EFM DF520 Install

Post by **StokerDon** » Sun. Apr. 02, 2017 7:47 pm

myers007 wrote:I just checked with a meter and yes I have power across 1 and 2 this is odd I know I tested and this did run.

I guess I will pull it from my board and check inside to see of something got loose.

Sounds like the clock motor got stuck. It's new timer time. If it stopped running when it it was on a timer cycle, it would run the boiler/stoker on the HI limit. If you have no HI limit wired in, you would have big problems.

That's a shame, It looked really good with it's new paint job.

-Don

Post by **Rob R.** » Mon. Apr. 03, 2017 6:34 am

A faulty timer can cause a lot of frustration.

If you are shopping for a replacement, an Intermatic C8835 or C8865 would work well.

https://www.zoro.com/intermatic-timer-cycle-1-pole-c8835/i/G2505492/?q=c8835

lzaharis · Post by **lzaharis** » Mon. Apr. 03, 2017 9:29 am

I agree with that having dealt with timer motor failure.
Having a spare timer motor for the Intermatic 30 Minute
Timer is good piece of mind and can be purchased from
most electrical supply retailers.
My replacement motor was less than $30.00 with tax.

Be sure sure to pencil or paint in marker line on the yellow
clock face and the metal mounting plate it is attached to
and it is easier to check to see if it is moving.

myers007 · Post by **myers007** » Mon. Apr. 03, 2017 8:10 pm

Rob R. wrote:A faulty timer can cause a lot of frustration.

If you are shopping for a replacement, an Intermatic C8835 or C8865 would work well.

https://www.zoro.com/intermatic-timer-cycle-1-pole-c8835/i/G2505492/?q=c8835

Thanks Rob you must have been reading my mind I was going ask the forum if anyone new of replacement once I got home.

I am checking on these units looks like they use tripper tabs?

Post by **Rob R.** » Mon. Apr. 03, 2017 8:25 pm

Yes. You add to remove tabs to adjust the on time. Very simple.

myers007 · Post by **myers007** » Mon. Apr. 03, 2017 8:37 pm

Rob R. wrote:Yes. You add to remove tabs to adjust the on time. Very simple.

Cool this should work ....Thanks

myers007 · Post by **myers007** » Tue. Apr. 04, 2017 8:03 pm

I was looking at my setup to see how I was going to wire up the Intermec timer I was going to buy and I thought of an idea.

I could use the TT on the Hydostat since I am using the TT on my Taco zone controller and I could get by on a much simpler timer has anyone done a setup like it?

Mark

Post by **Rob R.** » Tue. Apr. 04, 2017 8:19 pm

What kind of timer did you have in mind?

If you want to cycle the stoker via the TT terminals, you will not be able to use the fuel-saving features of the Hydrostat.

myers007 · Post by **myers007** » Tue. Apr. 04, 2017 8:52 pm

Rob R. wrote:If you want to cycle the stoker via the TT terminals, you will not be able to use the fuel-saving features of the Hydrostat.

Yes I did not think of that it would mess of the fuel saving features of the Hydostat your are right....

Post by **Rob R.** » Tue. Apr. 04, 2017 9:05 pm

I have installed 5 EFMs, and have used 5 different timers. I think the Intermatic is the simplest, and reasonably priced.

I like the 60 minute one, that way you can run a longer cycle in the winter (if you want).

myers007 · Post by **myers007** » Wed. Apr. 19, 2017 10:01 pm

I just tested my counter for feed rate. I need to make a bracket but this test and it seems to work as I wanted to.

Here is some pictures from a short video of my test.

.PNG | 157KB | Snapshot 1 (4-19-2017 9-46 PM).png

This is the proxy that reads the count.

.PNG | 182.5KB | Snapshot 2 (4-19-2017 9-47 PM).png

The counter that reads signal from the proxy and counts the feed rate.

I will see if I can upload the video.

myers007 · Post by **myers007** » Wed. Apr. 19, 2017 10:06 pm

Here is a short video of it in operation.

.WMV | 13.4MB | Counter.wmv

Post by **Rob R.** » Thu. Apr. 20, 2017 6:13 am

Neat!

myers007 · Post by **myers007** » Mon. Apr. 24, 2017 8:50 pm

I am adding a new high limit Aquastat L4006A and since I need to add a well to the boiler I was thinking of moving the Hydrostat to the front left and put the L4006A on the back.

Having the Hydrostat in front this should work and temp should not be that much different right?

The reason why would do this is I am using the remote setup on the Hydrostat and this would give me a little extra slack on my wire for the Hydrostat.

Thanks

Post by **Rob R.** » Mon. Apr. 24, 2017 9:11 pm

If you are using the tankless coil, the Hydrostat should be located in the back.