Problems Getting Good Heat Out of My Hitzer 30-95

I have a 30-95 Hitzer that I'm pretty happy with but it seems like I'm not getting enough heat out of it sometimes. I was told to shake it a couple times a day which used to work. Lately it seems like I have to shake it longer to see a few glowing coals drop into the tray. I cleaned the whole thing out last week as the grate got something jammed in it and found a couple huge hard lumps of coal ash. I started it up and it burned great, then it started burning not so hot after a couple days. Any thoughts? Also, how do you keep a new top hatch gasket to stick well? I followed the directions on the tube of cement but it's coming loose on the hinge end. Any input will be appreciated.

Its kind of common, especially when your learning to burn, to start having trouble the 3rd or 4th day after starting a fresh fire. It is usually, but not always. because your ashed up and need to shake more. You want a good glow under the grate before you stop shaking. The chunks are likely clinkers. I'll leave the gasket to someone that is familiar with the Hitzer door.

loriells I have the 3095 16 years .Check the forum how to make a poker .Or just get a three eigth steel bar from tractor supply .Bend the front 3 inches so you know have an .l el Poke the front an sides of stove then shake hard .Thatwill drop a lot of ash .I poke about every fourth day . jack .P M me if I can help more . The hitzer is a dandy stove .

+1 on poking. Try a tube of Permatex Black Silicone adhesive/sealant---works well--apply right at tending & leave set till next tending (12 hrs) Ya keepin your hopper full every 12 hrs? Cleaned horizontal pipes lately? Are ya using a BARO--if so close it off with tin foil.

The 30-95 is a dandy of a little stove. It will crank out the heat if asked. However, if you're pushing it, she'll make clinkers.

After 16 years of having a 30-95, probably not anything Den034071 can't tell you about that stove.

My experience with my 3095 is, you have to poke the sides every few days before you shake it. The design of the stove is great, but with the hopper smaller than the coal bed, the weight of the coal pushes directly under the hopper missing the sides when shaking. You will also get a lot of built up ash on the back, this is more difficult to get to. I wait until the coal is burnt down below the hopper, then drag my poker horizontally to move it. I have a baro. on mine, and have since I installed it 15 years ago. I tried the foil, but coal is so draft dependent, any changes, change how the stove is burning. To much draft, you will pull heat out of the stove. One other thing I ran across when cleaning my stove, I put the fire brick back in, and left a little air space on front brick at the side. Air is like water, it takes the path of least resistance, I could not get heat out my stove.

T, I wouldn't be to concerned with ash in the rear--sides YES. To let that hopper empty leaves a big chunk of time for BTU's to get back where they belong. As long as I can open the bi-metallic flap & see a clear path, you're good. If your saying the ash blocks it--push your ash pan in farther.

I have to agree with Fred. I wouldn't be too concerned about behind the hopper. With the sloped back wall, ash will collect. But you're not really gaining much by cleaning. Air still goes around the hopper, and out. And the coal coming out of the hopper rolls forward. That's been my experience with the 30-95.

Definitely poke, fluff, and drag at the sides as mentioned. The same with front if needed.

One more thing: I beveled the top of the front fire brick, so that ash doesn't build.