KAA-2 KA2 Keystoker Feed Adjustment With Pics! Direct Vent

[quote
1. With the feed motor disconnected, you will see the threaded "long bolt" It should be turned all the way so the gap between the bar UNDER the slide is the SMALLEST on the side CLOSEST to the fire. It will stop when it hits the end cap nut. That is maximum "slop" in the arm, which is the LOWEST feed rate. IIRC, this is completely counter-clockwise][/quote]

I have a question about the threaded rod? The end farthest from the push bar looks like your pic., with the cap nut and squareish washer and nut. Is the other end of the rod supposed to be threaded into something? Mine spins freely, so I am not sure how it makes any adjustment. None of the manuals that I have found, including the ones that came with the boiler, have the correct info. for the KAA2. I have not taken apart the stoker yet, I know all of the screws are going to break, but I think I should go thru it before I install it back on the boiler.

Tryingitout wrote:[quote
1. With the feed motor disconnected, you will see the threaded "long bolt" It should be turned all the way so the gap between the bar UNDER the slide is the SMALLEST on the side CLOSEST to the fire. It will stop when it hits the end cap nut. That is maximum "slop" in the arm, which is the LOWEST feed rate. IIRC, this is completely counter-clockwise]

I have a question about the threaded rod? The end farthest from the push bar looks like your pic., with the cap nut and squareish washer and nut. Is the other end of the rod supposed to be threaded into something? Mine spins freely, so I am not sure how it makes any adjustment. None of the manuals that I have found, including the ones that came with the boiler, have the correct info. for the KAA2. I have not taken apart the stoker yet, I know all of the screws are going to break, but I think I should go thru it before I install it back on the boiler.[/quote]

The inside end of the rod has a cap nut on it that stops the rod once the adjustment bar moves against it, so it doesn't come off the end of the rod.

It will turn freely UNTIL you hit this limit (with the cam removed, which could interfere if you do it while the motor is installed) Counter Clockwise until it stops, with motor removed, will set it at LOWEST feed rate.

If you're pulling your stoker feed unit, first empty your hopper completely, remove the top screws inside the hopper (with the big washers) and lift the hopper off the unit. Be careful not to bend the bottom of it or you might have some troubles getting everything to match back up.

Then follow the pics, they should get you there

Ask specific questions if you aren't sure

Stoker is already off, I am just finishing up the install. I have to reinstall the fire door, and the last jacket, then hook up the controls. It still is not clicking in my head how the rod works, I guess I should plug it into an outlet and see how it moves, that would help. (I believe it is 120volt)

Tryingitout wrote:It still is not clicking in my head how the rod works

The rod or the feed of coal?

The inside capped end of the rod sits against the inside edge of a hollow cavity, there is a movable bar in that same cavity that is threaded onto that same rod.

When you tighten the rod (CW), it pushes the bar into the opening, where the plastic cam (offset round) inserts. This adjustment makes the slop between the movable bar and the cam less, eventually adjusting to the point it acts as if connected to the offset cam. This gives the maximum movement AWAY FROM THE FIRE end of the stoker.

In turn, MORE COAL falls into the recessed gap on the other side (Top) of the sliding feed unit. This is due to the larger stroke that opens a larger gap. The forward stroke is the same. The push bar unit always goes in and stops at the same place.

Conversely, when the adjustment rod is loosest (max CCW), the adjustable bar will move clear to the end of the opening where the cam sits. The cam might not even touch it, or barely, on the outward/reload stroke.

This means the cam will rotate for some portion of a turn without contacting anything, thereby not actually moving the slide feed. This is the slop I mention.

Make sense?

Take a look back at the pics of the underside with the adjustable bar and read over it while looking to see if it helps

The action makes sense, but I am not sure mine is threaded into anything. I am wondering if the rod might be striped of threads. I will recheck when I get home from work.

Tryingitout wrote:The action makes sense, but I am not sure mine is threaded into anything. I am wondering if the rod might be striped of threads. I will recheck when I get home from work.

That would be a problem

On the upside, it's just a basic rod. I'll bet you just need to turn it CCW until it stops, which depending where it is could be quite a few turns.

Well, good news the rod is working correctly, I just did not look closely enough. I do however need to take it apart, the side to side movement needs to be adjusted. I plan to reassemble using stainless steel bolts and screws, for future tear downs. (not for the adjustment screws)

Tryingitout wrote:Well, good news the rod is working correctly, I just did not look closely enough. I do however need to take it apart, the side to side movement needs to be adjusted. I plan to reassemble using stainless steel bolts and screws, for future tear downs. (not for the adjustment screws)

That is good news! See how it makes sense once you look at it? That's why I made this thread, I couldn't picture it from a description.

Are you SURE the side to side needs adjusted? Did you check your gasket-material-pieces? The help it glide and keep coal and junk out of the sides. They also appear to snug things up a bit.

Someone just ordered replacement NYLON screws and cam to replace their melted or damaged ones. I think the screws were $0.60/ea ?

For the money its less costly to order the bag of nylon screws
from Mcmaster Carr. The only thing is you would have
21 screws left to use but they would always be handy as
long as you have a boiler spare parts box hint, hint.

lzaharis wrote:For the money its less costly to order the bag of nylon screws
from Mcmaster Carr. The only thing is you would have
21 screws left to use but they would always be handy as
long as you have a boiler spare parts box hint, hint.

Gift sets? LOL.

Good suggestion. Do you know the size?

I am not sure about the gasket material, but both sets of screws are all the way in. Won't hurt to tear it down, and go thru it while the stoker is off the boiler. Plus here in Mich. we are in the 40's this week. Sunday I let the 3095 go out, and fired up the new propane furnace I installed, so now I can get some run time on that while it is warmer. Like to make sure as a backup it is not going to have problems. Hoping this weekend to get the boiler fired up for the first time.

CoalisCoolxWarm wrote:

lzaharis wrote:For the money its less costly to order the bag of nylon screws
from Mcmaster Carr. The only thing is you would have
21 screws left to use but they would always be handy as
long as you have a boiler spare parts box hint, hint.

Gift sets? LOL.

Good suggestion. Do you know the size?

===================================================

10/24 * 1/2" left side and 10/24*34" right side. NO, DO NOT CUT them to make them shorter if you buy just one bag of 3/4" length screws, it does not help it makes it worse !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The plastic used is too soft for cutting with a saw anyway and no I did not try doing that it.

I have a couple more question if someone has time? I pulled out the push bar and motor, no gasket material on either side. What size should I use? Does it just go in the middle space between the screw sets?

I also have a wiring question. I rewired all the contolls, the previous owner had something strange going on with it. I can only assume that it is correct, because I can't test to make sure things will run when they are supposed to. The water in the boiler is cold, so it is signaling the stoker feed, and combustion fan run. When I engage the thermostat transformer, it does not power the circ. pump terminals, I assume because the water is to cold! Am I on the right track???

You are correct. Once the low limit setting has been reached, a heat call will energize C1.

I am so close to getting this thing fired up. But I want to make sure everything works as it is supposed to. I need to get new nylon screws, the gasket material between them.