Need Help After Rebuild

Brett K · Post by **Brett K** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 7:56 pm

SWPaDon wrote:
Brett K wrote:
image.jpeg
Making progress! Keeping the draft full open to generate enough heat to boost the draft. Hopefully it will maintain. I covered the damper with foil. We're getting there!
Just out of curiosity...............

You said you changed from 7 inch pipe to 6 inch. Did you replace that big black square thingy on the wall, or does it still have a 7 inch opening with a 6 inch pipe installed with a ring placed loosely on it? My point being, that your chimney could be pulling most of the draft from around that ring at the chimney, instead of through the stove.

windyhill4.2 · Post by **windyhill4.2** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 8:00 pm

And the answer is ...................~~~~~~~~~~~~~~????

titleist1 · Post by **titleist1** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 8:01 pm

045 should enough to keep the fire going well with the spinner only open about 1 turn, I agree with you it shouldn't need to be wide open.

Are you burning the same coal as last year, or a different supplier? The firebox is completely full to the top of the firebrick, correct?

Was your ash door loose fitting before you changed the gasket? Lots of questions, I know but just trying to narrow down the possibilities.

Brett K · Post by **Brett K** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 8:06 pm

SWPaDon wrote:
Brett K wrote:
image.jpeg
Making progress! Keeping the draft full open to generate enough heat to boost the draft. Hopefully it will maintain. I covered the damper with foil. We're getting there!
Just out of curiosity...............

You said you changed from 7 inch pipe to 6 inch. Did you replace that big black square thingy on the wall, or does it still have a 7 inch opening with a 6 inch pipe installed with a ring placed loosely on it? My point being, that your chimney could be pulling most of the draft from around that ring at the chimney, instead of through the stove.

The pipe runs in the 8 inch opening a foot and is packed with insulation for a tight fit.

windyhill4.2 · Post by **windyhill4.2** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 8:08 pm

Problem is if fiberglass is used it actually breathes, unless packed extremely tight. They do make reducer adapters for that purpose too.

Brett K · Post by **Brett K** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 8:16 pm

titleist1 wrote:045 should enough to keep the fire going well with the spinner only open about 1 turn, I agree with you it shouldn't need to be wide open.

Are you burning the same coal as last year, or a different supplier? The firebox is completely full to the top of the firebrick, correct?

Was your ash door loose fitting before you changed the gasket? Lots of questions, I know but just trying to narrow down the possibilities.

Same coal. I change the gaskets every 2-3 years so they were still pretty good. I never completely load the firebox. I have always done 1/2 to 3/4 of a 5 gal bucket every 12 hrs. This keeps it about 1/2 up the rear fire bricks. I haven't had any blow ups since doing it this way.

Post by **Lightning** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 8:29 pm

windyhill4.2 wrote:Problem is if fiberglass is used it actually breathes, unless packed extremely tight. They do make reducer adapters for that purpose too.

At the low pressures we deal with in a chimney system, the fiberglass has plenty of resistance to shut down airflow thru it enough that any "breathing" thru it wouldn't have any measurable effect on the draft.

titleist1 · Post by **titleist1** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 8:42 pm

The new door gaskets / gap around the window seems to have changed the draft through the coal bed so you may need to adjust what worked previously. I suggest filling the box completely so there is no chance of combustion air bypassing the coal bed.

What is the outside air temp where you are? I didn't see a location listed anywhere.

Brett K · Post by **Brett K** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 9:13 pm

I'm near Hazleton, Pa. Mid 30s

titleist1 · Post by **titleist1** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 9:23 pm

In a post above where you mentioned your buddy's jet stream theory you said

Brett K wrote:He had some comment about the jet stream right now is not helping us and things should get better soon. Honestly, it has always been this way with this stove.

Did you mean that your stove has always had trouble running in 30* temps, or something different?

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 9:25 pm

Brett K wrote: The pipe runs in the 8 inch opening a foot and is packed with insulation for a tight fit.

If that pipe was to inadvertently extend a little too far into the flue the end gap space could narrow down and allow less air up chimney while still giving a prefect manometer reading.
It may pay to have another look to be sure you haven't reduce the ability for ample exhaust gases to pass on up chimney.

Brett K · Post by **Brett K** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 10:44 pm

titleist1 wrote:In a post above where you mentioned your buddy's jet stream theory you said

Brett K wrote:He had some comment about the jet stream right now is not helping us and things should get better soon. Honestly, it has always been this way with this stove.
Did you mean that your stove has always had trouble running in 30* temps, or something different?

Well, it would typically struggle above 45-50 especially when wet out and it would burn super hot when cold and windy. This is why I put the barometric damper on.

Brett K · Post by **Brett K** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 10:51 pm

McGiever wrote:
Brett K wrote: The pipe runs in the 8 inch opening a foot and is packed with insulation for a tight fit.
If that pipe was to inadvertently extend a little too far into the flue the end gap space could narrow down and allow less air up chimney while still giving a prefect manometer reading.
It may pay to have another look to be sure you haven't reduce the ability for ample exhaust gases to pass on up chimney.

It is ok. The vertical run of the chimney is 2 ft from where the wall opening.

windyhill4.2 · Post by **windyhill4.2** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 10:54 pm

Your saying that the thimble is 2' long ? It must go thru a very thick wall OR the chimney is setting away from the outside wall with a good sized gap ?

titleist1 · Post by **titleist1** » Wed. Nov. 25, 2015 8:34 am

A couple other basics just to make sure its not something easy...two places those stoves accumulate ash and block draft are the top of the baffle plate and around the exhaust port in the back. Was the fly ash vacuumed out of those two spots?

Are the grates rocking/working as before and since you mentioned replacing the grates, are all the firebrick seated correctly to keep the combustion air from being able to get behind them.

When the coal bed died out was there un-burned coal all over or just in one area, like just the front or just the back?