Design Temperature Help Needed
-
- Member
- Posts: 1442
- Joined: Sun. Oct. 14, 2012 7:52 pm
- Location: Mid Coast Maine
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: New Yoker WC90
- Baseburners & Antiques: Woods and Bishop Antique Pot Bellied Stove
- Coal Size/Type: Stove/Nut/Pea Anthracite
- Other Heating: Munchkin LP Boiler/Englander Pellet Stove/Perkins 4.108 Cogeneration diesel
Unfortunately I think you two are right. I was hoping to get out of it quick and easy, but that does not seem to be the case.
I could tap into another manifold that is only heating 480 square feet instead of 960 square feet, but I would have to find a special compression fitting that goes from 1/2 inch pex to the manifold . Since it is a Watts Brand, trying to find a dealer for that would be tough. However it MIGHT help some. It maybe worth trying to chase down (darn British threads).
I could tap into another manifold that is only heating 480 square feet instead of 960 square feet, but I would have to find a special compression fitting that goes from 1/2 inch pex to the manifold . Since it is a Watts Brand, trying to find a dealer for that would be tough. However it MIGHT help some. It maybe worth trying to chase down (darn British threads).
-
- Member
- Posts: 6515
- Joined: Sun. Feb. 10, 2008 3:48 pm
- Location: Cape Cod, MA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: want AA130
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine BS#4, Harman MKII, Hitzer 503,...
- Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Stove
Or you could just throw a tstat and circulator in the mud room loop...
So poured concrete floor for the mud room also...
It needs more energy because of the greater exposure ratio...
it really needs its own controls rather than relying on the other existing zone control...
So poured concrete floor for the mud room also...
It needs more energy because of the greater exposure ratio...
it really needs its own controls rather than relying on the other existing zone control...
- hotblast1357
- Member
- Posts: 5657
- Joined: Mon. Mar. 10, 2014 10:06 pm
- Location: Peasleeville NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
- Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace
So is your whole place slab on grade?
-
- Member
- Posts: 1442
- Joined: Sun. Oct. 14, 2012 7:52 pm
- Location: Mid Coast Maine
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: New Yoker WC90
- Baseburners & Antiques: Woods and Bishop Antique Pot Bellied Stove
- Coal Size/Type: Stove/Nut/Pea Anthracite
- Other Heating: Munchkin LP Boiler/Englander Pellet Stove/Perkins 4.108 Cogeneration diesel
Yes; best mistake I ever made!hotblast1357 wrote:So is your whole place slab on grade?
Being 19 and getting married, I thought "instead of building a house right now, why don't I build a garage and live out of that first?" I never did convert the house into a garage, and instead just kept building on. I was careful with the roof lines so they did not look odd, but kept adding on, and kept adding radiant heat as I went.
It is a very efficient way to heat a home.
-
- Member
- Posts: 1442
- Joined: Sun. Oct. 14, 2012 7:52 pm
- Location: Mid Coast Maine
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: New Yoker WC90
- Baseburners & Antiques: Woods and Bishop Antique Pot Bellied Stove
- Coal Size/Type: Stove/Nut/Pea Anthracite
- Other Heating: Munchkin LP Boiler/Englander Pellet Stove/Perkins 4.108 Cogeneration diesel
I don't think that would work. When the thermostat in the great room stopped the call for heat, it would shut off the zone valve just before the supply manifold so no matter what the thermostat in the mudroom called for, it would not get any flow.CapeCoaler wrote:Or you could just throw a tstat and circulator in the mud room loop...
If you tapped any where between those manifold zone valves and the mixing valve, you would confuse the computer as it sensed how hot the water was returning from the return manifolds for my other three zones.
The only other option would be to tap into the main boiler loop, but then you would be running 150 degree water through your floor and dragging down the water temp in the main boiler loop constantly. This could ultimately starve the mixing valve of enough hot water, or cause the boiler to run excessively.
-
- Member
- Posts: 1442
- Joined: Sun. Oct. 14, 2012 7:52 pm
- Location: Mid Coast Maine
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: New Yoker WC90
- Baseburners & Antiques: Woods and Bishop Antique Pot Bellied Stove
- Coal Size/Type: Stove/Nut/Pea Anthracite
- Other Heating: Munchkin LP Boiler/Englander Pellet Stove/Perkins 4.108 Cogeneration diesel
I am thinking of installing that WC-90 New Yorker Coal/Wood boiler in a single car garage attached to the mud room. (this is different than the other room I was talking about earlier). We want to turn this 13 x 22 room into a Rec Room for the kids but have the boiler in there. That would heat that room by itself, maybe even heat the mudroom, and send hot water to the main boiler loop too to offset the cost of propane. The room (the potential rec room) has a lot of sun exposure as it faces south.
- coaledsweat
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 13761
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
- Location: Guilford, Connecticut
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
- Coal Size/Type: Pea
Pretty sure there is a temp limit on water through concrete and 150° is way over it.
- Sting
- Member
- Posts: 2983
- Joined: Mon. Feb. 25, 2008 4:24 pm
- Location: Lower Fox Valley = Wisconsin
- Other Heating: OBSO Lennox Pulse "Air Scorcher" burning NG
no problemNoSmoke wrote:
The only other option would be to tap into the main boiler loop, but then you would be running 150 degree water through your floor and dragging down the water temp in the main boiler loop constantly. This could ultimately starve the mixing valve of enough hot water, or cause the boiler to run excessively.
build a simple non electric temperature reducing loop for this load
-
- Member
- Posts: 6515
- Joined: Sun. Feb. 10, 2008 3:48 pm
- Location: Cape Cod, MA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: want AA130
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine BS#4, Harman MKII, Hitzer 503,...
- Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Stove
Make sure you get the proper range for your tempering valve...
And two thermometer gauges...
So it looks cool...
And two thermometer gauges...
So it looks cool...
-
- Member
- Posts: 6515
- Joined: Sun. Feb. 10, 2008 3:48 pm
- Location: Cape Cod, MA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: want AA130
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine BS#4, Harman MKII, Hitzer 503,...
- Coal Size/Type: Pea/Nut/Stove
Add one of these if you wish...
At least plan for inclusion later in your design...
http://www.watts.com/pages/_products_details.asp?pid=6841
At least plan for inclusion later in your design...
http://www.watts.com/pages/_products_details.asp?pid=6841
-
- Member
- Posts: 1442
- Joined: Sun. Oct. 14, 2012 7:52 pm
- Location: Mid Coast Maine
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: New Yoker WC90
- Baseburners & Antiques: Woods and Bishop Antique Pot Bellied Stove
- Coal Size/Type: Stove/Nut/Pea Anthracite
- Other Heating: Munchkin LP Boiler/Englander Pellet Stove/Perkins 4.108 Cogeneration diesel
There is a limit, but it is 170 degrees.coaledsweat wrote:Pretty sure there is a temp limit on water through concrete and 150° is way over it.
What you really do not want to do is go over on, is floor temperature. You do not want that over 85 degrees.
- coaledsweat
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 13761
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
- Location: Guilford, Connecticut
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
- Coal Size/Type: Pea
I knew there was a limit, just not sure about on what.
- coalmaster
- Member
- Posts: 127
- Joined: Thu. Dec. 17, 2015 9:47 pm
- Location: slate belt
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: hitzer 50-93 2800sqft
- Coal Size/Type: nut anthricite
just curious, how many R's did you put under the slab?