K6 Feeding Above Hi Limit

 
Jrhughes
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Post by Jrhughes » Fri. Nov. 27, 2015 12:27 am

KLook wrote:The White should go straight to TT. At least that is how I read it as you wrote it. You only break one wire with the SPST switch. Did you attach both to the switch? SIngle Postition/Single Throw is like a wall switch for one location/lights. On or off.

Kevin
Aha! That's it. The wiring diagram did show a little split in one wire but we thought it was just the printer. We had both running through the switch. So we just cap the white in the 4006B and the white from thermostat bypasses it going straight to TT on triple aquastat. Red goes from thermostat to 4006B then from there to TT. Right?


 
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Post by Jrhughes » Fri. Nov. 27, 2015 12:38 am

Or do red and white on 4006B both get connected to red from thermostat?

 
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Post by McGiever » Fri. Nov. 27, 2015 7:12 am

A 4006 functioning as a H/L need not interact w/ any TT. It is a just in case safety should all normal controls fail.
It breaks a 120 volt line to the stoker motor/burner to stop it. After some heat loss from where ever it will [re]make that 120 volt line and allow the other normal controls to resume.

When a 4006 wires along w/ TT , its action is in reverse of a H/L and is a "dump" or circ. start control...no a burner stop safety control.

You see now you have your 4006 start/run your burner when it actually needs to be stopping it.
Last edited by McGiever on Fri. Nov. 27, 2015 7:25 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
Jrhughes
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Post by Jrhughes » Fri. Nov. 27, 2015 7:25 am

McGiever wrote:A H/L need not interact w/ any TT. It is a just in case safety should all normal controls fail.
It breaks a 120 volt line to the stoker motor/burner to stop it. After some heat loss from where ever it will [re]make that 120 volt line and allow the other normal controls to resume.
Ok. Red/white wire had us making assumptions. That worked out the usual way. :oops:

Going to be in 60s today and heading out of town so probably shut it down and mess with it tomorrow.

Thanks again everyone. :)

 
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Post by McGiever » Fri. Nov. 27, 2015 7:30 am

L4006A and L4006B do the opposite actions. :)
See above.

 
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Post by KLook » Fri. Nov. 27, 2015 8:24 am

I will leave off as you are in good hands with McGiever. Honeywell controls like this can be used for many functions. I used them to replace the awful Johnson controls on my boiler. I have one that breaks on rise, makes on drop, to set my hi temp for my boiler, one that dumps excess heat,makes on rise, if necessary, and one that makes on drop that allows my backup boiler to kick in to help out when needed. I also used cube relays which are the same thing but are activated electrically. Sometimes they are actuated by Honeywell Aquastats that turn on or off the power to them. The sky is the limit to what you can make for a Rube Goldberg device with them.... ;)

Kevin

 
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Post by tikigeorge » Fri. Nov. 27, 2015 7:57 pm

I'm burning buckwheat coal. The red nut is @ 6 turns. My timer has one pin @ 0-10-20. This works for me, the boiler temp is about + -160. This is at idle.
The loop stat is a safey, it opens a zone to send excess hot boiler water to a zone to cool down the boiler.
The triple acting aquastat controls the boiler during the call for heat cycle. Go to this link.
http://Www.firedragonent.com/triple.pdf.


 
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Post by Jrhughes » Sun. Nov. 29, 2015 12:46 pm

Ok. So we were having what appear to be two separate problems and treating them as symptoms of the same error may have been holding up correction.

The first issue was the burner continuously feeding when no call for heat. I think we resolved that by disconnecting the blue low limit wire. We are not using domestic hot water. The coil is in but we just put plugs in it per the recommendation when we called Keystoker. After pulling the blue wire, the feeder works correctly so far, and so does the pump, kicking on at 160 (our low setting) as long as we completely bypass the hi limit 4006B.

Now we want to jump in the 4006B to act as a dump on temp rise. We need to know where to connect it to trigger the pump to run absent a heat call if boiler temp exceeds setting on 4006B. I think we've been mistaken in connecting it to the thermostat at all. Does anyone have theirs configured the way we are thinking? So that it triggers the pump at the set temp regardless of heat demand? If so, where did you connect it?

 
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Post by Jrhughes » Sun. Nov. 29, 2015 1:25 pm

Aaaaaaand now for some reason the circulator has shut off. Temp is at 175. We adjusted the hi/low down to 150/170 just to be sure the feed would stop at hi limit and it did. Put it back to 160/180 and after a minute the circulator stopped and has not resumed in spite of call for heat.

 
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Post by lsayre » Sun. Nov. 29, 2015 1:31 pm

It looks to me as if you need both a 4006A and a 4006B. You can't make a single 4006 do both functions. Alternately, you will need a dual function aquastat.
Last edited by lsayre on Sun. Nov. 29, 2015 1:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Post by Jrhughes » Sun. Nov. 29, 2015 1:34 pm

lsayre wrote:It looks to me as if you need both a 4006A and a 4006B. You can't make a single 4006 do both functions.
The triple aquastat hi/low is working to control feeder. All I want now is a circulator override. If I'm not calling for heat, but the temp of the boiler hits 200, I want to force the pump to run.

 
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Post by Jrhughes » Sun. Nov. 29, 2015 1:35 pm

Jrhughes wrote:Aaaaaaand now for some reason the circulator has shut off. Temp is at 175. We adjusted the hi/low down to 150/170 just to be sure the feed would stop at hi limit and it did. Put it back to 160/180 and after a minute the circulator stopped and has not resumed in spite of call for heat.
Ok simple fix there. Hi/low was a little off and not reaching 20 degree window. Turned low down a hair and it's running again as it should.

 
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Post by Jrhughes » Sun. Nov. 29, 2015 1:46 pm

Jrhughes wrote:
Jrhughes wrote:Aaaaaaand now for some reason the circulator has shut off. Temp is at 175. We adjusted the hi/low down to 150/170 just to be sure the feed would stop at hi limit and it did. Put it back to 160/180 and after a minute the circulator stopped and has not resumed in spite of call for heat.
Ok simple fix there. Hi/low was a little off and not reaching 20 degree window. Turned low down a hair and it's running again as it should.
I spoke too soon. It ran for a few minutes then shut off again. And it's not the pump. Multimeter is showing no power coming from triple aquastat to pump. Adjusting hi/low further apart didn't help. I'm starting to think the aquastat itself has an issue.

 
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Post by Jrhughes » Sun. Nov. 29, 2015 1:52 pm

I spoke too soon. It ran for a few minutes then shut off again. And it's not the pump. Multimeter is showing no power coming from triple aquastat to pump. Adjusting hi/low further apart didn't help. I'm starting to think the aquastat itself has an issue.[/quote]

Waited a bit and turned low all the way down to 135 and pump kicked on. High is still at 180. There seems to be some calibration problem or something. I should not have to set these so far apart should I?

 
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Post by waldo lemieux » Sun. Nov. 29, 2015 2:13 pm

JR,

Are you sure you have your new tstat hooked up correctly? ie. the heating side....


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