Northeastern Pennsylvania Community Forums, Home of the Anthracite and Bituminous Coal Forums

Hi All,

I'm going to be putting in a new chimney for my Clayton 1600 . Trying to make sure I get it right the first time I'd like to get the advise of you guys that have done this. The stove is in the basement, so I will have to go through the foundation, the height will be 24 ft and I'm thinking 6" flue size. So what would you guys recommend to make sure I have plenty of draft to burn anthracite ?

Also are there any good online suppliers for the flue pipe and connectors you would recommend ?

Thanks in advance.

George

I reccomend a masonry chimney, with 8/8 or 8" round tile liner. Use fireclay/alumina mortar between the tiles, and a type S mortar or equivilant (lower lime) between the block.

Berlin

Thanks for the reply.

I was thinking of a stainless steel double or triple wall flue. I just don't have the money for a masonry chimney.

George

I think you'll find that you may be able to save a considerable amount of money by putting up a mansonry chimney. depending on height, you and a friend should be able to do it yourself in about one weekend.

A clay flue is the best. You'll replace the SST a few times.
The clay liner will last a lifetime.

Have under a grand in my flu including materials and labor. All i had to do was did the hole and have the footer ready. Is about 30 feet tall made with 8x8 clay

The process to lay up a masonry chimney is fairly simple. A hole has to be dug for the footing. The concrete footing poured.
The chimney block are each set in mortar, and leveled with a sprit [fluid] level. Each chimney block is 8" high, so every 3-4 block, you set in a clay liner, stacked on the lower one.
As you get to where you will insert your chimney flue, there are chimney block with a pre-cut half hole, so you use a pair of these, and the clay liners come with pre-cut holes. You can cut the clay liner with a masonry cut-off wheel used on a 4.5" hand-held grinder, they cut the liner like butter.

Once you reach the upper portions of the chimney, either scaffolding will be needed or a big tractor with a front loader to stand in.

I put up my chimney by myself, with my front loader tractor. The last few blocks were a challenge, but I got the job done.
And I'm not a young guy

Greg L

Thanks for all the advise guys. As easy as you guys make it sound putting up a masonry chimney is not something I would tackle.

George

I concur with lsfarm. longevity as well as $90-$!40 for a 3 ft section od SS can be twice the cost and no where near forever lasting.

check the price of the thimble kit and rain cap for the ss it adds up

pose a question for a price on craigslist for a masonary one?

I used the selkirk metalbestos 6" double s.s in my ranch house 19' ( 4-4', 1-3', T, T support, 6'' through wall, top cap, 2 fire shields and a roof termination flashing) cost me $1700 through ventingpipe.com with shipping. This is my first year and you see signs of rust outside from the rain. The good part is you can touch the pipe where it originates in the basement when she is on high fire, can't be much more than 100 deg. For my installation it was space saving, but (I SORT OF WISH I WOULD OF GONE MASONARY, ONLY TIME WILL TELL)

Thanks for the info and link AA130FIREMAN. I found the pipe at Northern Tool for $79.99 per 3 ft length which is about $50.00 less than anyone else I've found. As for the masonry chimney I remember 15 years ago when I built my house we had to go with a prefab chimney due to cost, if I remember correctly it was half or one third the price. Don't get me wrong I would have really liked the look of a real chimney but were I live it they are very expensive.

Again thanks for the help guys

George in Connecticut

The 9017 is galvanized on the outside, the stainless cost a bit more. I don't see them carrying and rest that you would need, elbow, t, caps. "This product requires: 2" air clearance to combustibles for all diameters", so you can't run that straight through a wall. You have to use all Duravent pieces and installed by a licensed professional to honor the warranty of 25 years.

mozz wrote:The 9017 is galvanized on the outside, the stainless cost a bit more. I don't see them carrying and rest that you would need, elbow, t, caps. "This product requires: 2" air clearance to combustibles for all diameters", so you can't run that straight through a wall. You have to use all Duravent pieces and installed by a licensed professional to honor the warranty of 25 years.

By the time you pay for that, It'll cost the same for a masonry chimney. Nothing fancy, just clay liners and cement blocks. You can always finish it later, depending on your budget.

Hey George
I wanted to do masonry but due to existing truss layout it will not work. I picked up Selkirk metal best all SS that has the 304 ss inner and the 430 ss outer. Everything else I found was all 430 inner and outer.

Charles in CT as well

that 304 won't last very long