), including many years working as a blacksmith running coal fired forges so I'm probably not the best example for someone new to coal burning. Certainly easier to let the fire be. Especially if it is low...
Photog200 wrote:I don't have a G6 but my Andes stove has the same style triangle grates and fire pot as the #6. This has been my routine after having many conversations with others on this forum and it works well for my stove.

Empty out the ash pan from the earlier days shake down.
I don't know how big the ash pan is on the Andes, with the G6 I typically empty the ash once a day, which is two shake-downs. I typically empty the ash pan prior to the morning shake, but will change that depending if the ladies of the house need to tend the stove and be able to shake. They don't like carrying out the ash pan so I always try to set it up so they don't have to worry and can just shake and go. I never let the ash build up to touch the grates from the under side. It will destroy your grates much faster than you may think - ask me how I know...
Photog200 wrote:I open the secondary air a little to help burn off the volatiles from the new coal.
I tend to run my G6 with a lot more secondary air than most folk on here. I don't know if there is something unique about the G6 that allows this to have a somewhat different effect than other stove designs, but I do a lot of temperature control using my secondary air.
Photog200 wrote:I leave the ashes in the pan until before shaking down the next time. When the ash has cooled down, there is much less ash that will fly around the house when emptying.
This is excellent advice.

Both Photog200 and Pancho have given you a lot of really good tips on how to run your stove. Follow their advice and you are well on your way of figuring out your particular stove/set-up.

dj

 
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Post by dlj » Tue. Oct. 06, 2015 12:09 am

Paul, very interesting discussion. I'll add in some notes into your response.
Sunny Boy wrote: Dave,
Yes, the stove coal reacts faster in my range, too. Sometimes too fast for what I want it to do at that time. And by weight the fire box holds about 10% less coal with stove size than with nut.
I wonder if your stove is less "air-tight" than my G6. When I want to slow down the fire, I simply close down the air. I never noticed much difference in stove vs nut - coal has "inertia" so neither slows down particularly quickly, but with good air control, they do both slow down fairly well. The really big advantage from my perspective is when you want to ramp up. Then the speed of ramping up is noticeably better with stove.
Sunny Boy wrote:My range firebox holds about 20 pounds of nut. If I fill it with stove and damper it to match the same heat levels of nut it needs to be reloaded sooner. And as you've noticed stove being more responsive, it's tougher to damper down to get a long burn overnight. A full load of Stove coal won't go the usual 11-12 hours over night that a full load of nut coal will.
You're definitely not the same as the G6 here - I get solid 11-12 hour burns flat out in the coldest of weather. In more normal winter weather I'm going 16 hours quite easily. Shoulder months, 24 hours or sometimes more.
Sunny Boy wrote:I had thought about getting deliveries of both stove and nut, but I've learned to use the natural size-sorting of a poured in place coal pile to tailor heat output during the day.

When poured into the bin from a coal shute, the larger chunks of nut coal tend to roll down the pile more easily than the smaller chunks, so there is a higher concentration of larger than average size pieces around the outside of the pile - more like the smaller half of the range of stove coal sizes. The middle of the pile then has a higher concentration of smaller than average pieces - more like the larger half range of pea coal.

About an hour before needing to cook ( higher heat demand), I use coal from the outer edges of the pile. And at night, coal from the middle of the pile.
I don't have this lay-out, I just have a large coal bin that I take from - no segregation for me... :(
Sunny Boy wrote:So when I load the coal scuttle in the morning, I'll put in a few shovels of smaller chunks from the middle of the bin and top it off with a few shovels of larger chunks from the outer edges of the bin. Then as I take coal from the scuttle during the course of the day, I'll have a higher concentration of the larger pieces during the hours we'll be cooking. Come night time, I then am left with a higher concentration of the smaller pieces in the scuttle (a scuttle a day is all it uses), which naturally helps slow down the fire, plus gives a greater fuel density in the firebox for longer overnight burns without having to over dampen the stove. Over dampened to slow down stove coal, it will not burn as well later on in the night as ash builds up unevenly in the firebed. With stove coal it goes dead in some spots of the firebox before it all burns. With the concentration of smaller chunks of nut coal, it burns more uniformly throughout the firebed during the night.
Definitely not at all like the G6. I can fully close all dampers and run the stove down to close to 150*F and still get coal to completely burn to ash. I have to make sure I clean out ash from the fire after a month or so of burning, sometimes that can be work. Depends a lot on coal. But if I'm running a clean fire, I have nothing like you describe above in the G6.
Sunny Boy wrote:With the #6 having almost double the firebed depth of a range, I can see that it will react much more to the increased breathability of the stove size. Plus, you've got your #6 set up with a much deeper firebed capacity than a standard #6. I can see where you'd have to run stove coal with that much depth.
Paul
You have said this to me before. I'm never felt I have a much deeper firebed capacity - it seems to me the top of my ceramic liner is right where my old gas ring used to sit. But maybe my fire pot is higher than the originally ceramic lined fire pots. It was originally an unlined version being just the cast iron firepot without ceramic liner. Maybe Glenwood made them taller than the lined firepots. Since they might have been thinking those were more likely being used for wood, then perhaps they made them taller for great capacity? I don't know. It may be something to explore...

dj

 
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Post by Photog200 » Tue. Oct. 06, 2015 7:10 am

dlj wrote:
Photog200 wrote:I don't have a G6 but my Andes stove has the same style triangle grates and fire pot as the #6. This has been my routine after having many conversations with others on this forum and it works well for my stove.

Empty out the ash pan from the earlier days shake down.
I don't know how big the ash pan is on the Andes, with the G6 I typically empty the ash once a day, which is two shake-downs. I typically empty the ash pan prior to the morning shake, but will change that depending if the ladies of the house need to tend the stove and be able to shake. They don't like carrying out the ash pan so I always try to set it up so they don't have to worry and can just shake and go. I never let the ash build up to touch the grates from the under side. It will destroy your grates much faster than you may think - ask me how I know...

dj
The ash pan on the Andes is only about 2" deep. I probably could get two shake downs in it but then it would be really full and would take more of a chance of spilling some on the way outside. It really is not all that bad to empty it every time, it just becomes routine where I empty it while revving up the fire. My Kineo stove had a huge ash pan in it and I only had to empty it every three days.

I agree, never let the ash get near the grates, it is the fastest way to warped grates there is!

Randy


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