G111 Molds

scalabro · Post by **scalabro** » Wed. Nov. 25, 2015 12:45 pm

We need to nickname you mould boy!

Nice work there Boss

joeq · Post by **joeq** » Wed. Nov. 25, 2015 8:45 pm

Thanx Scott. I hope the effort pays off soon.

joeq · Post by **joeq** » Thu. Dec. 03, 2015 4:09 pm

Sorry guys, but I'm bummin right now. Was going to up-date on my progress, and was planning to get some more work accomplished today, seeing I've taken 1/2 a day from work to apply to it. I was going to post a few pictures, but now that I just up-graded to Windows 10, (a week or 2 ago), I can't seem to get a display tab showing my camera hooked to my USB. I can "hear" it recognizing it when I power up the camera, but it won't display a tab for me to click the options. I've posted this problem on the help section, and have had a few responses, but it's not looking too good right now. On my lower LHS windows icon, if I left click on it, it won't show any response. but if I right click it, it will show some options.

("WAY" too much lost time on this.)

joeq · Post by **joeq** » Thu. Dec. 03, 2015 5:34 pm

As mentioned in the help thread, my teenage daughter got me through this dilemma.

Seeing as I've lost all motivation tonite to continue on the moulds, I'll do the up-date now. (By the way, thanx to the posters who have "schooled" me on the proper spelling of "MOULDS", and not "MOLD", (which has been growing on my brain, for years.)
I believe I left off with trying to O-ring the doors. If I were to build another set of moulds, I wouldn't complicate the door sealing area with multiple angles. Wasn't thinking of this when in the design process. Anyway, I'll do the final gluing of the O-rings after I shellac the wood, to protect it.
After custom fitting the masters to each bay, (which was time consuming), I needed to mortise some slots in the top covers for final filling of the refractory. Making square holes is sometimes fun.

.JPG | 103.1KB | mortising mould 001.JPG

.JPG | 111.8KB | mortising mould 002.JPG

(Randy, help! I don't understand why that photo is crooked. it's not from a cell phone, and in my folder it's up-right)
Once they were cut, I put a couple wingnut screws to hold the tops down securely, which sets the width of the bricks.

.JPG | 122.9KB | mould tops 003.JPG

Now the issue is, how do you pour thick cement into those little 1/2" slots. Now we need a funnel.

.JPG | 116.8KB | mould funnel 001.JPG

.JPG | 97.3KB | mould funnel 002.JPG

My welding is "so" bad, but good enuff for this.

.JPG | 107.4KB | 111 mould 002.JPG

More to come.

ElCamMan515 · Post by **ElCamMan515** » Thu. Dec. 03, 2015 5:48 pm

Looking Good Joe! Keep At It!

Tim

joeq · Post by **joeq** » Thu. Dec. 03, 2015 5:58 pm

And if I'm going this much overboard on these things, I figured I'ld make some thin covers for the tops, to keep critters, insects and whatever else wants to climb inside the bays, while the moulds are in storage.

.JPG | 102.3KB | 111 moulds 004.JPG

You may notice a new piece of trim going across the front edge of the tops. it's not there for decoration, it actually will position and clamp the doors into place when all is closed tight. Here's a photo of the channel that'll capture the tops of each door.

.JPG | 98.8KB | 111 mould 003.JPG

So I'm getting closer to the point of pouring in the molding compound. Today, as I mentioned above, I was suppose to be sealing the wood with shellac, install some tin strips to the tops and bottoms of the moulds, to help protect the wood from wet concrete, and maybe make the extracting a bit easier. I'll show some photos another time of those, that I've already cut out. then final install of the o-rings. (Whew)
So all I can say, "That's all folks" (For now)
Thanx Tim. you beat me to the button.

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Thu. Dec. 03, 2015 6:24 pm

Comin' along real nice joe.

scalabro · Post by **scalabro** » Thu. Dec. 03, 2015 6:46 pm

Joe....those are really too nice looking to get all mucked up with refractory

joeq · Post by **joeq** » Thu. Dec. 03, 2015 7:11 pm

The trick, Scott, is to keep the "muck" on the inside, and not on the outside.

(Yeah, like that'll ever happen). Kinda like doing an oil change on your car, and not getting anything else dirty, but a smiggen on your hands. But thanx for the compliment.
We'll see how messy this procedure actually is, once underway. If they get dirty, so be it. I'm not sure how much action they'll actually see anyway. We all know there ain't a whole lot of G111s out there.

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Thu. Dec. 03, 2015 7:29 pm

joeq wrote:The trick, Scott, is to keep the "muck" on the inside, and not on the outside. (Yeah, like that'll ever happen). Kinda like doing an oil change on your car, and not getting anything else dirty, but a smiggen on your hands. But thanx for the compliment.
We'll see how messy this procedure actually is, once underway. If they get dirty, so be it. I'm not sure how much action they'll actually see anyway. We all know there ain't a whole lot of G111s out there.

Joe you could use tung oil on the molds, technically never actually drying and you could do many coats in a day.
Now there may not be many G111's out there but I bet there are a good number of stoves with that diameter fire pot.

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Thu. Dec. 03, 2015 7:46 pm

Tung oil would hold up better than shellac with the water in the refractory cement. But, tung oil may react badly with whatever you use as a releasing agent.

I used Minwax "Ploycrylic" water base clear polyurethane to seal the wood casings of my molds. Dries as fast, if not faster than tung oil, thicker coverage per coat then many solvent based finishes, no fumes, and you wash the brush out with water in the sink. Once it dries, water and oils in releasing agents won't bother it.

2 hours between coats, you can seal the box in a day and be pouring refractory the next morning.

Paul

scalabro · Post by **scalabro** » Thu. Dec. 03, 2015 7:50 pm

michaelanthony wrote:Now there may not be many G111's out there but I bet there are a good number of stoves with that diameter fire pot.

Ding ding ding ding...we have a winner!!!!

joeq · Post by **joeq** » Thu. Dec. 03, 2015 8:49 pm

michaelanthony wrote: Joe you could use tung oil on the molds, technically never actually drying and you could do many coats in a day.
Now there may not be many G111's out there but I bet there are a good number of stoves with that diameter fire pot.

That would work too Mike, but I already have almost 5 gallons of floor shellac in my basement, I need to get rid of.

Sunny Boy wrote:Tung oil would hold up better than shellac with the water in the refractory cement. But, tung oil may react badly with whatever you use as a releasing agent.

I used Minwax "Ploycrylic" water base clear polyurethane to seal the wood casings of my molds. Dries as fast, if not faster than tung oil, thicker coverage per coat then many solvent based finishes, no fumes, and you wash the brush out with water in the sink. Once it dries, water and oils in releasing agents won't bother it.
2 hours between coats, you can seal the box in a day and be pouring refractory the next morning.
Paul

The interior of the moulds Paul, will be lined with polyester resin, and aluminum sheets, (from printing plates). hopefully there won't be any refractory contacting anything wood.

joeq · Post by **joeq** » Thu. Dec. 03, 2015 8:52 pm

scalabro wrote:
michaelanthony wrote:Now there may not be many G111's out there but I bet there are a good number of stoves with that diameter fire pot.
Ding ding ding ding...we have a winner!!!!

I've been trying to figure what other stoves have this size. I was thinking about taking a poll on this site to see. But 1st I need to prove these things will even work.

KingCoal · Post by **KingCoal** » Fri. Dec. 04, 2015 6:16 am

did you allow for the layer of alum. and resin when you were sizing the molds ? at this point it would be a real pity to have the new bricks be "sloppy".

the original bricks in my WM are so close fit you have to have them all just right for the last one to even go in.

no disrespect, just hoping to avoid any unhappy issues.

steve