Our Glenwood 109

 
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McGiever
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Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
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Post by McGiever » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 6:57 am

:idea: Sounds like the only 'positive' pressure device in this equation is your vaccum/sweeper discharge...and that is about only device w/ enough power to desperse ash as widely as you describe...into cupboards and the like. :idea:


 
KingCoal
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Location: Elkhart county, IN.
Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
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Post by KingCoal » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 8:15 am

if I may..................

there have been comments about how much you guys like to dig, flick, scratch and scrape at the under side of your fires to rid them of ALL ash.

well, are you doing that with the ash door open ? do you have the nozzle of a bagged and prefiltered shop or ash vac. in the corner of the door while doing this ? do you later shake the grates with the door open and no vac ? do you use an ash shovel to scrape, pile and remove ash from the pit and into the pan that doesn't make it into the pan on it's own ?

if you do these things with out a vac, have you ever noticed the plume of fly ash that is pulled up the stove body and launched into the convection current ?

you might want to try this instead.

make a 30" long poker of 1/4-3/8" steel rod, put the stove in direct darft, fully open the mpd or pin shut the Baro, open the primaries fully. let stove run up 3-5 mins. open the load door and shoot the poker down thru the fire to the grates, all around the edge and 6 or so palces in the center. close the load door. this will collapse any bridging from above, no need for all the under fire workout.

open as little an opening or door as possible that allows access to the draw center grate socket. install handle and give about 10 very fast and narrow jerks side to side followed by about the same number of fast, hard, full travel strokes. leave the primaries full open and let the stove continue to run up another couple mins.

open load door and add all the coal you expect to need for the next burn cycle being sure to leave an open spot of burning coals. leave the draft and primaries open till the blues are dancing. readjust as usual.

never dig ash out of the pit by shovel. use a shop or ash vac with at least a dry wall bag in it for that.

if you follow this stuff you will reduce your ash and dust problems by 90+ %.

i learned this the hard way :( :oops:

steve

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 8:52 am

Sunny Boy wrote:Have you made any changes in how you deal with shaking, grate poking, and taking out the ashes ?
Paul, no changes to the tending schedule.
McGiever wrote::idea: Sounds like the only 'positive' pressure device in this equation is your vaccum/sweeper discharge...and that is about only device w/ enough power to desperse ash as widely as you describe...into cupboards and the like. :idea:
I assume you mean the fan. Sadly I need it to move the air around my house.
KingCoal wrote:there have been comments about how much you guys like to dig, flick, scratch and scrape at the under side of your fires to rid them of ALL ash. Do you use an ash shovel to scrape, pile and remove ash from the pit and into the pan that doesn't make it into the pan on it's own ? Never dig ash out of the pit by shovel. use a shop or ash vac with at least a dry wall bag in it for that.
Steve, I pull the draw center and dig the ash out with the stove in direct draft. I don't shake all that much, not much need for it. I am guilty of cleaning out the ash pit with a shovel though. I pull the check damper while doing this. I don't see any dust while doing this, but that doesn't mean there isn't any.

Please understand, I am a neat freak. So when I say there is dust throughout the house, I am talking an extremely light film. So light that you barely notice it, but I do. The wife loves living with me... :D . The clogged filters are really puzzling me. They get worse throughout the season. The filter is located about 3 feet from the flue, so I'm thinking it may be contributing to it. I'm glad that I do have the filter though!

All good points, thanks men!

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 9:08 am

The ash pan was rusted out when I got my stove, so I used to shovel the ash out, too.

Like you, I'd put the stove in direct draft and let it build up a strong draft through the ash drawer door. No matter how careful I was some fly ash would travel thanks to the strong convection currents around that end of the stove. The problem wasn't so much shoveling the ashes out, it was trying to put warm, or hot, ashes into a bucket without making dust. That's just about impossible to do, even with a cold stove and ashes.

Finally got tired of that and made an ash pan. Now, no more dust from putting the ashes into a bucket.

Can an ash pan be made to fit your 109 ?

Paul

 
KingCoal
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Location: Elkhart county, IN.
Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
Other Heating: none

Post by KingCoal » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 9:24 am

what what what ? no ash pan ?

holy cats, the only ash I vac. out is the stuff that doesn't make it in the pan, not the whole pit. :o

forgot to mention earlier that I also vac. the body and the hearth once a day too. really helps.

 
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Wren
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Post by Wren » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 11:14 am

KingCoal wrote:if I may..................

there have been comments about how much you guys like to dig, flick, scratch and scrape at the under side of your fires to rid them of ALL ash.

well, are you doing that with the ash door open ? do you have the nozzle of a bagged and prefiltered shop or ash vac. in the corner of the door while doing this ? do you later shake the grates with the door open and no vac ? do you use an ash shovel to scrape, pile and remove ash from the pit and into the pan that doesn't make it into the pan on it's own ?

if you do these things with out a vac, have you ever noticed the plume of fly ash that is pulled up the stove body and launched into the convection current ?

you might want to try this instead.

make a 30" long poker of 1/4-3/8" steel rod, put the stove in direct darft, fully open the mpd or pin shut the Baro, open the primaries fully. let stove run up 3-5 mins. open the load door and shoot the poker down thru the fire to the grates, all around the edge and 6 or so palces in the center. close the load door. this will collapse any bridging from above, no need for all the under fire workout.

open as little an opening or door as possible that allows access to the draw center grate socket. install handle and give about 10 very fast and narrow jerks side to side followed by about the same number of fast, hard, full travel strokes. leave the primaries full open and let the stove continue to run up another couple mins.

open load door and add all the coal you expect to need for the next burn cycle being sure to leave an open spot of burning coals. leave the draft and primaries open till the blues are dancing. readjust as usual.

never dig ash out of the pit by shovel. use a shop or ash vac with at least a dry wall bag in it for that.

if you follow this stuff you will reduce your ash and dust problems by 90+ %.

i learned this the hard way :( :oops:

steve
a good post to run off and hang on the wall near the stove

 
KingCoal
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Posts: 4837
Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
Location: Elkhart county, IN.
Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
Other Heating: none

Post by KingCoal » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 11:56 am

thanks Wren but, that particular practice is more directed to the stoves that have a retractable center grate like tcalo's and others.

the really neat thing is that you won't have any of those issues nor need for all those precautions with your 116 :D :D

i really like your little Tiger, can we see a full pic of that control on the back and what it's connected to please ?

steve


 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 1:19 pm

Steve, you think the ash in the bottom area is cool enough to use a shop vac on? If it is I may need to try that instead of shoveling the excess ash out.

So I disconnected the Glenwood and proceeded to remove the flue. I think I may have found the source of my dust problem. My Glenwood flue comes right off the top of the rear pipe, then goes into two 45 degree connectors and up through the attic and roof. The two 45 degree connectors had tons of fly ash in it. The rest of the flue was quite clogged as well. Amazing, it's a straight vertical run and still collects fly ash. I have a feeling that the fly ash was falling out of the flue seams when I was tending the stove and since it is so light the fan above the stove picked it up. I moved my Chubby into place. Being a shorter stove than the Glenwood I couldn't really get the pipes to work right. Also, I had to move the stove a bit further away from the wall to give me the 36" clearance (more like 30"...shhhh) which forced me to turn the 45's into 90's. I scrapped the whole idea and put the Glenwood back in place, haha. I forgot how much I love the Glenwood. It's such an easy stove to use. The Chubby is a great stove as well! I was torn on which one to use, I guess that's a good problem to have. I cleaned the flue pipe and hooked everything back up. I removed the baro, another source of dust I think. The baro door had dust accumulated all around it so I'm sure some of it made it's way out. Trial and error! I felt so naked without the stove burning last night and all morning. My oil heat kept kicking on about every 30 minutes. Back up and running!

I may need to perform a mid season cleaning on my flue pipe. I should know in a few days if cleaning the flue pipe and removing the baro helped at all.
Last edited by tcalo on Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 1:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Sunny Boy
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Post by Sunny Boy » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 1:31 pm

What about an ash pan, Tom ?

Freddy makes some really nice ones. And I hear that they don't clog up vacuum cleaner filters. ;)

Paul

 
KingCoal
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Location: Elkhart county, IN.
Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
Other Heating: none

Post by KingCoal » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 1:33 pm

i do my ash vac'ing in the evening right when I get home and before I do any other tending.

i open the ash door, go dump the pan and start up the vac. i'm using a ShopVac 6.25 hp QSP Pro 18 gal. with a dry wall bag and a prefilter over the canister filter. this is a big vac, tons of suction and a 2" I.D. hose.

i look pretty careful to be sure there isn't anything hot laying on top and pick 'em out if there is. that's pretty rare.

i'll be getting a reusable dry wall bag soon. 2 of the big paper ones are $22.00 at Lowes and you can't empty them out.

a pan is a good thing to have esp. if it's big enough to catch pretty much everything. my stove was poorly designed in that area.

 
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Post by scalabro » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 4:42 pm

You don't have an ash pan Tommy?????

I find that hard to believe :shock:

You should not need a vacuum at all ( If you have an ash pan :lol: ) ...get the stove ripping, go into DD, close both primary & secondary and open the internal check, then open the ashpan door and shake the pan a bit, wait one second for the check to suck in the dust around and on the edges and handle of the pan and remove the cold ashes dust free.

Glenwood provided a built in ash vac for you via the check damper :idea:

Easy peasy :)

 
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Post by Lightning » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 5:34 pm

Ash falling out of a stove pipe seam? Maybe. Foil tape would fix that. Dust can't get out of a baro from what I've seen, unless you lose chimney draft.

 
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Wren
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Post by Wren » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 5:48 pm

Funny, I almost took a photo of the damper this morning when I was hooking ash out of the elbow but I decided to spare everyone my odd fascination - and here someone actually wants to see. The actual damper has a hole in the middle and no fit on the sides so that when it's shut it really isn't unless I leave the ash in. Only 17 days and a good inch of darker ash than falls in the pan.
With the Tiger I get bridging if I fill the pot almost full. Only 14 inches high. But can I make a poker and stab the coal and go around the outside of the pot too? No. Because I think the coal would not allow itself to be moved. I think I need a slice maybe that I have read about in posts. Going to search for a photo. A lot of what you said about digging and flicking and making a hideous mess seemed familiar.
My neighbour is over seventy and gets a glint in his eye : his father had something like the Tiger in the barn with a cone and the chicks went under for heat. He says not bigger. His father only slept six hours so he said it must have stayed warm. His wife looks at me reprovingly as she wants no wood, coal or chicks anywhere near her house.

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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 6:27 pm

Scott - I do have an ash pan.

Lightning - I didn't think ash would fall from the pipe seams and baro since the chimney should be pulling a negative draft. It's just a guess.

 
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McGiever
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Fri. Jan. 20, 2017 8:42 pm

McGiever wrote:
:idea: Sounds like the only 'positive' pressure device in this equation is your vacuum/sweeper discharge...and that is about only device w/ enough power to desperse ash as widely as you describe...into cupboards and the like. :idea:

I assume you mean the fan. Sadly I need it to move the air around my house.

No, I mean what I say...vacuum discharge is very positive pressure and unless filters are totaly uncompromised will disperse fine ash profusely.

On aside note: Never use/allow a shop vac containing a drywall bag to pickup anything moist or wet like even damp leaves or grass clippings...drywall/paper bag will easily rupture and leak due to wetted weakened paper bag.


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