Might Buy a Vermont Castings Vigilant Coal Stove.

oldpaddy · Post by **oldpaddy** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 9:01 pm

Awesome guys! I hope it's the 2310. He said he bought it new in the 90's, but who knows. I guess I'll find out tomorrow morning.
Due to the size of my drafty house, I tend to overfire the stove late December through March/april. Last two winters especially. I usually have to replace a shaker or two every 3-5yrs.
I live in the house I grew up in and I remember my father always went with pea coal stoves. And every couple of years we either had to replace the innards or get a new stove. I remember the house almost always being cold. When I inherited the house, I replaced the pea stove with a temp coal 2 (nut). Unless it's zero outside or the fire had run down, it's always warm to hot inside.

oldpaddy · Post by **oldpaddy** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 9:03 pm

michaelanthony wrote:Sorry old paddy I failed to answer a couple questions...got caught up in the moment.
Like any used stove you need to bring a flash light and check all seams. The shaker bar is front left so gently move it forward and back a few times with the doors open so you can look down into the stove and see grate system in action. There is a damper handle is located top, left side and moves approx 90 degrees for direct draft used when starting a fire or revving up the fire, and indirect draft when fire is established...this stove redirects the flue gases down both sides of the fire box and across the back before it exits the stove which help extract as much heat as possible from the exhaust, some consider it a modern day 'base heater'.
The stove burns pea and 'nut size coal, burn whatever doesn't fall through the grate.
The stove can burn bituminous coal as well and comes with the necessary parts which is a restrictor plate that is installed over the primary air inlet under the grates. The stove burns wood fairly well but I refrain from smokin' up the glass doors.
Take pic's and feel free to p.m. me anytime. I work a 12 tomorrow but will be home after 7 pm.

MA

You the man! Excellent advice!
Thank you, I might take you up on your offer.

oldpaddy · Post by **oldpaddy** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 9:11 pm

I was just reading in the manual damper sticky thread that some stoves need a barometric or manual damper. Is this one? I've never had a manual damper and only had a barometric for a short time back in the late 90's on a pea coal stove. I found the barometric damper messed with the draft and I removed it. Thanks

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 9:16 pm

franco b wrote: You can use either pea or nut. I prefer nut because the front grill will sometimes pass pea easier, meaning jump out, but I will not hesitate to use pea.

Holds about 40 pounds and shaking plus some slicing from above works well to clear ash. Top of stove can go as high as 700 degrees if wanted and still have fairly low stack temp. No damper or baro needed or recommended. Flue path in stove can be direct or down sides and up back.

Ash pan is suspended from the ash door and swings out rather than sliding. An ash pan cover and carry handle should come with it plus a slicing tool.

You can download a manual from the VC site. Model 2310.

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 9:18 pm

Thanks, that's why we're here

...one more note, I'm not sure when the 2310 arrived on the scene but there is a multi-fuel model that does not have the swing out ash pan, it is lifted out through the front. I believe all Vigilant models look very similar on the outside. Good luck and look forward to more info.

MA

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 9:20 pm

oldpaddy wrote:I was just reading in the manual damper sticky thread that some stoves need a barometric or manual damper. Is this one? I've never had a manual damper and only had a barometric for a short time back in the late 90's on a pea coal stove. I found the barometric damper messed with the draft and I removed it. Thanks

See franco b post...no baro or mpd required.

oldpaddy · Post by **oldpaddy** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 9:28 pm

SWPaDon wrote:
franco b wrote: You can use either pea or nut. I prefer nut because the front grill will sometimes pass pea easier, meaning jump out, but I will not hesitate to use pea.

Holds about 40 pounds and shaking plus some slicing from above works well to clear ash. Top of stove can go as high as 700 degrees if wanted and still have fairly low stack temp. No damper or baro needed or recommended. Flue path in stove can be direct or down sides and up back.

Ash pan is suspended from the ash door and swings out rather than sliding. An ash pan cover and carry handle should come with it plus a slicing tool.

You can download a manual from the VC site. Model 2310.

Thanks, I missed or forgot I read that. Either is quite possible with me lol

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 9:36 pm

oldpaddy wrote:Thanks, I missed or forgot I read that. Either is quite possible with me lol

Your quite welcome, and it happens to all of us at one time or another.

oldpaddy · Post by **oldpaddy** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 10:14 pm

Just for shits and giggles, what if the stove is an earlier model?

Post by **franco b** » Tue. Nov. 24, 2015 11:25 pm

oldpaddy wrote:Just for shits and giggles, what if the stove is an earlier model?

The date on my owners manual is 1997, but I think they were made even earlier.

The model just preceding had a shallower fire pot and ash pan. One member I remember having liked it. I would insist on the newer model.

oliver power · Post by **oliver power** » Wed. Nov. 25, 2015 4:55 am

franco b wrote:You want the latest model which can be easily recognized because the ash pan door is down between the legs and under the ash lip. It is a good stove but lacks a convenient feature in not having a hopper but it does have a bi-metal thermostat.

To add to what franco b said: if the ash pan is inside the front double doors; those models are NOT good coal stoves. Yes, they will burn coal but........ Don't be disappointed. Get the model 2310. The 2310 was made for coal.

VigIIPeaBurner · Post by **VigIIPeaBurner** » Wed. Nov. 25, 2015 7:11 am

I'll chime in and make it a Trifecta joining with franco b and oliver power and recommend the model 2310. After ~15 seasons of running nearly full out all deep winter weather, I've replaced 2 sets of firebrick and am on my fourth front grill due to sagging from running on the edge. IMHO, the front grill is the weakest link but allows all that raw radiant light and heat shine out.

Here's a picture of the inside of the stove taken with the two front doors and grate components removed. The other pic is of some of the grate components. Hope they help.

oldpaddy · Post by **oldpaddy** » Wed. Nov. 25, 2015 7:50 am

Good morning everyone, I just looked at the stove. It looks to be in very good shape. Though the doors were stuck shut and I was unable to get them open. There's a heat shield covering the model number, so I was unable to find the model number.
I was told that he bought it new in '90 or 91. He said it was sold to him as a coal stove, but that the company said he could burn wood. Though state law said that it couldn't be advertised as a wood/coal combo. The ash pan is accessed through the front doors.
He was quoted $650 trade in value if he bought a new gas stove. So he wants $650 for it. Which seems a little pricey to me.

blrman07 · Post by **blrman07** » Wed. Nov. 25, 2015 7:54 am

Yepper that is very pricy for a retrofit wood stove. It sounds like the old wood stove version that had a kit for converting to coal. They never really worked correctly. $650.....naw For $650 you could get a nice used honest to goodness coal stove.

I would pass.

joeq · Post by **joeq** » Wed. Nov. 25, 2015 7:59 am

I guess it depends on the condition, and how much it's worth to you, compared to buying a "new" one. But with so many other stoves on the market, for better prices,...(?). Think you could talk him down a couple hundred?