Design Temperature Help Needed

 
NoSmoke
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Post by NoSmoke » Wed. Dec. 07, 2016 9:20 am

Unfortunately I think you two are right. I was hoping to get out of it quick and easy, but that does not seem to be the case.

I could tap into another manifold that is only heating 480 square feet instead of 960 square feet, but I would have to find a special compression fitting that goes from 1/2 inch pex to the manifold . Since it is a Watts Brand, trying to find a dealer for that would be tough. However it MIGHT help some. It maybe worth trying to chase down (darn British threads).


 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Wed. Dec. 07, 2016 9:30 am

Or you could just throw a tstat and circulator in the mud room loop...
So poured concrete floor for the mud room also...
It needs more energy because of the greater exposure ratio...
it really needs its own controls rather than relying on the other existing zone control...

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Wed. Dec. 07, 2016 9:54 am

So is your whole place slab on grade?

 
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Post by NoSmoke » Wed. Dec. 07, 2016 4:19 pm

hotblast1357 wrote:So is your whole place slab on grade?
Yes; best mistake I ever made!

Being 19 and getting married, I thought "instead of building a house right now, why don't I build a garage and live out of that first?" I never did convert the house into a garage, and instead just kept building on. I was careful with the roof lines so they did not look odd, but kept adding on, and kept adding radiant heat as I went.

It is a very efficient way to heat a home.

 
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Post by NoSmoke » Wed. Dec. 07, 2016 4:26 pm

CapeCoaler wrote:Or you could just throw a tstat and circulator in the mud room loop...
I don't think that would work. When the thermostat in the great room stopped the call for heat, it would shut off the zone valve just before the supply manifold so no matter what the thermostat in the mudroom called for, it would not get any flow.

If you tapped any where between those manifold zone valves and the mixing valve, you would confuse the computer as it sensed how hot the water was returning from the return manifolds for my other three zones.

The only other option would be to tap into the main boiler loop, but then you would be running 150 degree water through your floor and dragging down the water temp in the main boiler loop constantly. This could ultimately starve the mixing valve of enough hot water, or cause the boiler to run excessively.

 
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Post by NoSmoke » Wed. Dec. 07, 2016 4:31 pm

I am thinking of installing that WC-90 New Yorker Coal/Wood boiler in a single car garage attached to the mud room. (this is different than the other room I was talking about earlier). We want to turn this 13 x 22 room into a Rec Room for the kids but have the boiler in there. That would heat that room by itself, maybe even heat the mudroom, and send hot water to the main boiler loop too to offset the cost of propane. The room (the potential rec room) has a lot of sun exposure as it faces south.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Wed. Dec. 07, 2016 5:42 pm

Pretty sure there is a temp limit on water through concrete and 150° is way over it.


 
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Post by Sting » Wed. Dec. 07, 2016 8:23 pm

NoSmoke wrote:
The only other option would be to tap into the main boiler loop, but then you would be running 150 degree water through your floor and dragging down the water temp in the main boiler loop constantly. This could ultimately starve the mixing valve of enough hot water, or cause the boiler to run excessively.
no problem
build a simple non electric temperature reducing loop for this load

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Wed. Dec. 07, 2016 11:03 pm

Make sure you get the proper range for your tempering valve...
And two thermometer gauges...
So it looks cool... ;)

 
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Post by Rob R. » Thu. Dec. 08, 2016 5:51 am

Sting wrote: no problem
build a simple non electric temperature reducing loop for this load

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Thu. Dec. 08, 2016 8:09 am

Add one of these if you wish...
At least plan for inclusion later in your design...
http://www.watts.com/pages/_products_details.asp?pid=6841

 
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Post by NoSmoke » Thu. Dec. 08, 2016 5:15 pm

coaledsweat wrote:Pretty sure there is a temp limit on water through concrete and 150° is way over it.
There is a limit, but it is 170 degrees.

What you really do not want to do is go over on, is floor temperature. You do not want that over 85 degrees.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Thu. Dec. 08, 2016 5:25 pm

I knew there was a limit, just not sure about on what. :oops:

 
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Post by coalmaster » Thu. Dec. 08, 2016 5:59 pm

just curious, how many R's did you put under the slab?

 
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Post by Olllotj » Thu. Dec. 08, 2016 6:09 pm

I did not know that you could run water temp that high in a slab


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