Union Stove Works Beauty 9 B

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Sun. Dec. 04, 2016 8:48 pm

Something like this Pearl Glenwood 12 would make a nice room heater. It's a bit bigger, but you can run it slower and it will go longer between refuelings.

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Paul

coalfan · Post by **coalfan** » Sun. Dec. 04, 2016 8:51 pm

maybe a chubby jr.

joeq · Post by **joeq** » Sun. Dec. 04, 2016 9:10 pm

Sunny Boy wrote:Something like this Pearl Glenwood 12 would make a nice room heater. It's a bit bigger, but you can run it slower and it will go longer between refuelings.

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Paul

There were 6 stoves (this size) on RI C/L a few days ago, and 1 was a "restored" G12. The whole group was selling for $700. I called a few days after the ad was posted, and they were still available. A couple days later, the ad came down. I'm wondering if 1 of our members bought them?

johnnyvirgil · Post by **johnnyvirgil** » Sun. Dec. 04, 2016 9:41 pm

coalfan wrote:maybe a chubby jr.

The chubby jr. doesn't pass the wife test.

johnnyvirgil · Post by **johnnyvirgil** » Sun. Dec. 04, 2016 9:46 pm

Sunny Boy wrote:Something like this Pearl Glenwood 12 would make a nice room heater. It's a bit bigger, but you can run it slower and it will go longer between refuelings.

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Paul

Thanks, that's almost exactly what I'm looking for -- but aren't all of those the same basic construction? I'm surprised they don't all have integrity problems on the sheet metal part.

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Sun. Dec. 04, 2016 9:58 pm

I've never come across one in the years I've lived there, so if you can't locate a sheet metal shop in the Saratoga area that can roll a new barrel try contacting member wilsonswoodstoves 508-763-8941. He has new barrels made for many of his stove restorations.

Coincidently, my Glenwood range came from a stove shop in Saratoga.

Paul

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Sun. Dec. 04, 2016 10:01 pm

johnnyvirgil wrote:
Sunny Boy wrote:Something like this Pearl Glenwood 12 would make a nice room heater. It's a bit bigger, but you can run it slower and it will go longer between refuelings.

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Paul
Thanks, that's almost exactly what I'm looking for -- but aren't all of those the same basic construction? I'm surprised they don't all have integrity problems on the sheet metal part.

A lot has to do with quality of the materials it was built with. The Glenwoods are noted for being some of the best made. That's why there are so many still around.

Paul

johnnyvirgil · Post by **johnnyvirgil** » Mon. Dec. 05, 2016 9:20 am

Sunny Boy wrote:Something like this Pearl Glenwood 12 would make a nice room heater. It's a bit bigger, but you can run it slower and it will go longer between refuelings.

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Paul

He sent me some pics of the inside. Serviceable?

.JPEG | 148.4KB | image1.jpeg

joeq · Post by **joeq** » Mon. Dec. 05, 2016 10:17 am

A little used, but looks functional to me. Should clean up nice. The good thing is, (altho it's not a base burner), it will definitely heat your room, has some style, hold it's value, and the best part is, the stove looks complete. Not sure if the orange tinge is surface rust, or the color of the nickel, but if it's needs new plating, it'll cost you. If it were me, I'ld try to talk him down a couple few hundred.

johnnyvirgil · Post by **johnnyvirgil** » Mon. Dec. 05, 2016 10:23 am

joeq wrote:A little used, but looks functional to me. Should clean up nice. The good thing is, (altho it's not a base burner), it will definitely heat your room, has some style, hold it's value, and the best part is, the stove looks complete. Not sure if the orange tinge is surface rust, or the color of the nickel, but if it's needs new plating, it'll cost you. If it were me, I'ld try to talk him down a couple few hundred.

OK, dumb question: what makes this not a base burner?

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Mon. Dec. 05, 2016 10:31 am

johnnyvirgil wrote:
Sunny Boy wrote:Something like this Pearl Glenwood 12 would make a nice room heater. It's a bit bigger, but you can run it slower and it will go longer between refuelings.

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Paul
He sent me some pics of the inside. Serviceable?
image1.jpeg

Looks like the ring grate has a crack at the 7 o'clock position. Plus, the draw center grate has cracks through the middle webbing and it's sides are warped and bowed out. That will likely make it bind in the ring grate guides when it gets hot and not be able to dump ash and clinkers the way it should. Then the clinkers will start to fill up the bottom of the firepot and after about a week of running, the stove doesn't clear ash as well, or put out near as much heat as it should. Then you have to let it go out and dig out all those clinkers and start over. Been there and it only happens when you need the stove the most, not when it's convenient for you.

Bad grates are a major frustration - good functioning grates get rid of the frustration.

The good news is that both grates can be recast by Tomahawk Foundry. But figure that will add about $200.00 - $250.00 that you put into the stove. I'd mention it to the buyer and see if he'd come down on the price because of that.

That firepot liner needs some of that clinker scale buildup removed. It not only cuts down on fuel volume the stove can hold, it also makes the coal want to bridge, get hung-up, and not move down as easily during shaking.

Paul

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Mon. Dec. 05, 2016 10:35 am

johnnyvirgil wrote:
joeq wrote:A little used, but looks functional to me. Should clean up nice. The good thing is, (altho it's not a base burner), it will definitely heat your room, has some style, hold it's value, and the best part is, the stove looks complete. Not sure if the orange tinge is surface rust, or the color of the nickel, but if it's needs new plating, it'll cost you. If it were me, I'ld try to talk him down a couple few hundred.
OK, dumb question: what makes this not a base burner?

Remember, the only dumb questions are the ones never asked !

Base burners can divert the hot flue gases down into a separate chamber around, and/or, under the ash pan area to increase the heat radiating area of the stove, plus radiate that heat from a lower point to help increase convection. And, with the added flue length and resistance to gas flow, it also helps slow down the flue gases to give them more time to transfer that heat.

Paul

johnnyvirgil · Post by **johnnyvirgil** » Mon. Dec. 05, 2016 10:49 am

Thanks for the insight Paul. Draw center grates and ring grates -- I have some homework to do since that doesn't mean much to me yet. And the info on the baseburner makes sense. Thanks. since the only shaker I've had any experience with is the alternating "back and forth teeth" on the Vigilant, the way these round ones work is still a relative mystery to me. I'll pretend like I know what I'm talking about and mention that to the seller and see what he says. Thanks again for all of the advice!

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Mon. Dec. 05, 2016 10:57 am

johnnyvirgil wrote:Thanks for the insight Paul. Draw center grates and ring grates -- I have some homework to do since that doesn't mean much to me yet. And the info on the baseburner makes sense. Thanks. since the only shaker I've had any experience with is the alternating "back and forth teeth" on the Vigilant, the way these round ones work is still a relative mystery to me. I'll pretend like I know what I'm talking about and mention that to the seller and see what he says. Thanks again for all of the advice!

Draw center grates are fairly common on smaller coal stoves.

After a long burn - like overnight - you insert the shaker handle into the draw centers extension. Then pull out the draw center until it hits a stop so that it helps to dump the ash and any clinkers that may be starting to form while they are still relatively small. Push it back in fully then shake both grates together by a left-right, short, choppy movement of the draw center gate's handle extension.

Otherwise during the day, you just shake both grates together.

Paul

joeq · Post by **joeq** » Mon. Dec. 05, 2016 10:58 am

Good eye on the cracks Paul. Wasn't sure if they were manufactured that way or not. If you want to get by with them for the time being Johnny, I'll bet an experienced welder could tack them together. If in fact they will rotate and slide as Paul mentioned. And if you don't want to have them re-cast, I'll bet the "Wilson Mull" candy store will have something for you.