My KAA-4-1

lzaharis wrote:The L6006 has BX connected to it, white and blue leads to the two terminals on the L6006 and no thermostat wire.

Which two terminals? There are three, you are either using the top two or the bottom two.

lzaharis wrote:The way my K4 is set up each time it comes to a group of pins it shuts off the stoker on a heat call.

I am having a hard time wrapping my head around that one. It sounds like they have the stoker power going through the timer NC circuit. If that is the case, either the K4 is supposed to be wired dirrerently than every other stoker boiler ever made, or your installer does not know what he is doing.

Hello Leon,
Please explain for us your KAA-4 cycle/circuit that maintains the minimum idle fire.

Generally a repeat cycle timer is independent of TT and the triple-stat controls for idle or keep fire function. Some wiring schemes use a additional a-stat as a permissive so as to skip a timer cycle if boiler water temp is already too high and running stoker fire more would only cause potential over-heat harm.

Called plumbers, waiting,
10:05

Called Keystoker back, waiting for faxed wiring diagram for KAA-4-1
10:25

McGiever wrote:Hello Leon,
Please explain for us your KAA-4 cycle/circuit that maintains the minimum idle fire.

Generally a repeat cycle timer is independent of TT and the triple-stat controls for idle or keep fire function. Some wiring schemes use a additional a-stat as a permissive so as to skip a timer cycle if boiler water temp is already too high and running stoker fire more would only cause potential over-heat harm.

To be clear, when I say independent of TT and the triple-stat I mean not dependent to get signaled by...the wires can/do have some common point down stream though.

And a repeat cycle timer is a signal to run interval...not signal to stop interval.
Best to put some of those pins back in.

I received the KAA-4-1 wiring diagram by Fax a few minutes ago.

According to the schematic they furnished:

1. The circulator leads are wired to C1 and C2 according to their diagram-not the timer.

2. The leads T and T in the triple aquastat are tied into the L6006a and the thermostat.

SO I need to run to town and get thermostat wire, a new wire stripper and wire nuts to wire in the L6006A to the thermostat leads properly and wire the circulator to the C1 and C2 connections in the Hydrostat 3250 Plus.

What is your circulator wired to currently?

Thermostat wire is NOT proper for 120 volt duty for a circulator pump motor.

BX or MC Type or something with THHW/THHN conductors would proper Type.

Here's wiring diagram:

Hello Rob and McGiever,

I am coming back to this very late as I am late getting home.

The L6006 terminals are tied in with the thermostat wire as is described in the schematic NOW

The NRF25 is wired to the C1 and C2 terminals using the BX cable.

Before that it was wired directly into the timer with BX cable and was pumping heat but
the fire would die out.

The circulator now runs when the stoker runs and stops the stoker and the circulator when the boiler temperature is satisfied and the house is cold.

I have resistance and propane heaters to use and I have shut the boiler down and I am letting it cool.

It has to be something simple as Don said we are getting there and they are coming back on Tuesday.

I did notice the timer would not start the stoker unless their was heat call from the boiler and when the boiler was satisfied the L60006 would open and the pump would stop. That part of the wiring is right now I guess

You would not think a single zone dual fuel system would be so crazy- the old one worked fine with two separate controls-one for oil and the other for the hand fired boiler.

More to ponder I guess.

Hello Leon,
The cycle/outfire timer runs 24-7. Which, by the way is Normally Open.
Only way it get's skipped is if L4006 is opened due to High Temp, but even then, timer never stops running. Getting skipped is caused only by L4006 being *open* and stopping the *Burner* cycle to the stoker motor.

Hello Rob, Hello Mcgiever,

I did notice that the L6006 opened rather quickly and noisily-with a very noticable thud!!!,
when it stopped the stoker.

I became really concerned when the temp was above 200 on the Hydrostat display
when I came home late-that is why I pulled the power. I did not want to deal with
another steam event.

Even when I raised the temperature for a heat call on the thermostat the
circulator still did not run. BUT it runs only when the coal stoker and its fan were running-

In saying that: there was no hot water in the heating loop anywhere past the high copper line that leaves
the laundry room where the boiler is and I have had no issues with air locks since we started this adventure.

For the amount of time the circulator was running it should have pumped heat through the house and IT DID NOT (all the valves that should be open were open, the return loop valves were open, the B+G NRF25 circulator was on speed two. The copper going to the baseboard on the west side of the house where the heating loop begins was hot.

BUT the room that used to be my wife's home office is where the baseboard begins and the 12 foot of baseboard was not hot at all-I could see it if there was huge slug of air but there does not appear to be one.

The circulator was developing pressure through the return line and no vacuum and the bypass line was pushing heat back into the boiler with it fully open and the circulator operating.

BUT when I switched the power to oil and turned up the theromostat for a heat call the circulator did not energize SO.

SO this has to be the big clue somewhere in this puzzle.

Hopefully by Tuesday morning they will have this solved with Keystokers electrician
or before that when I call the local electrician on Monday.

Eventually I am going to invest in 2-8214A's and second power switch with a glass fuse and
be done with it and return the original Hydrostat 3250 plus shipped with the unit
for a new one and when I get it I will set it on the shelf.

The last thing I want to deal with is my wife and I being really sick.

The problems you have been blaming on the 3250 aquastat could be caused by your installers not wiring the controls properly.

Gentlemen,

I will be calling an electrician in the morning to see
what is going on with this thing as the (203 degrees) to me was too hot
and the units not dumping after the L6006 was wired into the thermostat
wires sends up red flags.



The other thing is the when I raised thermostats
temperature calling for heat it did not cause the
circulator to come on either when the unit
was "cold"-below 100 degrees SO..................................

The circulator was and "is" wired into the C1 and C2 terminals
on the hydrostat 3250 Plus. Why its not responding to a heat call
when its cold is a definite issue.

I never had a lick of trouble with my honeywell triple
aquastats or the two strap on aquastats that we used
for the had fed boiler that controlled the shutter motor
for the underfire and overfire air and the circulator for dumping
heat into the house loop in case of an overheating condition.

Gentlemen,

Out of genuinely being curious I decided to flip the control switch to Oil
and the circulator did not activate BUT the circulator runs when I
switch to coal.

I am wondering if the computer in this thing is fried???

I will be calling an electrician in the morning to see
what is going on with this thing as the (203 degrees temps of last night to me was too hot
and the units not dumping after the L6006 was wired into the thermostat
wires sends up red flags.

The other thing is the when I raised thermostats
temperature calling for heat it did not cause the
circulator to come on either when the unit
was "cold"-below 100 degrees SO..................................

The circulator was and "is" wired into the C1 and C2 terminals
on the hydrostat 3250 Plus. Why its not responding to a heat call
when its cold is a definite issue.

I never had a lick of trouble with my honeywell triple
aquastats or the two strap on aquastats that we used
for the had fed boiler that controlled the shutter motor
for the underfire and overfire air and the circulator for dumping
heat into the house loop in case of an overheating condition.

The more I look at this the more it makes the hydrolevel suspect to me anyway.

The aquastat doesn't know if you are burning coal or oil. It all has to do with the way it is wired in the timer and that switch. I suspect it has been messed up from day 1 and that is why your system overheated.

Get a short piece of wire and jump the TT terminals in the aquastat. If the circulator starts then you have your answer. If not, check the following:
Your control should be set to "A".

Hello Rob,

I have done as you instructed and the circulator is on "A" ( TT)

I have reset the low and high temps 140-180

I am mad at myself for missing this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I will report back when I know more.