Ford 801 Powermaster

Ironminer · Post by **Ironminer** » Fri. Mar. 06, 2015 9:33 pm

Beautiful Work!

Post by **Rob R.** » Sun. Jun. 26, 2016 9:55 am

First breakdown with the 801. Started it up and it blew out a tremendous cloud of blue smoke. Noticeable amount of oil running down the block . . . I'm thinking head gasket, but won't know until it gets in the shop.

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Sun. Jun. 26, 2016 10:42 am

Ouch, sorry to hear about that. Let us know what they find.

Sting · Post by **Sting** » Mon. Jun. 27, 2016 10:04 pm

Didi it simply backfire and blow the oil out of the air cleaner?

Kind Regards
Sting

gaw · Post by **gaw** » Mon. Jun. 27, 2016 11:16 pm

Rob R. wrote:First breakdown with the 801. Started it up and it blew out a tremendous cloud of blue smoke. Noticeable amount of oil running down the block . . . I'm thinking head gasket, but won't know until it gets in the shop.

Post by **Rob R.** » Tue. Jun. 28, 2016 5:52 am

Sting wrote:Didi it simply backfire and blow the oil out of the air cleaner?

Kind Regards
Sting

I don't think so, but that is simple to check. thanks.

Post by **Rob R.** » Sat. Jul. 09, 2016 7:13 am

Finally got a chance to clean things up and take a closer look. Turned out to be a very simple problem. The fitting on the bottom of the fuel tank is slowly leaking, and the fuel was dripping on the valve cover and down the exhaust manifold and engine block. The years of oil and grease being dissolved initially made it look like oil, and there is enough fuel getting inside the exhaust manifold to make it smoke a lot when the engine is started.

I was hoping that cycling the fuel shut off between off and on a few times would cure the leak, but no luck...it is leaking right through the threads on the shutoff. New one is $30 and in the mail.

cabinover · Post by **cabinover** » Sat. Jul. 09, 2016 7:25 am

Nice and inexpensive repair. I don't usually get that lucky when stuff breaks around here.

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Sat. Jul. 09, 2016 7:28 am

Glad to hear it wasn't an engine problem.

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Sat. Jul. 09, 2016 8:06 am

nice Rob

cArNaGe · Post by **cArNaGe** » Sat. Jul. 09, 2016 7:50 pm

Rob R. wrote: New one is $30 and in the mail.

The new one might leak also. I've changed mine twice and it still seeps gas through the threads.

Post by **Rob R.** » Sat. Jul. 09, 2016 8:12 pm

If it does I will bust out the JB weld.

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Sun. Jul. 10, 2016 6:45 am

Yep, that worked for my WD 45!

cabinover · Post by **cabinover** » Sun. Jul. 10, 2016 3:50 pm

freetown fred wrote:Yep, that worked for my WD 45!

Had one of them once, what a pulling machine compared to my neighbor's 9N. Hitched him to a rather large Pine tree one day to move and he couldn't steer. The WD just grunted a little and off it went, nose down.

jubileejerry · Post by **jubileejerry** » Sun. Jul. 10, 2016 11:29 pm

Rob R. wrote:Finally got a chance to clean things up and take a closer look. Turned out to be a very simple problem. The fitting on the bottom of the fuel tank is slowly leaking, and the fuel was dripping on the valve cover and down the exhaust manifold and engine block. The years of oil and grease being dissolved initially made it look like oil, and there is enough fuel getting inside the exhaust manifold to make it smoke a lot when the engine is started.

I was hoping that cycling the fuel shut off between off and on a few times would cure the leak, but no luck...it is leaking right through the threads on the shutoff. New one is $30 and in the mail.

There are two versions of that shut off, the original Zenith/Bendix one that costs a little more, and the $30 import copy. I stopped stocking that one because of poor quality and lots of leakers. Sometimes, though, you can fix an old leaker if you're careful. There's a little aluminum rivet in the body of the part that stops the shutoff screw from coming all the way out. A very sharp chisel and a tiny hammer can sometimes get the rivet out by getting under its head with the chisel and working around it with the little hammer. If you succeed in getting the rivet to move, and get it out, you can unscrew the shutoff and replace the o-ring in there. That will usually fix it for a long time. Just remember to put the little rivet back in. Jerry